Discovering the Allagash: A Canoeing Guide to the Allagash Wilderness Waterway, North Maine Woods

By Jeff Sims

This book is the ultimate guide to the Allagash Wilderness Waterway (AWW) because it covers every aspect of the canoeing/camping experience from the skilled eyes of a seasoned camper, accomplished canoeist and dedicated Eagle Scout. It includes maps based on the map/brochure issued by Maines Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry with permission from the AWW Superintendent. There are over 100 stunning color photos, suggestions of what to bring, where to park, where to put-in and take-out, as well as brief summaries of what to expect at different campsites. It is also a study of contrasts, as the author describes: quiet serene lakes; charging bull moose; terrifying intense winds creating three-foot waves; rainbows over calm water; embedded history of lumbering; spelunking in the Ice Caves; hiking nature trails with beautiful vistas; starring up at the Northern Lights; surviving the white water of Chase Rapids; falling asleep exhausted to the call of a loon, the babbling of a brook or the roar of a waterfall, and so much more. The AWW is an extremely remote, nature sanctuary that has won the authors heart. He hopes the guidance and advice in his book will allow others to canoe this wilderness paradise with confidence and insight, as they are reminded of Henry David Thoreaus quote: ...in wildness is the preservation of the world.

• Language: English
• Publisher: iUniverse
• Release date: May 2, 2018
• ISBN: 9781532046070

Jeff Sims

Jeff Sims is a naturalist who grew up in a rural, wooded setting in New York. He was an enthusiastic Boy Scout, attaining the rank of Eagle Scout. He holds a B.S. degree in Biology and a M.S. in Environmental Science. Jeff is now retired and lives in Connecticut with his wife, Yvonne. He first discovered the Allagash Wilderness Waterway at age 40 when supervising a Scout canoeing trip. He found it to be the most amazingly beautiful, nature sanctuary he had ever experienced. Furthermore, it provided a sense of remoteness and the feeling of being truly off-the-grid. Almost every summer through to today, Jeff has returned to the Allagash to canoe, camp, explore and photograph. Astonishingly, very little ever changes at the AWW. Its as if this paradise is in a time capsule; sites are as pristine now as they were on his first trip. This book is the culmination of all those adventures as well as a helpful guide to future Allagash paddlers.

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DISCOVERING THE ALLAGASH

A CANOEING GUIDE TO THE ALLAGASH WILDERNESS WATERWAY, NORTH MAINE WOODS

Copyright © 2018 Jeff Sims.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced by any means, graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping or by any information storage retrieval system without the written permission of the author except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

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Because of the dynamic nature of the Internet, any web addresses or links contained in this book may have changed since publication and may no longer be valid. The views expressed in this work are solely those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher, and the publisher hereby disclaims any responsibility for them.

Any people depicted in stock imagery provided by Getty Images are models,

and such images are being used for illustrative purposes only.

Certain stock imagery © Getty Images.

ISBN: 978-1-5320-4606-3 (sc)

ISBN: 978-1-5320-4607-0 (e)

Library of Congress Control Number: 2018904191

iUniverse rev. date: 04/30/2018

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DEDICATION

This book is dedicated to Owen, Sean, Emma and Oliver,

and the next generation of Allagash Paddlers

John Muir wrote: Wilderness is not only a haven for native plants and animals but it is also a refuge from society. It’s a place to go to hear the wind and little else, see the stars and the galaxies, smell the pine trees, feel the cold water, touch the sky and the ground at the same time…

CONTENTS

Map #1: Location of Allagash Wilderness Waterway in Maine

Acknowledgements

Introduction

Part One

Trips from Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge to Churchill Dam

Map #2: Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge to Churchill Dam

CHAPTERS:

I.   1990 - My First Trip to the Allagash is with Boy Scouts - Chamberlain Lake, Eagle Lake, Churchill Lake Dam

II.   1991 - Mike - Chamberlain Lake, Eagle Lake

III.   1992 - Dave - Chamberlain Lake, Eagle Lake, Churchill Lake Dam

IV.   1993 - My Daughter, Katie; Skip and his son, Mike - Chamberlain and Eagle Lakes

Part Two

Trips to Allagash Lake

Map #3: Allagash Lake

CHAPTERS:

V.   1994 - Two Trips

Trip 1 - my daughter, Katie; Scout Leader Kathy, and her cousin, Dan - Allagash Lake / put-in at Johnson’s Pond, take-out at Allagash Stream

Trip 2 - Boy Scouts - Allagash Lake / put-in at Johnson’s Pond, take-out at Allagash Stream Bridge, below Little Allagash Falls

VI.   1995 - Dave - Allagash Stream to Allagash Lake

1998 – A short trip with my daughter, Katie - Churchill Dam to Eagle Lake (see Map #2)

VII.   2002 - Frank - Allagash Lake via Johnson’s Pond

Part Three

Trips to Telos Lake, Eagle Lake, and Allagash Lake

Map #4: Telos Lake and Eagle Lake

Map #3: repeat of Allagash Lake

CHAPTERS:

VIII.   2003 - Frank - Telos Lake and Eagle Lake via Indian Pond Stream

IX.   2004 - Frank - Telos Lake, Eagle Lake via Indian Pond Stream, and Allagash Lake via Johnson’s Pond

X.   2005 and 2009 - Frank - Allagash Lake via Carry Trail

XI.   2006 - 2009 - Summer Trips with Bruce (reference maps as needed)

2006 - Telos Lake, Allagash Lake / put-in at Allagash Stream, take-out at Johnson’s Pond

2007 - Eagle Lake via Indian Pond Stream

2008 - Chamberlain Lake

2009 - Eagle Lake via Indian Pond Stream

Part Four

The Whole Enchilada – The 100-Mile Saga from Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge to Allagash Village

Map #5: Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge to John’s Bridge

Map #6: John’s Bridge to Long Lake Dam

Map #7: Long Lake Dam to Allagash Village

CHAPTERS:

XII.   2010 - Bruce - Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge, Eagle Lake, Churchill Lake, Allagash River, Allagash Village

Appendix I - Group Equipment List

Appendix II - Personal Gear List

Appendix III - Tips / Take note for Allagash Canoe/Campers

Appendix IV - Directions to Put-in / Take-out locations used in this book and a list of additional Allagash Wilderness Waterway access points

Appendix V - A link to an internet color map of the AWW (and a whole lot more useful information) provided by Maine’s Department of Agriculture, Conservation & Forestry

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

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First and foremost, I would like to thank Maine’s Department of Agriculture, Conservation & Forestry which includes the Bureau of Parks and Lands. Specifically, my appreciation goes out to Matthew LaRoche, Superintendent of the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. Without both their direction and careful management there would not be the AWW opportunities that currently exist. Their brochure with its map has been crucial to my exploration of the AWW. Furthermore, I want to credit Richard D. Kelly Jr. for having designed and drawn the initial AWW map (representations of which appear in my book).

My thanks and debts of gratitude also go to the many Allagash canoe partners that have made my trips both enjoyable and possible. Without a doubt, we have shared some memorable adventures together. It is important to mention that in this group are Dennis Murphy, who first introduced me to the Allagash Wilderness; my daughter Katie, who was indeed a great partner and fellow explorer; Frank Kaczmarek, who broadened my vision of the Allagash via photography; and Bruce Kopec, who endured my company on more trips to the region than anyone else. Bruce has seen it all, but most significantly accompanied me on the 100-mile saga from Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge to Allagash Village, including surviving the Tramway Portage and the Chase Rapids portion of Allagash River.

A special thank you to my family who supported my endless summer excursions to the Allagash. Beyond this I’d like to acknowledge my wife, Yvonne, for encouraging me to complete this book, for her countless hours of editing and re-editing, and also for her cartography skill that she provided to allow the reader a map reference to my travels. Yvonne often shares with me that she feels like she has experienced the Allagash, but through my eyes and stories. And although she has never physically been there, she has a special appreciation for this North Maine Woods wilderness paradise.

From Yvonne’s rough maps: color, campsite details, and labeling, were added by, graphic designer, Carole Drong. Carole’s work was a crucial piece in clarifying the how and where of my many trips.

Finally, I would like to extend my appreciation to the entire team at IUniverse Publishers who helped make my book a reality.

In Memory

I would also like to pay tribute to two close friends who had joined me on multiple trips to the Allagash. They both died too young with so much left to do and see. Their passing is a great loss to their family, friends, community, and beyond. I think of them still and remember our shared time paddling the waters of the Allagash.

It is with a great deal of admiration that I talk about Kathy Milisen who battled cancer with courage and grace. She loved the outdoors and enjoyed the world of Scouting with her two sons. She readily took on the role of Assistant Scout leader which is how we became acquainted. Kathy was a naturalist at heart and took great satisfaction in being able to identify the plants, birds and mammals she encountered. Camping and canoeing were activities she treasured and hoped to share with her sons. She was determined to help me discover the Allagash and pass it on to the Scouts, which she proudly accomplished. She is missed by all.

Dave Gilletti is the other person I want to acknowledge. He was not just a good neighbor, a wonderful husband and father, but he was a dear friend. I feel blessed that over the years we were able to spend a great deal of time together both as individuals and together with our families, before he was taken in a tragic skiing accident. Dave was larger than life and the spice of any gathering. He had a great sense of humor and was known for his big heart and fun spirit. His being well-liked would be an understatement in our community. Coming from Colorado, Dave introduced me to country music which kept us entertained during our 10-hour rides to the Allagash. Like me, once at the AWW he enjoyed its peace, serenity and oneness with nature. He too is greatly missed.

Both of these individuals are very special and their cherished memories will be with me forever.

INTRODUCTION

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The United States Congress stated in The Wilderness Act of 1964:

A wilderness, in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is hereby recognized as an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.

I am a biologist, an environmentalist, a nature photographer, and an avid outdoorsman. Discovering the Allagash at age 40 was eye-opening. I hungered to learn about this treasure and later, share it with the world.

Over my many years of return trips to the Allagash Wilderness Waterway (AWW) I investigated the out-of-the-way recesses of this waterway that most travelers don’t get a chance to see. When I first started out, however, I floundered and wished I could find a guide book to help the beginner to navigate this intricate network of over 100 miles of lakes, streams and river referred to as the Allagash. Initially, that was the premise of my book Discovering the Allagash. But, over the years it has evolved into something more.

My book really has multiple purposes. I desired to introduce future canoe-campers to the many wonders of the AWW; to provide a guide on how to get there and, most importantly, what there is to see and explore. I wanted to share the process of how I discovered the Allagash and in so doing tell the stories of my many adventures. Additionally, as I learned the art of photography, I wanted to provide photographs of what I had seen during my Allagash travels, and to give visual testimony to the beauty of the Allagash, my tranquil sanctuary.

I realize that my readers will also have various goals as to what they wish to accomplish on the Allagash. Some will use this book to choose an option for finding the quickest and most efficient route to get from point A to point B. Others will use this book to help choose a location for reaching their personal paradise where they are forced to unplug. Some may use information provided here for seeking out the thrill of river and white-water canoeing. No matter what floats your canoe, I hope you will just enjoy reading about my Allagash adventures and use this book to plan your own memorable trip.

I have described throughout the book how my gear, food and safety supplies evolved through the years. Included in the appendices are helpful lists of what I suggest to bring along and reading the chapters will give insight to why these items were chosen. The Appendix labeled Take note is a review and quick reference to tips provided throughout the book. Finally, also in an Appendix, I offer some directions to the put-in and take-out locations I have used to enter and exit the Allagash Wilderness Waterway. I hope you find these various appendices beneficial as you plan your trip.

Safe journeys!

DISCLAIMER:

I would like to explain that the maps included in this book are current as of 2018. When comparing older and newer versions of the AWW map/brochure, there are some campsites that have fewer or greater number of cells. The number of cells per campsite that are mentioned throughout this book are, however, accurate for the given timeframe described.

PART ONE

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Trips from Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge to Churchill Dam

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CHAPTER 1

1990 - My First Trip to the Allagash is with Boy Scouts

(Chamberlain Lake, Eagle Lake, Churchill Lake)

A fellow Boy Scout Assistant leader, Dennis, recounted to me that during the summer of 1989 he had canoed with his wife and sons on a remote lake system in Northern Maine. He said it was just a phenomenal experience. A friend of his had introduced him to the area and he thought that it would be a great place to take some older Scouts on a weeklong canoe trip. Dennis knew the roads to get us to the put-in spot and was familiar with the lakes we would be canoeing. His enthusiasm and confidence were all I needed to convince me. I agreed wholeheartedly with the proposal and so we now needed to present the idea to the other leaders.

I have a passion for adventures in nature, but not knowing first-hand about the Allagash Wilderness Waterway (AWW), combined with being responsible for Scouts made me a bit apprehensive. This trip was not going to be a simple undertaking because it meant wilderness canoeing and camping. I remember being part of a three-day trip down the Delaware River when I was a Scout at summer camp. But that was long ago and I was just a canoeist, and not an adult organizer responsible for the entire success of the trip as well as everyone’s welfare. Now however, as an adult Eagle Scout, a canoeing merit badge counselor, and an Assistant Scoutmaster, I felt I had important skills to draw from. I also knew the value of preparation and thorough planning. There was much work to be done.

To start with, Dennis provided me with a combination map/brochure of the Allagash Wilderness Waterway he had obtained the previous summer from the Northern Region, Bureau of Parks and Lands, Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation & Forestry. There is actually a lot of valuable information provided in this map/brochure, and no sugar coating on the potential dangers.

[Take note: obtain a copy of the Allagash Wilderness Waterway map/brochure from Northern Region, Bureau of Parks and Lands, Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation & Forestry, 106 Hogan Road, Bangor, Maine 04401. It is handed out when you pay your camping AWW fees at one of the entry gates. But, I recommend requesting a copy to review when planning your first trip. It is also available on-line – see Appendix V for link.]

I really wanted to offer this adventure to our Scouts, but were we out of our minds? It’s bad enough to expose oneself to potential danger, but we would be responsible for a young group that ultimately would look to us for having a thoroughly thought-out expedition.

Dennis and I designed an initial trip schedule that would take us from Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge to Churchill Dam and then back (see Map #2). As an added bonus, we planned an overnight stop and meal at Nugent’s Sporting Camp located on the eastern shore of Chamberlain Lake. We figured by then the boys would enjoy a break from tent camping. We also thought about performing a service project, to be coordinated with the AWW staff.

Next Dennis and I approached the rest of the Scout Troup Committee with our proposals and received an enthusiastic buy-in for the trip from leaders as well as interest from other adults on the committee who wanted to come along. By spring, the final head count was eighteen, a good size group. Our Troop could accommodate most with our six seventeen-foot all aluminum Grumman Canoes. Additionally, a couple leaders volunteered to use their personal canoes. We limited the age group to include grades 7-12 because we felt they needed to have developed sufficient strength and stamina for this undertaking.

Throughout the winter and spring Dennis and I continually met to create a group equipment list (see Appendix I). We also needed to plan for the potential of dividing into two independent groups, since a maximum of twelve individuals per group was mentioned in the AWW map/brochure. We also created a personal gear list (see Appendix II) and recommended the use of an 18-gallon plastic Tupperware™ container to pack the items in. All personal gear had to fit in one of these containers or a river bag of equivalent size.

We planned a menu that would provide a hot breakfast, sandwich lunch and substantial hot dinner. We made no attempt to pack light: water, cans, boxes, fresh fruit and frozen items would need to be stored in appropriate containers. Before departing we would practice loading all containers to be sure all would fit in the canoes (the dry run).

Furthermore, we required that all Scouts who did not have their canoeing merit badge must undergo individual canoe training including canoe safety and basic paddling strokes. All Scouts on the trip needed to demonstrate on a local pond reasonable control of a canoe and how to safely swamp and recover from such an event.

My wife, Yvonne, an experienced Girl Scout leader, suggested that each parent be given an individual map with an approximate itinerary and the Allagash emergency contact telephone number found in the AWW map/brochure. Any contact between AWW rangers is done via radios. There are no phone lines and no cell towers, so unless you bring a satellite phone, there is no phone service. In an emergency, the rangers are contacted via Ham radio. Yvonne worked to make this a reality and as it turned out, these items relieved the anxiety of a lot of our Scouts’ parents.

My first of many memorable trips on the Allagash

Because events do not happen in a vacuum, I remember that Kuwait (on August 2nd) had just been invaded by Iraq. Although there was considerable concern and trepidation about what could happen as a result of this, on Saturday, the second to last week in August of 1990, we Scouts all gathered at 5:00 a.m. to pack the gear into our trucks, vans and cars. The canoes were loaded on top of vehicles or onto our troop trailer. We had allotted one hour to pack and say goodbyes, then we were off on the adventure of a lifetime. Little did I realize at the time, that this would only be the first of my many personal summer journeys to the Allagash.

Crossing the Piscataqua River Bridge from New Hampshire into Maine, I felt a sense of calm take over my persona; we were approaching a wilderness vacationland. Other than a number of tollbooths and looking for moose in every wetland, the trip was an uneventful seven-hour haul to the town Millinocket where we stopped to have our lunch at McDonald’s. Most of us made a telephone call from Millinocket, as this would be the last chance to communicate with home for the duration of the trip. We used a public payphone connected to the outside wall of the local grocery store. For those who may remember, this was a dial phone and I made a collect call home. Today, with the proliferation of cell phones, this public phone has been rendered obsolete, and is no longer in service.

After this break, we all went back into our respective vehicles, and with Dennis in the lead, meandered our way in the direction of Baxter State Park. Before reaching Baxter, we gassed up our vehicles, then the lead car turned off the well-paved main road and onto a less than pristine, blacktopped, logging road. Very soon thereafter, we were stopped at a manned checkpoint (Golden Road Gatehouse, currently not in operation) where we filled out paper work describing our vehicles, ourselves and where we were headed. We were headed to Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge via the Golden Road and Telos Road. There are no road signs so, the names of the roads were actually learned a few years later after purchasing an up-to-date DeLorme’s, The Maine Atlas and Gazetteer – a must have for traveling the ever changing privately owned network of logging roads.

[Take note: Purchase a current The Maine Atlas and Gazetteer by DeLorme to help navigate the logging roads of the AWW.]

My first memorable moment on this first Allagash trip was on the Golden Road as we approached Mt. Katahdin. There, right in breath taking full view, was a magnificent mountain peak and talus slope. Wow, quite the contrast to the relatively flat terrain we had seen on our entire ride up! Traveling a bit further we passed over Abol Bridge, a one-lane bridge, with another spectacular mountain view and an impressive camping area along the West Branch of the Penobscot River.

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A view of Mt. Katahdin as seen from Abol Bridge on the Golden Road

We continued on The Golden Road and made a right onto Telos Road soon after seeing Big Eddy Campground. After a very short distance there was another one lane bridge over the West Branch of the Penobscot River. Although the signs said no stopping, we could not resist slowing to just a crawl, mouths agape, as we passed over ripping white water. These rushing waters are the destination for many whitewater enthusiasts who are often seen trying to negotiate these rapids.

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West Branch Penobscot River after turning onto Telos Road

Around a curve, just after crossing over the West Branch of the Penobscot, we transitioned to an unpaved logging road. As we traveled, our vehicles kicked up clouds of dust; enough so that we had to spread out in order not to be enveloped in this dirt fog obscuring our vision. The roads were actually treated with a calcium salt meant to adsorb moisture and reduce dust – Hah! Everyone kept a lookout for moose, black bear, deer, and the drivers especially kept a lookout for logging trucks.

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Be sure to give these lumber trucks the right-of-way

Did I mention these trucks deservedly have the right-of-way? Our excitement escalated as our put-in destination drew near. One last stop, almost two hours after leaving Millinocket, was at the Telos Gate, where we checked in and received in return, an additional map/brochure of the Allagash Wilderness Waterway, a receipt to be returned on our way out, and a proof of payment to show any Allagash rangers. We also received instructions that we would indeed need to split our eighteen adventurers into two groups with no group greater than twelve. It’s a good thing we had planned for such an event. While at the Telos Gate the coolest thing occurred. Out of the late afternoon woods, a lanky young moose sauntered into view and seemingly checked us out. The moose was remarkably unafraid of our group as it made its way across the parking lot, lingered for a while at a salty mud puddle and then headed for the woods behind the checkpoint. The Scouts took plenty of pictures to show their families and friends back home. What a nice introduction to the AWW.

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Our first moose sighting at Telos Gate

Back in the cars, we passed a sign stating we were entering Allagash Wilderness Waterway, and soon thereafter, we drove up to the Chamberlain Lake Ranger Station just to the left, before crossing Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge.

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Ranger Station at Chamberlain Thoroughfare Bridge

First on our to-do list was checking in with Ranger Jim Kelly, or more precisely his wife, who signed us in and inquired about our trip plans. We discussed having the Scouts do a service project later in the week. Ranger Jim suggested doing some cleanup at Chamberlain Farm. He would bring some tools and we would supply the energy – hopefully, we would have some left. We tried to convince the ranger to allow us all to stay together, but Ranger Jim was adamant. Twelve was the largest group permitted, unless our group had been grandfathered