Just add Salt - Growing Skills to Survive

By Denese Sheree

An almanac of simple family survival skills Salt, Water, Warmth, food/foraging, small animal butchering, fire skills and alternative cooking or cooling of food, food storage, simple herbs and healing, managing milking cows and small animals for food and milk, simple candles from fat, make vinegar and care for babies, and so much more. These are not computer generated ideas, but lessons learnt from personal experience and low income, living remotely. Family and home photos for each chapter, this is a realistic approach to managing without a good income and few resources. If you don't need this book right now, you may be glad you have it on hand for the future. Just Add Salt also contains some encouraging verses.

 

• Language: English
• Publisher: Denese Sheree
• Release date: Jun 17, 2023
• ISBN: 9780473672881

Denese Sheree

I was born in West Auckland. One day, Uncle John asked me, “What are you going to do when you grow up?” I was about four years old, and I had just discovered his impressive veggie garden. “I'm going to grow vegetables.”  “Well,” he said, “people will always need to eat.”   I grew a garden in Auckland’s volcanic soil. I grew a garden in Papamoa’s sand. I grew a garden in the High Country above Rotorua and Tauranga, with frosts and thin, gravelly soil. I had two children in my 40s, and grew a huge garden in Hokianga’s heavy clay and high humidity. I stored lots of vegetables, milked a cow, bottled everything, made cheese, and raised poultry, which my husband and children processed for the freezer. I grew many sacks of spuds, onions, and kumara every year. We had plenty; we fed many, and we gave away food. I grew and dried maize, millet, and amaranth. We had more than we needed. But you don't stay young forever. Seeing the need for many to feed themselves, I have written down what I learnt. In my mind, God was showing me ways of doing things when the supply chains broke. And I know so many of these skills have been lost. Support each other through this time. Pray and rejoice, and the Lord Jesus be with you.  

Book preview

1

THE RIGHT START

Wheelbarrow

If you are planning on buying a new place to settle, there are many things to consider. The first consideration is water. No water, no life. Is the soil fertile, clay, or thin and sandy? Is there a hard pan under the surface? Do you think there is any possibility of flooding? Keep away from the coast or choose very high ground near the coast. Luke 21:25 says, And there will be signs in sun and moon and stars, and on the earth distress of nations in perplexity because of the roaring of the sea and the waves. I feel the sea will really boil in the last days, and coastal living comes with risks.

The best choice would be a place that already has some sort of orchard or established gardens. It’s best not to buy land which slopes to the south. This land is cold, less productive, and often more susceptible to cold winds that stunt plant growth and production. Is there any natural shelter, like a block of trees or shelter on the south boundary? Where are the prevailing winds? Is there access to natural water? Could the land slip?

If you are settled where you are, the first thing to do is look outside at your place. Assess everything that’s around you. What is already growing? Is it edible or medicinal? Do you have a garden? What shrubs do you have? What weeds do you have? Are they edible or medicinal or suitable for chicken or rabbit food? What is your environment? What would thrive in your climate? What protein sources do you have? Can you trap or fish or grow your own protein (like nuts of any sort)? Do you have chestnut trees or white oaks? Can you learn how to safely process their seeds and use their bounty?

I want to talk about the right plants in the right place. Let’s think about different climates, microclimates, and trees and shrubs that suit. There are many plants that thrive in the very cold and very hot climates of the South Island; some of those are a bit useless up north. Some vegetables that I brought up from the hill country north of Rotorua were not good up here in the Far North. I currently have potatoes half grown in July. We may get light frosts, but with this microclimate, I can toss leaves or hay over and they will be fine. In the hills, I had from December till April to get all the potatoes in and harvested, but they did very well in the cold climate and did not sprout until the time was good for planting.

Some brassicas (swedes, Brussels sprouts, some sprouting broccoli) are much better down in the cooler climates. We can still grow them here but I need the right varieties. Talk to seed companies before choosing seed and ask which varieties might thrive where you are. Make sure you aren’t purchasing hybrid seeds! I have a lovely lettuce called Mrs Simpson, or Black-seeded Simpson, which is not so easy to get now. I have grown it with frost on its leaves, and although tender, it seemed quite resistant to the frost. Red lettuce is better in really hot weather. There are fewer bird attacks and it’s a bit more drought resistant.

Do a bit of study and see what suits your place. The same applies to fruit, nuts, and other food crops. Grow what suits your soil and climate. This will save a lot of struggle and disappointment. Ask old people in your area; they often know what does really well there.

Ahh, now here’s a good project. When you see—really look—at what grows at your place, write a wee list in a book about it. Find another forager to learn from.

Write down the names of the plants, trees, shrubs, or weeds and research the same questions. Is it edible? Is it good animal food? Does it have medicinal properties that might ever be useful, even if you don’t need it right now? Can you dry it, tincture it, or make an oil with it?

Go for a walk around your area. Where are the fruit trees? Could you barter with services, produce, or labour? Who has a great garden? Can you help them, learn their skills, and trade seeds? Are there coastal areas or beaches? Can you collect a little seaweed or seafood? Is there any wild foraging to be done? Can you throw peach or fruit tree seeds or stones into waste places so they might grow wild? Are there any streams or rivers near you? Can you trap fish, trout, or kōura (freshwater crayfish) in there? Look at the plants. Is raupō (bulrush) there? That’s a very special plant with many uses: roots underneath, fluff on top for starting fires, and if you are early, you might be able to save pollen. Yum. Are you in low-lying land? Where would you quickly evacuate when the seas roar and the earth shakes? Are there trees nearby suitable for collecting firewood? Make a plan and study your environment. Draw an actual map!

Foraging walk

Foraging walk.

A little advice to prepare an excellent garden, something I do more than ever now, is mulching. Layers and layers of all sorts. For many, many years I never bought any sort of minerals or fertilisers, just relied on a wide variety of natural layers and homemade liquid manure, and my veggies were fine. However, as you age, you start to look at what might be lacking in your soil and how that might be impacting your health. So my go-to system, especially in autumn as the main crops come out, is to layer the garden deeply in this way:

First, grass clippings, about 4 (10 cm) deep, then a good dusting of dolomite and ash from the fire (don’t burn toxic stuff in your fire). Then I put on a layer (about 6/ 15 cm deep) of autumn leaves. If the soil is really cloggy or clayish, I would add sand, about a bucket to five square yards (or metres). Without stripping a beach, I add seaweed. Seaweed that has been baking in the sun loses its key ingredient, iodine, so fresh, wet seaweed that has come up in a storm is best. Layer it under other mulches, about one sack to five square yards. Kitchen waste can go under the mulches. If you have a lot of bugs, a fire is great before mulching. Burn dry prunings and lots of old bones from the dog’s leftovers or from cooking or butchering. You could get bones from a butcher. This is quite a significant step. Think outside the square. What falls in the natural environment? Egg shells, feathers, hair cuttings, bones from passed animals and birds, flowers, green leaves, dry branches, animal droppings....

Which brings me to animal manure. I keep chickens, and chicken manure is my go-to for good garlic, shallots, onions, and leeks. Chicken manure is known as a HOT manure. It is largely weed free, but too much near the wrong plants can cause the plants to burn. It’s strong but really high in minerals. It’s a good idea to google different manures and what minerals they add; there’s way too much information to include here. Cow manure makes great cowpat tea. You put two or three patties in a big bucket of water and leave it to rot, then drain off the ‘tea’. It’s wonderful watered around green leafy veggies. I don’t apply liquid manure to leaves, because it’s a big nitrogen hit. Sheep manure is amazing for growth but sheep eat weeds and seeds, which makes weedy manure. It’s best to bury it deep. I like to bury it under pumpkins, courgettes, watermelon, cucumbers, and anything from that family. It’s great under anything and also good in a big drum for liquid manure.

Comfrey leaves can also be added to liquid manure. Comfrey can be grown in the garden. There is a seeding variety and a clumping variety. The seeding one can get out of hand. but its leaves can be harvested a number of times over summer. These leaves are full of calcium and other minerals and have just the right combination of goods for potatoes and tomatoes.

I have a large plastic drum and all sorts of stuff goes in it! Fish frames and heads, sheep and cow manure, a little seaweed (I don’t wash seaweed when I put it on the garden, but I would for liquid manure), and egg shells or dolomite so it doesn’t get too acidic.

I also add any problem weeds. Weeds are great; they heal land and the ground needs them! Adding problem weeds to the liquid manure kills the weed seeds if left long enough, but returns the right nutrients to the soil. If you have a specific problem with a weed, google what minerals it holds. You might find out a lot about your soil by studying your weeds. Carrot weed brings up magnesium; dock brings up copper; willow and poplar hold zinc… There is so much more to add here. but these are a few thoughts to help you understand your environment.

Mulch your garden in winter. It will be amazing in spring and the worms will loosen the soil for a great summer. See your patch as a huge compost heap. The rain comes down through and all this goodness goes into your soil, ready to feed big crops. Mulch goes a long way to drought-proof your soil and stop waterlogging.

Holly on rocks

If you really wish to be near the coast, be sure your home is well above sea level. Coastlines are eroding and the sea becoming more aggressive and unpredictable. However, there is great foraging and fishing to be had here.

bonfire

Above : Burning off an area where a persistent weed seeded, and to add potash and minerals and reduce pests and diseases. Old bones, skins, fish frames, etc. are great to add to a fire for a garden.

Natural resources

Above : Are there natural resources where you are? Do you have access to water, fishing, wild foraging, hunting, or trapping? Little streams may contain kōura (freshwater crayfish) or eels and can service poultry for water and shelter. Ducks could breed in these areas.

Sheltered place

Left : Is there a flat, sheltered place for gardens or buildings? How far from a good water source is it? Does it get sunshine for most of the day? Could a flood go through the suitable food production area or the sheds and storage areas?

2

JUST ADD SALT

Salt cellar

From hygiene to health to preservation, salt resolves many issues. In my opinion, it would be the most difficult commodity to live without. Salt can help prevent deficiencies.

We need warmth, shelter, water, food, and salt. We can actually live without lights! Sleep when it’s dark—but it’s a bit hard though, eh! Salt is essential in my thinking. I know a family who moved to live in a very remote place. They decided not to buy toothpaste and had a totally natural diet, but their teeth started to break down after less than a year. For natural recipes for toothpaste and toothpowder, see chapter 18, Personal products.

I include seaweed in my diet for iodine. I gather it from the tide so it hasn’t been dried in the sun, then bring it home and quickly hang it in the shady, breezy carport. If you leave seaweed in a heap or a bag it will rot extremely quickly. I cut dried seaweed very finely with scissors and add it to soups and stews. It can be pounded to use as a salt substitute but is not as high in sodium as true salt.

Pink Himalayan salt is wonderful, but apparently child slaves are used in its mining. Sea salt is good, but plastic particles have been found in it! Celtic salt is great but really expensive. It’s very high in magnesium and is especially good in electrolyte drinks.