The History of Fragrance in Europe

By Oriental Publishing

This book discovers the enchanting world of European fragrance has deep roots that stretch back through the annals of history, finding its earliest expressions in the ancient civilizations of Greece and Rome. These ancient cultures, with their rich tapestry of myths, rituals, and artistic sensibilities, laid the foundation for the art of perfumery that would eventually blossom into the intricate and sophisticated tradition we know
today.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Oriental Publishing
• Release date: Dec 25, 2023
• ISBN: 9798223422303

Book preview

CONTENTS PAGE

Chapter 1: Aromatic Antiquity

Chapter 2: Medieval Essences

Chapter 3: Renaissance Aromas

Chapter 4: The Perfumed Courts

Chapter 5: From Revolution to Evolution

Chapter 1: Aromatic Antiquity

The enchanting World of European fragrance has deep roots that stretch back through the annals of history, finding its earliest expressions in the ancient civilizations of Greece and Rome. These ancient cultures, with their rich tapestry of myths, rituals, and artistic sensibilities, laid the foundation for the art of perfumery that would eventually blossom into the intricate and sophisticated tradition we know today.

ANCIENT GREECE: THE Birthplace of Perfumery

IN ANCIENT GREECE, the art of perfumery was intricately woven into the fabric of daily life, religious ceremonies, and social customs. The Greeks were passionate about the olfactory experience, viewing fragrance as a potent element that could evoke emotions, honor the divine, and enhance personal allure.

ONE OF THE KEY CONTRIBUTIONS of ancient Greece to perfumery was the development of the first liquid perfume. The word perfume itself finds its origins in the Latin term per fumum, meaning through smoke, a nod to the ancient practice of burning fragrant resins and herbs. However, it was in ancient Greece that the first liquid fragrances, known as oils or unguents, were introduced.

THESE OILS, TYPICALLY derived from natural sources such as flowers, herbs, and spices, were blended with various carrier oils to create aromatic concoctions. The use of these fragrant oils became not only a cosmetic indulgence but also a means of expressing social status and spiritual devotion. The famed Greek poet Sappho, known for her verses on love and beauty, even wrote about the allure of perfumes in her poetry, immortalizing the connection between scent and romance.

AS THE GREEK CIVILIZATION flourished, so did the sophistication of their perfumery. The Greeks developed intricate extraction methods, including distillation and enfleurage, to capture the essence of fragrant botanicals. They also valued the art of blending, creating complex fragrance compositions that were highly prized.

RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES in ancient Greece were infused with the aromatic presence of incense and perfumed oils. Temples dedicated to gods and goddesses were adorned with fragrant offerings, and worshippers anointed themselves with perfumes as a symbolic act of purification and devotion. The

use of fragrances extended to the athletic games as well, where participants anointed themselves with scented oils before competitions.

ANCIENT ROME: A FRAGRANT Empire

THE ROMAN EMPIRE, INHERITING much from Greek culture, embraced and expanded upon the art of perfumery. Rome's insatiable appetite for luxury and refinement manifested in an increased demand for exotic fragrances and intricate perfume rituals. The Romans elevated the use of perfumes to new heights, making it an integral part of their daily lives.

PERFUME BECAME AN ESSENTIAL accessory for both men and women in ancient Rome. It was not only applied to the body but also infused in clothing and linens. The Roman elite reveled in the creation of personalized scents, often seeking out renowned perfumers to concoct fragrances that reflected their individual tastes and status.

THE TRADE ROUTES OF the Roman Empire facilitated the exchange of aromatic treasures from far-flung regions. Spices from the East, resins from Africa, and floral essences from the Mediterranean were among the ingredients that found their way into Roman perfumes. The Romans were particularly enamored with floral scents, and rose, jasmine, and violet became prized ingredients in their perfumery repertoire.

ONE OF THE MOST SIGNIFICANT contributions of ancient Rome to perfumery was the establishment of the first-ever commercial perfumeries. These shops, known as unguentarii, offered an array of fragrant products, from solid perfumes and oils to scented powders. The popularity of these establishments signaled a cultural shift, as perfumery transitioned from a luxury reserved for the elite to a commodity accessible to a broader segment of society.

ROMAN BATHS, RENOWNED for their opulence and grandeur, became immersive experiences in fragrance. A visit to the baths involved not only cleansing the body but also indulging in elaborate perfume rituals. Fragrant oils were applied to the skin, and aromatic balms were used to massage and pamper the body. The air in these bathhouses was redolent with the scent of various essences, creating an environment where indulgence of the senses was paramount.

THE ROMANS ALSO HAD a penchant for scented hair oils and elaborate hairstyles adorned with fragrant flowers. Perfumed pomades and balms were applied not only for cosmetic purposes but also as a means of masking any unpleasant odors—a reflection of the Roman obsession with cleanliness and personal grooming.

The intricate glassblowing techniques of the Romans allowed for