PROJECTS AND PRACTICAL TECHNIQUES YOU SHOULD APPLY: A Comprehensive Handbook for Successful Project Execution and Skill Development (2024)

By ALAN CARR

"Projects and Practical Techniques You Should Apply" serves as your go-to guide for mastering essential skills and techniques across various project domains. Whether you're a novice looking to build foundational skills or an experienced practitioner seeking to expand your expertise, this book provides invaluable insights, step-by-step instructio

• Language: English
• Publisher: ALAN CARR
• Release date: Feb 9, 2024
• ISBN: 9783988318138

ALAN CARR

Alan Carr, hailing from Austin, Texas, is a skilled woodworker and author dedicated to sharing his expertise with woodworking enthusiasts worldwide. With a passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail, Carr's work reflects his commitment to excellence in every project he undertakes.

Book preview

Oliver Howard

PROJECTS AND PRACTICAL TECHNIQUES YOU SHOULD APPLY

Copyright © 2023 by Oliver Howard

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise without written permission from the publisher. It is illegal to copy this book, post it to a website, or distribute it by any other means without permission.

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Contents

1. Introduction

2. How to build a side chair

3. How to make a rush seat

4. How to make a shaker rocking chair

5. How to make a tape seat

6. How to make a meeting bench

7. How to make a trestle table

8. How to make a drop leaf table

9. How to make a candle stand

10. How to make a step stool

11. How to make a wall clock

12. How to make a pie safe

13. How to make an adjustable shelving

14. How to make tin panel doors

15. How to make a pegboard

16. How to make a drawer

17. How to mount drawers & drawer stops

18. How to design a desk

19. How to build a carcase

20. How to build a frame and panel desk

21. How to design tables

22. How to design legs and rails

23. How to make tops

24. Conclusion

1

Introduction

Before embarking on any woodworking tasks, it is crucial to establish sound safety practices. This applies whether you are using woodworking machinery or hand tools and especially when working with common finishes. Always prioritize safety by wearing protective gear like safety glasses and following hearing protection guidelines when operating woodworking tools. Additionally, it’s imperative to carefully read and adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations for woodworking power tools, as well as follow all safety guidelines.

This book comprises five separate manuscripts. In the first book, we will initially delve into safety tips and gaining a solid understanding of wood fundamentals, including distinguishing between softwood and hardwood. We will then explore techniques for cutting lumber from logs, lumber cutting methods, wood selection criteria, and the benefits of plain-sawn lumber versus quarter-sawn lumber. Subsequently, you will learn about wood properties, how to work with grain patterns, and how to determine the optimal cutting direction. You will also discover wood identification techniques, including microscopic examination, preparation of wood samples for microscopic viewing, and the use of wood identification keys. Additionally, we will cover portable lumber mills, the procedures for converting logs into boards, lumber selection, and the process of ordering lumber by the board foot, considering species, quantity, size, grade, seasoning, and surfacing. We will also explore creating and utilizing a cutting list, grading lumber, the four fundamental steps lumber graders take in their assessments, hardwood and softwood grading, as well as various wood defects. Further, you will learn how to prepare lumber, joint boards, plane stock, rip cupped stock into narrower boards, and handle concave and convex surfaces. Moving forward, we will delve into veneering techniques, popular veneer types and sizes, and the application of veneer. Lastly, we will discuss working with plywood, plywood grading, concealing plywood edges, applying self-adhesive edge banding, and adding molding. We will also explore various hardboard options, such as plywood, particleboard, fiberboard, and medium-density fiberboard. You will gain insights into wood drying and storage, employing a resistance-type moisture meter, estimating wood movement, and understanding drying times for different wood types, including hardwoods and softwoods. Finally, we will cover wood storage methods, including building pipe storage racks, constructing cantilevered storage racks, securing lumber and plywood racks to unfinished walls, creating freestanding plywood racks, building vertical plywood racks, wrapping dowels with rope, ceiling dowel storage, crafting mobile base racks, fashioning combination workbenches and short-cut bins, and stacking stock between wall studs. As a culmination, you will have the opportunity to explore 21 wood species in our directory, meticulously selected to cater to the needs and interests of cabinetmakers.

In the second book, we will commence by discussing essential woodworking tools and fundamental safety precautions. Next, we will delve into preparing your workspace for fire safety, electrical safety measures, and acquiring necessary personal safety gear and first aid tools. Subsequently, we will cover planning your shop layout, including electrical power layout planning, appropriate lighting arrangements, floor, wall, and ceiling preparations, and heating and ventilation system setup. You will also learn how to prepare your workbench, vises, accessories, bench dogs, and hold downs. Following that, we will explore indispensable shop accessories and equipment like portable generators, bench grinders, and dust collectors. Wood and tool storage techniques will be discussed, and we will conclude by addressing the basic requirements for work tables, sawhorses, work supports, and extension tables.

In the third book, we will commence with the construction of various tables, including an End Table, Dining Table, Open Pedestal Table, Card Table, and Tea Cart. Additionally, we will build a Breakfast Table, Gate-Leg Table, Sofa Table Complement, and explore the creation of a Convertible Table. You will also learn how to make a Coffee Table with a Glass-top, a Trestle Table, and a Modest Coffee Table.

In the fourth book, we will provide an overview of outdoor furniture, including the construction of a Patio table and a Joynt stool. We will also discuss outdoor chairs, such as the Adirondack chair, curved chair, and lounge chair. Further, we will cover making a porch swing, glider base, park bench, and tree bench. Lastly, we will guide you through crafting a serving trolley, garden arbor, bookcase, and blanket chest.

In the fifth book, we will delve into crafting various furniture pieces, including a side chair, rush seat, Shaker rocking chair, tape seat, and meeting bench. We will also explore table construction, focusing on creating a trestle table, drop-leaf table, candle stand, and step stool. Additionally, you will learn how to make a wall clock, pie safe, adjustable shelving, panel door, and pegboard. The final chapters will cover constructing drawers, desks, frames, legs, rails, and tops. If you’re as eager and prepared as I am, let’s begin this woodworking journey together.

2

How to build a side chair

More than a century ahead of contemporary advertisers, the Shakers took pride in promoting their products to a market of nonbelievers, who nonetheless had an appetite for high quality furniture. One of their early catalogs proudly declared the virtues of Shaker chairs, emphasizing their durability, simplicity, and lightness. The Shakers were able to substantiate these claims due to their exceptional craftsmanship.

Remarkably, Shakermade chairs enjoyed robust sales, demonstrating that their business acumen matched their religious devotion. The Shakers had astutely identified chairs as the ideal product for the market. Chairs require relatively modest amounts of materials compared to larger pieces of furniture, making them a cost-effective choice. Additionally, many chair models could be produced quickly, and their compact, lightweight design facilitated storage and transportation. Furthermore, chairs were a staple in most households, with many buyers needing multiple pieces. These factors collectively contributed to the prosperity of their chairmaking enterprise.

In the upcoming chapters, we will provide detailed, step-by-step instructions for constructing three classic Shaker chairs. The Enfield side chair, despite its outwardly simple design, demands precise craftsmanship and intricate joinery. Its legs, rails, and stretchers are expertly turned on a lathe, and they are interconnected using mortise and tenon joints. The chair’s back features slats that require steam bending, and we will also delve into the traditional technique of weaving rush for the seat.

The rocking chair shares many similarities with the Enfield, incorporating turned components and mortise and tenon joinery. However, the rocker distinguishes itself with its ergonomically curved rear legs and the rockers themselves, attached to the legs through dowel reinforced bridle joints. This chair is named after the upstate New York community where its prototypes were first crafted.

The spindlebacked meetinghouse bench, originally intended for religious gatherings, has found versatile contemporary applications. These chairs, some of which are still preserved today, embody the Shaker philosophy: Build as though you were to live for a thousand years.

The Enfield side chair’s most notable feature is its backward slant of 98 degrees, designed to conform comfortably to the average user’s anatomy without requiring steam bent back posts. However, this slant presents challenges in executing the joinery, as most joints in this chair are assembled at compound angles. It is advisable to refer to the side and top views as you construct the chair, using these angles to guide your drilling of the round mortises.

Due to the trapezoidal shape of the seat, the front legs are spaced farther apart than the rear ones. Additionally, the rear legs angle outward by 2 degrees from bottom to top. Consequently, the back stretchers, seat rail, and slats progressively increase in length toward the top of the chair. To assist in sizing and preparing the chair legs, mark essential dimensions and the mortise locations on a custom-made story pole crafted from plywood. This story pole spans the length of both front and rear legs and delineates the placement of stretcher, rail, and slat mortises. The markings on this jig serve as a guide for cutting the leg blanks to the correct length and outlining mortises on them.

To avoid weakening the legs, the mortises for the front and back stretchers or rails are positioned ½ inch lower than the mortises for the side ones. Be sure to label the story pole for future chairmaking endeavors, as it will prove invaluable.

Preparing Legs, Rails, and Stretchers:

1. Routing Slat Mortises in Rear Legs

Utilize a story pole to outline slat mortises on the rear leg blanks, centering them on the inside face of each blank.

Secure one blank among bench dogs.

Install a ¼ inch mortising bit in a router with an edge guide.

Center the bit over the mortise outline and adjust the edge guide against the stock, using the second leg blank as support.

Make multiple passes, increasing the cutting depth with each pass until the mortise reaches a depth of 5/8 inch.

Repeat this process for the remaining mortises in both blanks and square the cavities with a chisel.

2. Turning Rear Legs

Place a rear leg blank between lathe centers, position the tool rest close to the workpiece without touching it, and start the lathe.

Using a roughing gouge, cautiously engage the blank until the cutting edge begins removing waste.

Continue along the length of the blank, forming a cylinder with the tool bevel rubbing and pointing in the cutting direction.

3. Crafting Rear Leg Finials

Start by cutting the cove separating the finial from the cylindrical leg section.

Begin with a roughing gouge and switch to a spindle gouge.

Use an underhand grip with the tool, rub the bevel on the stock, and make a scooping cut in the cove’s center.

Transition to a skew chisel for shaping the finial, ensuring the bevel rubs throughout the cut.

Shape the finial as desired and use sandpaper to refine the tip.

Repeat the process for the other rear leg and its finial.

4. Turning Rails and Stretchers

Turn the rails and stretchers similarly to the rear legs, using a parting tool to create tenons at each piece’s ends.

Ensure the tenon diameter matches the bit you’ll use for mortises.

The tenon length should be half the thickness of the legs.

Finally, turn the front legs.

Creating Slats:

1. Steaming Slats

Set up a steaming jig and a bending jig.

Activate the steam source and mark the center of each slat.

When steam escapes from the jig’s drain hole, place a slat inside.

Seal the end cap tightly and steam the wood until it becomes pliable.

Steam airdried lumber for approximately one hour per inch of thickness, or half that time for green wood.

Handle the stock with work gloves and tongs to avoid burns.

Immediately bend the steamed