From Battersea to the Tower: Exploring Londons Thames Path

By John Costella

'From Battersea to the Tower' provides the reader with an interesting and artistic picture of the history, beauty and occasion that is associated with an area of the Thames Path on both the North and South banks of the river.

This book is a perfect accompaniment for both the walker and armchair reader, and focuses on the passage between Battersea Bridge and Tower Bridge, identifying numerous buildings of historical significance as well as the bridges themselves that cross the Thames.

Each chapter includes a brief, but detailed history, of the relevant boroughs and districts which border the path, identifying the origins of many street names together with plenty of ghostly tales from the past.

• Language: English
• Publisher: AuthorHouse UK
• Release date: Mar 5, 2010
• ISBN: 9781467006729

John Costella

John Costella was born in London and is of Italian descent. Having studied art, period architecture, and history, he now brings together these components into his literary works. Drawing on his knowledge of London and Venice, his earlier works included historical journals of both great cities, all of which include his own familiar style of illustrations. More recently, he has focused his attention in creating mystery novels that encapsulate historical themes into the vagaries of criminality within the twenty-first century.

Book preview

© 2010 John Costella. All rights reserved.

No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means without the written permission of the author.

First published by AuthorHouse 3/25/2010

ISBN: 978-1-4389-9700-1 (sc)

ISBN: 978-1-4389-9701-8 (hc)

ISBN: 978-1-4670-0672-9 (ebk)

Contents

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

INTRODUCTION

The River Thames & London’s Thames Path

Part One

1

2

3

4

5

Part Two

6

7

8

9

10

11

EPILOGUE

For Meghan

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I am indebted to my patient, understanding, and supportive wife, Avril, who spent many hours proofreading this journal, whilst I was researching, sketching, and walking London’s Thames Path. In addition to my wife, I should also thank my immediate family, Louise, Anthony, Michelle, and Julie for consistently listening to tales of my travels along the river and providing constructive advice when it was required.

In writing this book, I spent endless hours in public libraries, galleries, and museums researching my work; therefore I would like firstly to record my thanks to the staff at the Guildhall Library for the use of their desktop archiving facilities as well as the fine collection of books on offer to read. I am also extremely grateful to the staff that assisted me whenever I visited Battersea Library, British Library, Chelsea Library, Camden Local Studies & Archive Centre, Pimlico Library, Shoe Lane Library, and Westminster Reference Library. I am also grateful to Julian Batson (Oakhill Publishing) once again for his guidance, professional knowledge, and encouragement, which helped me to gain a greater understanding of market processes.

In addition to visiting the above reference libraries, I also gained a wealth of information from visiting The Imperial War Museum, The National Archives, London Transport Museum, The National Gallery, and The Wallace Collection.

Special thanks also to Sylvia and Freda Marshall for the time they spent explaining to me the complete history of the King’s Army, and also for inviting me to their annual parade; they are both active members of this honourable society.

On each occasion that I travelled along the Thames Path, I had need of watering holes for refreshment, and therefore I should mention and thank each restaurant and pub (far too many to name) that provided me with good fare on route, especially those close to Hay’s Galleria.

Lastly, I am indebted to the Tate Gallery, especially Julia Beaumont-Jones and Christine Kurpiel who enthusiastically work in the Prints and Drawings Room, for allowing me to view and copy so many prints and watercolours by past masters. Each visit recharged my enthusiasm to complete this book, and, perhaps more importantly, provided the inspiration to complete my own sketches.

INTRODUCTION

From Battersea to the Tower – Exploring London’s Thames Path will provide the reader with an interesting, journalistic, and artistic picture of the history, beauty, and occasion that is associated with an area of the Thames Path that weaves its way through London both on the north and south banks of the river.

This journal primarily focuses on enjoying the wonderful walks along recognised routes following the path of the river Thames between Battersea Bridge and Tower Bridge, which are so often overlooked when visiting London. It also attempts to identify what I consider to be places of historical significance throughout each walk, such as the wonderful bridges that have contributed to the history of our capital, as well as a plethora of notable buildings that are located close to or are adjoining the Thames Path. To supplement each chapter, I also include a brief history of each borough and district that I pass and often identify the origins of interesting street names, which I hope will add a more historic flavour to the journey.

As an artist, I have endeavoured to capture within the narrative of this journal many illustrations in pen and wash, which will enlighten the reader who may decide either to walk this path or simply enjoy the summary in the comfort of an armchair. Each monochrome sketch, finished on Bristol Board, enabled me to use traditional art materials, such as a dipping pen and ink, and whetted my appetite to create the views with only black watercolour and creative tonal values. This basic but nevertheless important aspect of art has in fact rejuvenated my entire perception of composition, and hopefully my sketches will provide a realistic interpretation of their related subjects; being monochrome, they will inject a material quality that highlights the historical value as well as the aesthetic beauty of each subject.

Whilst experiencing the magic of discovering the Thames Path for the first time, albeit only in London, I constantly remind myself that the river itself has a thousand stories to tell apart from the views it offers on its journey to the sea.

Having spent a great deal of time researching each passage of my journey, I have resisted describing the enormous amount of technical information allied to the amazing architecture to be seen and simply focused on what I hope will be interesting information that will supplement the sketches which accompany the narrative.

My decision to choose a relatively short passage of the Thames Path is purely to enable me to capture the vibrancy and vitality of what I term the central London bridges for my sketchbook. I do realise, however, that the remaining bridges from Battersea to Richmond are equally as attractive as are the host of interesting buildings along this particular path of the Thames. Likewise, I am also aware there are scores of other interesting buildings to explore in addition to those I have chosen, but my aim was firstly to enjoy the physical challenge of the walk along the historical pavements of the Thames Path rather than to purely visit all the appealing sights that presented themselves; I have, in fact, visited all the buildings that have public access, and I can certainly recommend the reader to do likewise.

As I mentioned earlier, to paint a clearer picture of each area I walk, I have included a brief resume of the various districts that surround and follow the Thames Path throughout my journey. On one, and only one occasion, my walk took me away from the path itself to explore the district of Clerkenwell, simply because during my research for this journal, I discovered a significant part of my own family history which I wanted to share and which I hope the reader will enjoy. In the main, however, I have attempted to confine boroughs and districts within the margins of each episode. But this is not always possible, as invariably they overlap one another between the boundaries of each bridge, and I hope you will agree, once you have read the journal, that I do not detract from the chronicle of historical facts.

In addition to walking the Thames Path, I have also taken the opportunity to cruise the Thames on the London River Services many times, primarily on the commuter route where I have boarded at Chelsea Harbour and disembarked at Blackfriars. There are, of course, many other alternatives available on the Leisure River Services, which travel from Greenwich to Richmond; these are obviously dependent on summertime schedules.

On the numerous occasions where I have walked along the Thames Path in London, I have been amazed just how peaceful and secluded most areas have remained even in the summer months when tourists abound. During these walks, I have always been intrigued by the street names that I follow or simply just pass, and I have made every effort to research their origin. I have been equally fascinated by the ghostly stories from the past, which have presented themselves at each stage of my journey. Probably my best walks have been between December and March when I have selfishly experienced the joy of having parts of the Thames completely to myself.

Like most topographical paintings up until the eighteenth century, the subject matter of landscapes were not always seen as being the prime consideration for artists, as there were more saleable commissions to be considered – a great tragedy, as there were many great artists who could have provided a better artistic record of both the city and its landscapes up to that period.

Both modern and old street maps contribute in a big way to recognising the routes and passages of London, and I took great delight in researching and understanding the graphic views and maps from the past, which have proved to be the foundation of our modern atlases. I focused particularly on maps such as those compiled by Samuel and Nathaniel Buck (1749) who lived within the boundaries of the Temple and painted a panorama of Georgian London between Westminster and the Tower. Other wonderful pictures and maps include Rocque’s map of 1746; Canaletto and James Whistler’s beautiful views of the Thames, in particular Lambeth, Whitehall, and Westminster; Richard Horwood’s new map of London (1799); and Wencelas Hollar’s studies and drawings which form the framework of our great city both before and after the Great Fire. It would also be remiss of me not to mention Thomas Girtin’s Eidometropolis (1801), which I marvelled at when on display in London several years ago, and of course the works of J.M.W. Turner and many other great artists who produced wonderful illustrations and paintings; the list is endless and these are just a few names of past masters who have contributed in reproducing London in both a topographical and artistic form.

Following the advent of photographic equipment, landscapes became far more interesting, accessible, and affordable to the general public and subsequently opened the world for everyone to see. Detail was thus assured, but the opportunity to introduce some form of artistic licence declined slightly as a picture of the world was fast developing. Today, many forms and variations of art are readily available. I myself produce as many abstracts as I do photographic watercolours; however, when I wear both my artist’s and author’s cap, I believe that lifelike representational sketches are required. I personally enjoy researching my material as much as I do reproducing the subject matter on paper or canvas, as I consider that each process, when fused together, produces material evidence that will not only be of some interest to the reader but will also provide realistic evidence for future students who will no doubt recreate the splendour that we can enjoy today.

The%20Thames.jpg

The River Thames & London’s Thames Path

T he history of our nation owes much to the River Thames (whose name, according to one theory, originated from the Celtic word Temese , meaning dark) not simply for its commercial and industrial heritage over several millenniums, but also as a waterway of beauty for all to enjoy. This enormous channel of water evolved millions of years ago, and the landmass, which accommodated the Thames became segregated from the European mainland during the ice age twelve thousand years ago.

Today, the river flows from the Cotswolds (by way of ancient springs which, although not visible today, still remain) to the Thames estuary, in its 346-km journey through historical towns and cities such as Cheltenham, Ashdon Keynes, Oxford, Reading, Windsor, and Weybridge before entering London for its final passage to the North Sea. The river is also blessed with over seventy islands, many of which are enjoyed today, such as Canvey Island and Eel Pie Island.

The Thames River passage from the west is energized by almost forty tributaries before it eventually arrives at Teddington, where it then becomes tidal. From Teddington the remaining 89-km of river become a vibrant force controlled by nature, linking up with several other tributaries such as the Wandle, Fleet, Lea, and Deptford, all of which unite in its flow.

Interestingly enough, the combination of saltwater and freshwater contribute to the ecosystem of the river and combine to attract all species of bird and fish life. This abundance of wild life attracts cormorants, gulls, swans, geese, and mallards amongst many other species, as well as a variety of fish, which include eels, trout, roach, perch, pike, and even salmon. The first signs of returning salmon were discovered in the water filters serving the former power station, which today is the Tate Modern. Fish was a prosperous commodity on the Thames as late as the early nineteenth century, when there was an abundance of salmon. One historic catch by two watermen in 1784 recorded a 13.5-kg salmon landed close to Old London Bridge! Smelt, together with white bait and eels, were other varieties of tasty fish that were caught in abundance along this part of the Thames. The salmon season for the Thames ran from March to September in the early settlement days of the river, as the adult fish travelled up river from the North Sea. However, the adult smelt were the prime catch for London’s fishermen; this small, seasonal fish also made its way upriver and, like pilchards, moved in large shoals and were therefore caught much easier than the salmon. The most prominent districts for fishermen were Chelsea, Battersea, and Fulham, and once the catch had been made, the fish were immediately transported to central London. Fish stocks declined in the early nineteenth century, when the locks and weirs arrived, and they finally disappeared when the quality of water deteriorated dramatically due to sewage pollution. However, by the 1960s the fish had returned, including the smelt, and by the 1990s over one hundred species have been recorded.

Parts of the Thames Valley have been occupied for many thousands of years – long before the Romans decided to take residence – as many archaeological finds have proved. Even the Bronze Age men traded with foreign visitors long before the Romans arrived. The Romans were the first major settlers who realised the trade potential which the river had to offer and formed a major encampment which was thought to be very close to the existing London Bridge. Remarkably, the Romans discovered that if they used the rising tides systematically, their vessels would be swept 80-km inland along the Thames from the North Sea.

Between the tide times, the gravel beaches are exposed along the embankment; this occurs about every six hours. The uniqueness of seeing the ebb and flow in both directions makes London’s Thames special; not every city in the world with a river enjoys this spectacle. The power of the river is incredible; the tides are usually around 5 to 6 knots and have proved to be really beneficial for traders and sailors alike for many centuries.

Many castles were constructed along the route of the Thames, notably The Tower and Windsor Castle, during the eleventh century, and later, magnificent palaces such as Hampton Court, Whitehall, and Greenwich. Amazingly, the Thames itself originally consisted of groups of islands in the area we now know as London; in fact, the Anglo Saxon site around what is today Westminster Abbey was once an isolated island. In London, the Thames developed into a major port for trade and industry, which really prospered from the fifteenth century onwards; at one period, the Thames became the busiest river in the world.

The Thames has also created problems for its local inhabitants, as the risk of flooding has always been a concern. Even today, there are certain areas around the Thames flood plain which are considered dangerous. In the annals of history, heavy floods occurred in 1270, which damaged much of the land around London and eventually led to famine. There were also many occasions throughout history when the Thames became completely frozen, a phenomenon which lasted for months in some cases – the most memorable being in 1564, 1683, 1716, and 1740 – and created opportunities for local tradesmen. Frost Fairs, as they were known, were held on the Thames as late as 1814, whenever the opportunity arose, partly because the river tides were said to be less forceful than they are today. Once the river had frozen, crowds would make their way down to the ice and pitch tents and marquees, making the occasion quite a spectacular event. Bullrings were formed for public entertainment together with spit roasts fired up for the crowd to feast upon. Once Old London Bridge was pulled down in 1830, the fairs were no longer held; this was largely due to the dangerous tides, which were said to stop the thick layer of ice from forming.

High tides and winds have pushed the sea up the estuary for thousands of years, and Victorians once thought that they had a solution for this problem. They went about building embankments to alleviate the flooding, when, in fact, this defensive project only resulted in narrowing the river and thereby increasing its depth. Fortunately, in 1982, the Thames Barrier was constructed to deter abnormal flooding, and the barriers themselves are now raised several times each year to assist in protecting areas that are vulnerable.

The Thames has always been a supplier of water for London as well as a waste disposal vessel for sewage. By the 1600s, London had an insatiable need for water, and the common resources for this service relied upon natural water wells, which were fast becoming outdated. During this period, many adventurous schemes were devised to improve the situation. One idea was considered from a creative developer who devised a method of carrying water along a 65-km new river from Hertfordshire to London! During the Industrial Revolution of the nineteenth century, London’s population increased to around a million, and water was needed to sustain this growth once again. Together with the increase in population, there was also another major problem – that of waste disposal. Cesspits were developed, and, although not entirely perfect, they helped in some ways with improving conditions. Because there were relatively few cesspits, many of London’s population illegally connected their cesspit overflows to surface water drains, which emptied into the Thames. This proved disastrous, especially as the river then had a thriving fishing industry due to the relatively clean water available at that time. Outbreaks of cholera became common since 1832, and the Metropolitan Commission of Sewers was formed in 1848 to investigate the problems that London was facing. It wasn’t until 1858, however, that the