Shipwreck Treasures, Incan Gold, and Living on Ice - Celebrating 50 Years of Adventure
By Ed Sobey
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About this ebook
Oceanographer and museum director Dr. Ed Sobey travels the world conducting research, arranging museum exhibitions, and training science teachers. He dives for sunken treasure, winters in Antarctica, and records whale vocalizations from his ocean kayak. In a series of short stories he relates the exotic experiences that befall a curious adventur
Ed Sobey
Ed Sobey holds a PhD in science and teaches for Semester at Sea. He also lectures at sea for passengers on several cruise lines and has traveled the equivalent of ten times around the world at sea. The Fulbright Commission has awarded Ed two grants for training science teachers in foreign countries. To date he has trained teachers in more than 30 countries. He is a former naval officer and has directed five science centers, published 34 books, and hosted two television series on science and technology. Ed is a Fellow of The Explorers Club and has participated in two dozen scientific expeditions. He has conducted ocean research in winter in Antarctica; sailed across the Pacific Ocean in a small sailboat, and recorded whale sounds from an ocean kayak. He organizes and leads citizen science expeditions for the nonprofit Northwest Explorers.
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Shipwreck Treasures, Incan Gold, and Living on Ice - Celebrating 50 Years of Adventure - Ed Sobey
Shipwreck Treasures, Incan Gold, and Living on Ice
Celebrating 50 Years of Adventure
Ed Sobey, PhD
Acknowledgements
Thanks first and foremost to my wife, Barbara, for encouraging me, helping me, and joining me on so many adventures. Many of these adventures would not have occurred without her support or participation.
Likewise I thank and apologize to our sons Woody and Andrew. I thank them for being eager participants in many of our adventure and apologize for exposing them to so many iffy situations. Paddling to Assateague Island when wind and waves had thwarted the attempt by buff college students. Climbing rocks with minimal instruction. SCUBA diving with me. These experiences could have turned them away from nature and adventure, but it brought them closer. For that I am delighted.
Thanks to Jean and John Weigant for their partnership in several adventures sailing, kayaking, and hiking, and for their editing of this manuscript. Jean did an exceptional job catching the myriad errors I made. Frank Handler also provided edits. Frank and I worked together to revive and run the Pacific Northwest Chapter of The Explorers Club for a decade. Steve McCracken and Pete Marshall, running friends, reviewed the drafts. Thank you.
Thanks to all the other people I shared a night or two in a tent, aboard a boat, or in a hut in Antarctica.
It’s been a grand ride and I can only hope it’s not over.
Ed
Shipwreck Treasures, Incan Gold, and
Living on Ice
Celebrating 50 Years of Adventure
Across the oceans
Hang on Tightly and Look Up 5
Under Fire 9
Living on Thin Ice 11
Digging a Hole in the Ross Sea 15
How to Go at 40 Below 20
This isn’t Going to End Well 24
Sailing Across the Pacific Ocean 28
Let a Sleeping Whale Sleep 38
Hit by a Whale 40
Night of the Turtle 44
Shark! 49
Sweetwater Paddling
Busted by US Customs Inspectors 51
Yellowstone River Upside Down 54
Now On exhibit
Busted in Peru 64
Armored Car 68
Fire Alarms were Sounding 70
It Takes a Village to Catch a Thief 73
Free Snake with Your Call to 911 76
Racing Tricycles Underwater 79
Kick Me
in Cairo 82
Diving for Shipwreck Treasure: Cue the Jaws 85
Theme
Sinking a Rolls Royce in the Atlantic Ocean 91
Museum Director’s Rookie Mistakes 95
Lassoed by a Shark Sucker 97
King of Treasure Divers 101
Transporting Treasure 105
Dinosaur with a Broken Neck 107
Along the Great Wall of China 109
Creating the National Toy Hall of Fame 112
Traveling on a Paper Rocket
The Man with a Sub-machine Gun Said: 117
Give the Nice Policeman Some
Money
Leroy Just Got Out 120
Short Hike
Inside the Volcano 123
Goat Rocks 127
Bears Ate My Breakfast 130
Parting Thought 133
Appendix
The Course Navigated 134
Expeditions 135
Fulbright Grants 135
Training Workshops Given 136
Lecturer at Sea 137
Books Published 138
Canoeing and Kayaking Adventures 140
Backpacking Adventures 140
SCUBA and Snorkeling Adventures 141
Across oceans
With a one-year deferment from the Navy I went to graduate school in oceanography at Oregon State University in the fall 1969. There Barbara and I met and I went on my first research expedition.
Hang on Tightly and Look Up
The aft deck of the RV Cayuse was rocking wildly and was awash in sea water. I was desperately trying to hold on and not be carried overboard. Big waves were breaking over the stern and a heavy rain pelted us from above. So this is oceanography?
I wondered.
My first research cruise in 1969 was a wild ride and grand adventure. It was grand in that I learned a lot and no one got killed.
We sailed from Newport, Oregon and the smell of the diesel engine imprinted in my brain. To this day I associate the smell of heavy diesel with adventure.
Our goal was to continue a series of hydrographic casts off the Oregon coast. We would get samples of water and measure temperature from the surface to the bottom at specific depths. We’d stop and lower a long metal cable with a weight on the end. To it we attached Nansen or NIO (National Institute of Oceanography) sampling bottles at proscribed lengths of the cable by leaning over the side of the ship, grabbing the cable and aligning slots on the bottle with the cable. Then one hand would hold the bottle on the wire while the other tightened the retaining screws. The text book photos I had seen were all shot in fair weather and calm seas and the job looked easy. But with 10-15’ Pacific rollers coming at us, it was not.
Our second goal was to recover a lost current meter. It was attached to two or three railroad wheels as an anchor and a ground line that had been played out on the sea floor. The ground wire provided the recovery option we now needed. The float supporting the current meter either had broken free or sunk and now the expensive current meter was somewhere on the bottom. So between hydro casts we would drag a grappling hook across the sea floor hoping to catch the ground line. When it did, the tension on the grappling hook wire would jump and we would know we had hooked something.
The call came in the middle of the night. Most of the students were sea sick and no one wanted to climb out of a warm bunk and assemble on the deck in the driving rain and pitching seas. But up we went.
The grappling hook had found something and it was being reeled in on the Cayuse’s boom. Shortly after I arrived on deck the hook rose out of the water to the snatch block at the end of the boom. Holding on with both hands I watched the hook pitch left and right as wave after wave lifted and dropped the 70’ Cayuse. With each wave the two ends of the ground wire suspended above the deck by the hook rubbed against the stern of the ship adding a nasty rasping sound to the cacophony on deck.
Someone yelled to me that since we didn’t know which end of the ground wire held the current meter, we would have to cut the ground wire and haul in each end, one at a time. To do this we had to secure each end of the cable and then cut it between the two secured points. Then we had to clamp one of the two ends to another wire that would pull it in with a winch. In port this would be a tricky operation, out here it was madness.
The party chief, Asa, was a technician with years of experience. This was his time to step up and run the show. He did. He stood on the open stern of the Cayuse, balancing with no hand holds, with nothing between him and the open sea. He started to bolt a length of cable to one side of the ground wire. The ground wire slid and jumped and could have pulled him overboard at any second, but he pivoted and swayed as it moved and kept his balance.
Then it happened. It took a fraction of a second but burned a memory in my mind and in Asa’s life jacket. Under the tension of several one-ton railroad wheel anchors, the grapple wire parted.
Freed from its load one end of the wire snapped upward, shattered the light atop the boom, then whistled through the block and tangled onto the winch. The cable had snapped back like a giant rubber band stretched beyond its limit. No one was hit.
But the other end of the wire held the grappling hook with its 5 ton load. It screamed downward heading for the sea bottom, but before it disappeared over the stern, it hit Asa and then slammed into the deck sending a shower of sparks into the sea.
I stood frozen. Frozen in disbelief and fear. Two seconds