ILLUMINATED

My mum loves telling the story about how, when she was pregnant with me, she would head down to the beach and dig a hole at the waterline, then let it pool up with water to take the weight off her and cool down. She believes that’s when my obsession with the ocean began.

The town I grew up in had plenty of slabby reefs, perfect for bodyboarding. That played some part in it, too. I had a bit of an interest in taking happy snaps after sessions but it wasn’t until I was recovering from a busted knee that I spent a few dollars on a decent camera rig to help with the healing process. It hurt missing