Discovering Denali: A Complete Reference Guide to Denali National Park and Mount Mckinley, Alaska

By Dow Scoggins

Preparing for a trip where the forecast is chance of sunshine, partly cloudy, rain, and possibly an earthquake is a daunting task. Discovering Denali is an all-inclusive tour guide to Denali National Park and Mount McKinley.

Find the secrets of Denali's treasures: The Denali Grand Slam-Dall sheep, caribou, moose and grizzly bears Arctic High Altitude Mountaineering Local festivals and events such as the Nenana Ice Classic and the Talkeetna Moose Dropping Festival The annual lottery to be allowed to drive the length of the park

Discovering Denali is a compendium of all things Denali, including hiking and climbing maps, summer and winter activities, wildlife, local towns, and state parks.

• Language: English
• Publisher: iUniverse
• Release date: Jan 4, 2004
• ISBN: 9780595750580

Dow Scoggins

Dow Scoggins is from Georgia. He began traveling the United States by bus when he was 16, by motorcycle when he was 20, and by car and airplane for the rest of his life. He has restored Pullman railroad cars, and owned a microbrewery that produced many internationally acclaimed beers. Today, he is married and raising three boys while working as a computer consultant and lecturing about Denali and Alaska.

Book preview

Chapter 1

History of

Denali National Park

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Many generations of native Athabascans wandered over the areas surrounding Denali long before Caucasians began to discover and explore it. These nomadic natives called the mountain, The High One, or Denali, and hunted the lowland hills of Denali’s northern reaches spring through fall for caribou, sheep, and moose. They preserved berries, netted fish, and gathered edible plants for winter. When snows began to fall, they migrated to lower elevations, closer to the river valley’s better protection from severe winter weather.

First Caucasian Sightings of the Mountain

In 1792, George Vancouver spotted the great mountain while surveying the Alaska coast. He described it as the great Snow Mountain, but did not name it.

In the 1800’s, Russian fur traders hunted and trapped in the Alaska frontiers. These traders called the mountain Bulshaia Gora, big mountain.

Mining Era

Nearly everyone has heard of the Bonanza Strike near Dawson City in the Yukon, and the rush of miners to make a fortune. However, most people are unaware of the booms and busts that occurred within the current boundaries of Denali National Park and Preserve, in a place now known simply as Kantishna. (In fact, in 1889, one of the earliest prospectors, Frank Densmore, wrote such an enthusiastic description of Denali the Yukon prospectors named the mountain after him. For years, Denali was known to Caucasians as Densmore Mountain).

In the summer of 1903, the main brunt of the gold rush in the Yukon was over and hundreds of prospectors were out of work. Coincidentally, Yukon District Judge James Wickersham and four others took the summer as an opportunity to explore the region around the great mountain, with the intention of being the first to summit. Unsuccessful in that realm, they were successful in discovering gold just north of base of Denali. Their claims captured the attention of the unemployed prospectors in Fairbanks, and the rush to Denali and the Kantishna Hills began.

Two men who figured prominently in the Kantishna Hills mining history were Joseph Dalton and Joseph Quigley. In 1904, Dalton’s party successfully prospected the Toklat River Basin. A year later, Joe Quigley and his partner, Jack Horn, found gold in paying quantities in Glacier Creek. After staking the creeks, they carried the news back to Fairbanks. Within weeks, thousands of gold seekers found their way up the Tanana, Kantishna and Bearpaw Rivers; mining towns sprang up overnight. Eureka, a summer mining camp centrally located near active pay streaks, was one. These areas and towns are located within 30 miles of the base of Denali.

Within six months the ‘easy pickings’ were gone and the rush was over. Miners left in droves, leaving behind less than 50 inhabitants. Some ventured into hard-rock mining: silver, lead, zinc and antimony. However, transportation problems plagued the success of this mining district; there were no roads to get equipment in and out of the mines.

Three events lead to re-opening the mines 30 years later: President Franklin Roosevelt raised the price of gold to $15/ounce, the park road was completed and the post-depression era produced cheap labor. Central to this second boom was the development of the Banjo Mine on Quigley Ridge, which was the first commercial-scale lode gold milling operation that eventually become the fourth largest lode mine in the Yukon Basin. This golden era came to an end with the coming of World War II.

Mining activity increased again in the 1970s; there was no longer a gold standard and prices soared. By the mid-1980s, the Kantishna gold mining district ranked 27th in the state for overall production of gold; nearly 100,000 ounces had been extracted from these hills.

Today, very little remains at the sites of the old towns that flourished nearly 100 years ago. Today, activity in the Kantishna Mining District has shifted to different gold mine: tourism. Only the town of Eureka, now called Kantishna, is left to remind us of those golden years not so long ago.

The Park’s Creation

The park was originally established to protect its large mammals. Charles Sheldon conceived the plan to conserve the region as a national park because hunters were killing the caribou and Dall sheep in the area to feed the miners in the Kantishna Hills Mining Area. Naturalist, hunter, and conservationist, Sheldon first traveled here in 1906 and again in 1907 with a packer and guide named Harry Karstens. (Karstens later made the first ascent of Denali’s south peak and served as the park’s first superintendent.) Sheldon devoted much of his 1907 travels to studying boundaries for the proposed national park, which would include territories suitable for a game refuge. When Sheldon returned to the East in 1908, the Game Committee of the Boone and Crockett Club, which he chaired, launched the campaign to establish a national park. Largely due to these efforts, Mount McKinley National Park was established in 1917. Its populations of Dall sheep, caribou and other wildlife were now legislatively protected. However, Mount McKinley itself was not wholly included within the boundaries. Sheldon wanted to call the park Denali, but his suggestion would not be followed until 1980. That year the boundary was expanded to include the Denali caribou herds wintering and calving grounds and the entire Mount McKinley massif. More than tripled in size, the park became Denali National Park and Preserve.

The Mountain’s Name

Denali (The High One) is the Native American word for North America’s highest peak. Denali rises 20,320 feet (6,194m) in the mountain chain called the Alaska Range. Denali was renamed Mount McKinley for William McKinley, a nominee for president, by the Princeton graduate and gold prospector, William Dickey. Dickey was one of the hundreds of prospectors seeking gold in the 1896 Cook Inlet stampede. He wrote an article for the New York Sun where he described the mountain as the highest in North America at over 20,000 feet.

Since the turn of the 19th century, the official name of this great mountain has not rested in peace. In 1914, following his historic first ascent of the mountain in 1913, Hudson Stuck wrote in the preface of his book The Ascent of Denali: Forefront in this book, because forefront in the author’s heart and desire, must stand a plea for the restoration to the greatest mountain in North America of its immemorial native name.

The State of Alaska Board of Geographic Names has also officially changed the mountain’s name back to Denali, but the United States National Geographical Society still recognizes the mountain’s name as Mount McKinley(Author’s note: I agree with Hudson Stuck, and have reserved the right to call the mountain Denali, after its true heritage, in this book).

What Is Denali’s True Height

On June 21, 1989, a team of researchers and support climbers reached the summit of Denali. They carried a Global Positioning System receiver that when used in conjunction with a Global Positioning Satellite, measures geographical heights. Preliminary indications show the elevation of Denali to be 14’ lower than the height previously measured by more traditional survey methods. The newly computed height of 20,306’ remains the official height of Denali. According to one of the park’s rangers, the National Geographic Society still prints 20,230 feet because it would be too much trouble changing all its maps.

Regardless, it’s one big mountain.

Chapter 2

Driving and Transportation to the Park

When Denali National Park was created in 1917, only a few visitors came to see it. Most of the people in the park were rangers or miners on their way to the Kantishna Mining Area. Since no roads or railways had been built to the park entrance, a visitor almost had to blaze his own trail to get in. But in 1924, the Alaska Railway completed its run from Anchorage to Denali to Fairbanks, and a total of 62 visitors came to the park that year. In 1970, the George Parks Highway was completed to parallel the railroad, allowing visitors to drive directly to Denali instead of going around the Alaska Range. In the early years, the railroad was the easiest way to the park. Today, you can reach the park by car, shuttle bus, airplane, even bicycle. Over 300,000 visitors come during the summer months, while another 100,000 visit the rest of the year.

Driving:

Driving to the park from Anchorage can take hours, days, or even weeks, depending on your preference. This 240-mile drive has numerous state parks to explore, recreational areas to discover, streams and rivers to fish, mountains to hike and towns to visit. If you want to drive, renting a car is easy. Most major car rental agencies are in the Anchorage International Airport. Several RV or motor home rentals are also available. However, some rented cars and RVs are not allowed to go off the major roads, plan your trip accordingly.

Adventurous Route:

Adventurers can drive to Denali from the lower 48 via Seattle or via the Yukon Territory. If you drive to Seattle or Vancouver, you can catch an Alaska Marine Highway Ferry, which will transport your car or RV to Anchorage. Or you can take the long way via the Alaska Highway, and drive through Canada’s British Columbia and Yukon Territory. Once you enter Alaska via the Yukon Territory, you will take the Denali Highway directly into the park. Buying a publication called The Milepost is highly recommended for exploring Alaska and the Yukon in a car or RV.

Fastest Route:

The quickest way to Denali National Park from Anchorage is to hire a small plane and land right at the entrance of the park. The term small plane usually means a single prop plane, which may hold one to six people depending on the amount of luggage.

Relaxing and Historic Route:

The most relaxing and historic way to get to Denali National Park from Anchorage or Fairbanks is by the Alaska Railroad, named the best railroad trip in the United States by America’s Best Online.

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Alaska Railroad

In 1914, Congress allocated monies to build a railway from Anchorage to Fairbanks, three years before Denali National Park existed. Eight long years later, President Warren G. Harding visited the town of Nenana to drive a golden spike in the railway, signifying the completion of the Alaska Railroad. In 1924, the railroad’s first full year of service, the railroad brought a total of 62 passengers to see the grandeur of Denali National Park. Today, the Alaska Railroad brings hundreds of thousands passengers to see Denali every year.

The Anchorage-Denali-Fairbanks Train

The Anchorage-Denali-Fairbanks train has passenger cars, a vista-domed coach and a dining car. During the ride to Denali, conductors and guides share the history of the area and provide tourist information. The train operates daily during the summer months and less frequently during the off-season.

Daily passenger service operates between Anchorage, Denali and Fairbanks from mid-May through mid-September. The remainder of the year, weekend service operates between Anchorage and Fairbanks

Alaska Railroad’s express trains depart Anchorage for Fairbanks (or Fairbanks for Anchorage) each morning, arriving at Denali National Park in the early afternoon and reaching their final destination in the evening. These Express Trains operate with stops (only for reserved passengers) at Wasilla and Talkeetna before arriving at Denali National Park. Reservations are required for the Express Trains.

Alaska Railroad’s local trains depart Anchorage for Hurricane Gulch and return three times weekly, making all station and flag stops at intermediate points. These local trains are ideal for fishermen, campers, and hikers, as they will stop anywhere along the route, giving passengers more travel flexibility. Reservations are also required for the trains (See Instructions for Flagging a Train for more details).

Prices

Pricing is based on Peak and Value seasons. Peak season is June 5 to September 4; Value season is May 16 to June 4 and September 5 to 19.

Fairbanks to Anchorage via Denali departs Fairbanks 8:15 AM and arrives Denali National Park 12 noon. Fare $224 peak season $177 value season (per person, double occupancy) at the time of this printing.

Fairbanks to Denali and Return departs Fairbanks 8:15 AM and arrives Denali National Park 12 noon. Fare $181 peak season $139 value season per person/double occupancy at the time of this printing.

There is no extra charge for stopovers in Denali, however there is a charge for stopovers at other stations on the Express Train.

Baggage: Each adult is allowed two pieces of baggage with a combined total up to 150 lbs. Children are allowed 75 lbs. of baggage. Excess baggage may be checked with payment of excess baggage rates. Bicycles are transported via the EXPRESS trains under Excess Baggage Rules at $20 each per station.

For information concerning schedules and fares, write: The Alaska Railroad, Passenger Services Dept. ATG, P.O. Box 107500, Anchorage, AK 99510, or call 907-265-2494. For reservations, you may write the above address or telephone [phone]. Phones are answered only during regular office hours, 8 AM to 5 PM, Monday to Friday.

Dining Car

The railway’s diner cars have a casual, relaxed atmosphere. No reservations are required and all food is prepared onboard. A wide selection of beverages and desserts is available.

Entree Samples:

McKinley Breakfast-Scrambled eggs, Canadian bacon or reindeer sausage with country style potatoes and toast.

Bird Creek Chicken Sandwich-Grilled marinated chicken breast topped with cheddar cheese, greens, Roma tomatoes and honey Dijon dressing on a French baguette with chips.

Polychrome Pass-A rainbow of fresh fruit served with yogurt and pastry or roll of your choice.

Indian River Sandwich-Reindeer sausage with grilled onion and bell pepper, topped with Swiss cheese on a French baguette with chips.

Bristol Bay Grill-Pan seared salmon fillet with roasted red pepper aioli, accompanied with rice pilaf and fresh vegetable sauté.

Private Rail Cars

If you want to add a little luxury to your trip, two of Alaska’s premier tour companies have private rail cars that operate between Anchorage and Fairbanks. These cars are towed by the Alaska Railroad but offer a unique kind of rail experience.

Princess’ Midnight Sun Express ULTRA DOME rail packages depart from Anchorage or Fairbanks and include overnight accommodations at the new Mt. McKinley Princess Lodge, Denali Princess Lodge, or both. You travel to Princess’ riverside retreats aboard the private, fully domed Midnight Sun Express railcars featuring the largest domed ceilings on any railcars in Alaska; fine dining is available with meals prepared to order by our on-board chefs and large outdoor viewing platforms. A variety of tours are offered featuring Princess’ unique riverside lodges and exclusive ULTRA DOME railcars. Call 800-8358907 for reservations.

The McKinley Explorer has private domed railcars and operates daily. Luxury seating is available upstairs with private bar and elegant dining room downstairs. Service from mid-May through mid-September. For reservations call 1-800-544-2206 or write: Gray Line of Alaska, 300 Elliott Avenue West, Seattle, WA 98119.

Instructions for flagging a train

Flagging allows the backpacker, hunters, and fisherman to hike the backcountry of Alaska and board the train anywhere along the route. You must make special arrangements to flag a train if you want it to actually stop.

Instructions

Stand 25 feet outside the nearest rail with your gear. Wave a large piece of white cloth over your head until the Engineer acknowledges you by sounding the train whistle. Remain 25 feet away from the track until the conductor opens the door and motions you to board. Restrain your pets on a leash while the train is approaching or passing. Please use extreme caution at all times. (Flag Stop Service available on Anchorage-Fairbanks and Anchorage-Hurricane route only!)

Summer Railroad Schedule

Anchorage~Denali ~Fairbanks

(Fares

One-way Rail Fare, per person

Peak Season June 3~September 4,2000

Value Season May 13~June 2 & September 5~23, 2000

Child (age 2-11) fares are 50% of adult rates.

Full service dining car and gift shop onboard.

Baggage Service available

ANCHORAGE ~ SEWARD

Daily Service May 13-Sept. 10, 2000

Anchorage to Seward round-trip-$86, one way $50

Children’s fares are 50% of adult rates.

Rail Fare, per person

Anchorage to Whittier round-trip-$52

Anchorage to Whittier one-way-$26. Hand carry baggage only.

Winter Train Schedule

Runs Every Saturday Except 12/25 and 1/1