Local Taiwan

By LeeAnn Ko

Thinking About Taiwan? 

You could grab one of those touristy, commercial travel guides. Or, you could dive into Taiwan with your new local bestie, LeeAnn (that's me), who's about to give you the actual lowdown on this amazing island, minus the tourist fluff and with a healthy dose of Taipei-approved snark.

Forget those "Top 10" lists written by a travel writer who visited for a weekend. I live here. I know where to find the truly epic food (and how to avoid the stuff that'll make your wallet weep), the sights that'll genuinely make your jaw drop (not just the ones everyone and their selfie stick flocks to), and the cultural quirks that make Taiwan, well, Taiwan.

Inside, the real deal on:

• Taipei: Beyond the night markets (though we'll hit those too, obviously), I'm spilling all my local secrets.
• Jiufen & Keelung: Lanterns, legends, and a night market that'll make you question all your life choices (in the best way).
• Taroko Gorge & Hualien: Mother Nature showing off, plus the essential info on what's actually doable after recent shake-ups.
• Taichung: More than just good weather, I promise! We're talking bubble tea origins and art in unexpected places.
• Tainan: Prepare for a history lesson you won't fall asleep in, and a food scene that's unapologetically sweet.
• Kaohsiung & Cijin: Your southern escape plan, complete with port city charm, quirky islands, and a celebrity cat. Yes, really.

• Kenting: Sun, sand, and a side of "seriously?!" – I'll tell you what the glossy brochures don't.

   

This isn't just about where to go; it's about how to go. I'll arm you with essential survival tips, from navigating the (occasionally baffling) transport to understanding why you should never pick up that random red envelope on the street. I'll warn you which "must-see" is actually a "maybe-miss" and clue you in on which hole-in-the-wall is chef's-kiss.

Swap those dramatic headlines (are they threatening to invade us again?!) for delicious food stalls. Experience Taiwan like you've got a savvy local whispering in your ear. You kind of do. In the non-creepiest way possible. 

Let's do this. 

 

• Language: English
• Publisher: Taiwan Guide Books
• Release date: Oct 20, 2025
• ISBN: 9798231861163

Book preview

Get Ready to Fall in Love with Taiwan

I’m LeeAnn, proudly Taiwanese, and I am genuinely honored and excited that you’re thinking about visiting my amazing island home.

Consider me your new local bestie, the one who's about to cut through all that chatter and tell you exactly why Taiwan should be rocketing to the very top of your must-visit list. Seriously, you’re in for a treat. My friends and I often joke about how we have to plan our weekends around which new cafe to try or which mountain trail to conquer next – that's the kind of drama we're into. The welcoming vibe here is something we're really proud of; it's not just a tourist slogan, it's how we live. You'll find that people are genuinely happy to share what makes this place special.

Let's Talk About the Noise Next Door (Yeah, That Noise)

Okay, so let's get this out of the way. You might have heard some... let’s call them 'dramatic headlines' or perhaps some 'neighborly rumbles' coming from across the Taiwan Strait. You know, the kind of stuff that makes your mom suddenly text you asking if you're absolutely sure it's safe to visit. I get it; those headlines can sound pretty intense, almost like something out of a spy movie.

But here’s the scoop from someone who actually lives here: most of us are far too busy queuing for the latest viral bubble tea creation or planning our next weekend escape to a hot spring to pay all that bluster too much mind. Life here is wonderfully vibrant, incredibly safe, and, well, pretty darn normal. People leave their scooters unlocked, cafes are buzzing till late, and the biggest daily concern for many is whether to have beef noodles or stinky tofu for dinner. They can try their best to paint our island with all sorts of alarmist colors, but the only real drama I'm usually involved in is deciding which night market has the juiciest fried chicken cutlet. And trust me, that’s a delicious, high-stakes kind of drama you’ll want to be a part of.

There's a lot of talk out there, and sometimes it feels like they're trying to make Taiwan sound like a risky bet for travelers. But the reality on the ground is a place where you can wander through ancient temples in the morning and explore ultra-modern art districts in the afternoon, all while feeling completely at ease. So, let’s just file those 'warnings' under 'things mainland China says to get attention' (you can Google the term China’s final warning) and move on to all the fantastic reasons you should be packing your bags for Taiwan. Shall we?

So, Why Taiwan? Oh, Let Me Count the Ways! (The Real Deal)

Now that we've cleared the air, let's get to the good stuff. What makes Taiwan so special? Where do I even begin?

Culture That's Actually Cool (And Super Polite!)

Forget any preconceived notions you might have about 'Chinese culture' from rushed, impersonal tour groups you might have experienced elsewhere. Here in Taiwan, we’ve lovingly preserved the heart and soul of centuries of tradition, but we’ve given it our own unique, modern, and incredibly friendly spin. Think of it as getting the director's cut of culture – all the depth, beauty, and history, but presented with a warmth that makes you feel instantly welcome.

You'll see it in our stunning temples, which aren't just ancient relics; they're vibrant, living centers of faith, humming with centuries of prayers and the fragrant smoke of incense. We're talking about places where you can witness traditional ceremonies and feel a genuine connection to a spiritual heritage that’s deeply woven into the fabric of daily life. And our festivals! From the breathtaking beauty of the Lantern Festival, where thousands of glowing lanterns float into the night sky, to the energetic dragon boat races, our calendar is packed with celebrations that are both spectacular and deeply meaningful, often blending ancient agricultural roots with new creative expressions.

We’re also one of the few places that still proudly uses traditional Chinese characters in our writing. It might seem like a small detail, but it’s a beautiful link to a rich literary and artistic past. You’ll see exquisite calligraphy everywhere, and if you’re lucky, you might even catch a traditional Taiwanese opera performance, a captivating art form that’s very much alive and kicking. Many of these traditional arts and customs are, frankly, better preserved and more accessible here than anywhere else.

But here’s the real kicker, the part that I think makes Taiwan truly stand out: we do all of this with a level of politeness and genuine friendliness that will probably surprise you. We’ve kept the rich cultural heritage, but we’ve thankfully skipped the, shall we say, 'occasional' brusqueness or impatience you might encounter in some other places. People here are, by and large, incredibly kind and considerate. We smile a lot, we’ll go out of our way to help you if you look lost, and we generally believe in treating everyone with respect. It’s often said that Taiwanese people value harmony and face, meaning we try to ensure interactions are smooth and no one is made to feel embarrassed. This isn't just an act for tourists; it's a deeply ingrained part of our social fabric, likely a wonderful blend resulting from our unique history, which includes influences from ancient Chinese traditions, a period of Japanese connection that also emphasized politeness, and our own democratic journey. So, you get all the fascinating culture, but with the volume turned down and the politeness dialled way, way up!

Prepare Your Stomach – It's Going to Be EPIC!

Okay, real talk: if you consider yourself a foodie, even remotely, then Taiwan is basically your mothership calling you home. I am not exaggerating even a tiny bit. We Taiwanese live and breathe food; it’s a national obsession, a constant topic of conversation, and the source of endless joy. One travel writer even dubbed Tainan, a city in our south, the true capital of street food, and they weren't wrong!

Imagine this: bustling night markets, a uniquely Taiwanese phenomenon, buzzing under a canopy of twinkling lights and colorful signs. Hundreds of stalls are crammed together, each wafting irresistible aromas of something delicious being cooked right before your eyes. This is where you’ll find xiaochi, or small eats – an incredible array of snacks and mini-meals perfect for grazing your way through the evening. We’re talking savory oyster omelets, or as we call them, o-ah-jian, with that perfect chewy-crispy texture. Then there’s our unofficial national dish, beef noodle soup, or niu-rou-mian – rich, aromatic broth, tender slow-cooked beef, and perfectly springy noodles that will make you question every other noodle soup you’ve ever had.

And yes, let's not forget the global sensation that is bubble tea, or zhen-zhu-nai-cha! We invented it. You're welcome, world!. You truly haven't lived until you've had the real deal here, with countless variations from classic milk tea with chewy tapioca pearls to exotic fruit-infused concoctions. Don't even get me started on the comforting simplicity of lu-rou-fan (braised pork rice), a humble bowl of rice topped with unctuously rich, slow-cooked minced pork. Or the infamous chou-doufu (stinky tofu) – be brave, the aroma is... distinctive, but the taste is surprisingly amazing, especially when it's crispy fried and served with pickled cabbage! And for souvenirs (or just for yourself, no judgment), you absolutely must try our pineapple cakes, feng-li-su – crumbly, buttery pastry filled with sweet and tangy pineapple jam.

This passion for food is evident everywhere, from the meticulous care local vendors put into their dishes, often using fresh, local ingredients and time-honored recipes, to the sheer innovation you'll see. Our culinary scene is constantly evolving, with night markets adapting to include international flavors while still cherishing the traditional favorites. It’s not just street food either; we have an incredible range of restaurants, from beloved, generations-old family-run spots serving up home-style cooking to sleek, modern establishments earning Michelin stars. The accessibility and affordability of truly amazing food here mean that every meal can be an adventure, without breaking the bank.

Come On Over, We're Actually Really Nice!

Seriously, though, beyond all the incredible sights, sounds, and tastes, I truly believe it’s the people here who will make your trip to Taiwan unforgettable. We're generally a friendly and welcoming bunch – always ready with a smile, a helping hand if you look a bit lost deciphering a map, and quite possibly an impromptu invitation to share some tea or a local snack. This isn't just an observation from a local; visitors often comment on the remarkable friendliness and welcoming atmosphere they experience here. We take a lot of pride in our culture and genuinely love sharing it with people from all over the world. This desire to share, combined with our cultural emphasis on respect and kindness, naturally makes us want to be good hosts.

Don't worry too much about language barriers either. While Mandarin is our main language, many people, especially younger folks in cities like Taipei and Kaohsiung, speak some English, and the level has been improving a lot over the years. Plus, any attempt you make to say a few words in Mandarin – even if it's just xie xie (thank you) or ni hao (hello) – will be met with appreciation and probably an even bigger smile. We know our language can be tricky!

Your Awesome Taiwan Adventure Starts Here!

So, what do you say? Are you ready to swap those dramatic headlines for delicious food stalls? Ready to experience a culture that’s as warm and inviting as our subtropical weather? I hope so!

This guide is going to be packed with all my local secrets – the absolute best eats (from a local who knows!), the coolest hidden spots that don't always make it into the mainstream guides, tips on how to navigate our cities like a pro, and maybe even a few essential phrases to impress the friendly auntie at your favorite neighborhood breakfast shop.

Get ready to explore, to taste, to discover, and most importantly, to fall in love with Taiwan. I know I do, every single day.

Let’s go explore!

TLDR FAQ

1. Alright, Let's Talk Basics: Getting You Sorted for Taiwan!

Hey there, future Taiwan adventurer! LeeAnn here, your friendly (and occasionally sarcastic) Taipei local. So, you're coming to my awesome island? Great choice! But before you dive headfirst into the night markets and get lost in a sea of bubble tea, there's some, shall we say, essential stuff you need to know. Think of this as your cheat sheet to looking slightly less like a bewildered tourist. We’ll cover getting in, getting money, staying online (because, priorities), zipping around, not offending anyone with your tipping habits (or lack thereof), and how much this is all gonna cost you. Ready? Let’s do this. Getting these fundamentals right from the start will make your trip smoother, letting you focus on the fun stuff, like figuring out just how many soup dumplings one person can realistically eat.

2. Visas: Your Golden Ticket (or Not-So-Golden Hassle)

First things first, can you even get in? For a lot of you lucky ducks from places like Western Europe, the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, and Korea, you can just waltz in visa-free for up to 90 days for tourism. Score! Now, here’s the deal, and listen closely because this is important: visa rules are like Taipei weather – they can change! So, always, always, always double-check the official Bureau of Consular Affairs (BOCA – remember that name, they’re the gatekeepers) website before you even think about booking flights or accommodation.  https://www.boca.gov.tw/ Seriously, don't just trust your mate who came two years ago, or that blog post from 2019. That’s a recipe for a very sad chat with an immigration officer, or more likely, airline check-in agent.

No matter where you're from, if you're coming in visa-free, you'll definitely need a passport that’s valid for at least six months from the date you plan to enter Taiwan. It’s a standard rule, and they do check. Though, my American and Japanese friends, you get a bit of a perk here – your passport just needs to be valid for your intended period of stay, no extra six months needed, which is handy. And everyone, and I mean everyone, needs proof you're not planning to become a permanent fixture without permission. That means a confirmed return air or sea ticket, or an onward ticket to your next destination with a confirmed seat, is an absolute must. They want to know you have a plan to leave, not just a vague hope. Oh, and it probably goes without saying, but try not to be on any international criminal watchlists, yeah? That tends to complicate entry.

Now, if you're not on that coveted visa-exempt list, or you don't qualify for an eVisa, or if your plans involve staying longer than your visa-free period allows, or you're thinking of working (legally, I hope!), or coming to study, then you’ve got to go through the traditional visa application process. This means filling out forms on the BOCA website, printing them, and submitting them along with photos, proof of sufficient funds, your travel itinerary, and whatever else they ask for, to an ROC (that’s Republic of China, which is our official name) overseas mission – basically, our embassies or representative offices abroad. How long does this take? Well, if everything is straightforward, it could be around 3 to 5 working days once they have all your documents. However, during busy periods or if your application is considered 'special' (which could mean anything, really), it can take significantly longer, so don't leave it to the last minute.

A special little nod to my British and Canadian friends: you guys get your 90 days visa-free, which is great, but you also have the rather unique option to apply to extend that stay for another 90 days once you're already in Taiwan! This gives you a potential total of up to 180 days to soak it all in, provided you're not here for unapproved study or work. You’ll need to head to a BOCA office (there are several across Taiwan) and apply for this extension. Make sure you do this within the 30 days leading up to the expiry of your initial 90-day stay, but realistically, aim to get it done at least 5 working days before your time is up to avoid any stress. You'll need to fill out an application form, provide two passport-sized photos (white background, taken recently!), show your valid British or Canadian passport (still needs at least three months validity), and an extension purpose statement – basically, why you want to stay longer (tourism is a good reason). The good news is there's no fee for this particular extension, which is a nice bonus. Just don't try to push your luck by asking for a second extension; it’s a one-time deal.

The key takeaway here is that while Taiwan is very welcoming, getting the entry requirements right is non-negotiable. That onward ticket isn't just a suggestion; it's often a deal-breaker if you don't have it. And for those nationalities with extra conditions, like proof of funds or accommodation, these are checked. It’s all about being prepared so your adventure starts off right!

3. Money, Honey: All About the New Taiwan Dollar (NTD)

Alright, let's talk about the fun stuff: money! Our cash is called the New Taiwan Dollar, or NTD for short. Outside of Taiwan you’ll also see it written as TWD, which is the official symbol. When we locals are chatting, we often just say 'kuai' (like 'buck') in Chinese or NT in English when we're talking about amounts. So, what will you be handling? You'll be dealing with coins in denominations of NT$1, NT$5, NT$10, and NT$50. For banknotes, the ones you'll see most often are the red NT$100 note, the brownish NT$500 note, and the blue NT$1000 note. Now, there are also NT$200 (greenish) and NT$2000 (purplish) notes in existence, but honestly, you’ll rarely encounter them. They’re the Taiwanese two-dollar bills.

So, how do you get your hands on this magical NTD? When you land at the airport – whether it's Taoyuan International (TPE), Taipei Songshan (TSA), or Kaohsiung (KHH) – you'll see currency exchange counters right there in the terminal, usually before you even exit into the main arrivals hall. The exchange rates among the different bank counters at the airport are generally pretty similar, so don't waste precious vacation time stressing about finding the absolute 'best' one by a minuscule fraction. It's super convenient for getting some cash immediately for your taxi or airport MRT and your first bubble tea. You can also change money at banks in the city, like Bank of Taiwan or other major local banks. However, remember that banks in Taiwan have rather traditional hours – typically 9 am to 3:30 pm, Monday to Friday, and they're closed on weekends and public holidays. Some travel guides scream never exchange money at the airport! but for Taiwan, it's generally fine for that initial amount you need; the difference in rates compared to city banks isn't usually scandalous, and the convenience factor right after a long flight is high.

Your trusty ATM card is your other best friend for accessing NTD. ATMs are everywhere here – seriously. You'll find them in banks (obviously), inside almost every 7-Eleven and FamilyMart (which are on practically every corner), and even in many MRT (metro) stations. Most ATMs in Taiwan accept international cards; look for the Visa, Mastercard, Cirrus, or Plus logos on the machine. Bank of Taiwan ATMs are often recommended because they might not charge an ATM operator fee for withdrawals with foreign cards. However, and this is a big 'however,' your bank back home is very likely to charge you fees for using an ATM overseas – these could be foreign transaction fees (a percentage of the amount) and/or a flat international withdrawal fee. It's a really good idea to check with your bank about these fees before you leave home so you're not unpleasantly surprised. If a local Taiwanese ATM does charge a fee (other than Bank of Taiwan, for example), it's commonly around NT$100 to NT$150 per transaction.

Here’s a golden pro tip that can save you a decent chunk of change over your trip: if the ATM gives you the option to be charged in your home currency (e.g., USD, EUR) or in New Taiwan Dollars (NTD), always choose to be charged in NTD. This is called Dynamic Currency Conversion (DCC), and if you choose your home currency, the ATM applies its own, usually less favorable, exchange rate. If you choose NTD, your home bank will do the conversion at a much better rate. As for how much you can pull out at once, withdrawal limits per transaction are often around NT$20,000 from most ATMs, though your home bank might also have its own daily limit.

One last thing on the topic of cash: don't roll up to immigration looking like you're about to buy a small island (or like you're trying to smuggle a fortune). If you're carrying more than NT$100,000 in our local cash, or over USD 10,000 (or the equivalent in other foreign currencies), or more than 20,000 Chinese Yuan (RMB), you must declare it to customs when you enter or leave Taiwan. Just keep your walking-around money reasonable, okay? While Taiwan is increasingly card-friendly in larger establishments, having a good amount of cash on hand is still essential for those amazing night market snacks, small local eateries, and many taxis.

4. Stay Connected (Without Selling a Kidney for Data)

Let's be honest, in this day and age, being without internet is like being without a vital organ, right? How else will you post those envy-inducing food pics or navigate to that hidden temple? So, getting your phone connected is probably pretty high on your to-do list. Good news: it’s generally quite easy and relatively affordable here in Taiwan. You've got a few main options: a physical SIM card, an eSIM if your