Cycling in Europe - An Illustrated Hand-Book of Information for the use of Touring Cyclists: Containing also Hints for Preparation, Suggestions Concerning Baggage, Expenses, Routes, Hotels, and a List of Famous Cycling Tours in England, Ireland, France, Switzerland, Germany and Holland
By F. A. Elwell
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Cycling in Europe - An Illustrated Hand-Book of Information for the use of Touring Cyclists - F. A. Elwell
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CYCLING IN EUROPE.
I.
THE SUBJECT IN OUTLINE.
EUROPE THE GREAT CYCLING GROUND OF THE WORLD—ITS ATTRACTIONS TO THE TOURIST—OBJECT OF THIS VOLUME—THE ROUTE—ITS IMPORTANCE—GENERAL REMARKS—ROUTES SUGGESTED—IRELAND: CORK, DUBLIN, BELFAST AND THE ANTRIM COAST—SCOTLAND: ITS RUGGED BEAUTY, THE BIG CITIES, LAKES AND TROSSACHS, MELROSE ABBEY, ABBOTSFORD—ENGLAND: QUAINT VILLAGES AND MAGNIFICENT ESTATES, THE ENGLISH LAKES AND MOUNTAINS, GREEN LANES, HEDGEROWS, STATELY HOMES AND THATCHED COTTAGES—LONDON A WORLD IN ITSELF—ROUTES ACROSS THE CHANNEL—FRANCE: FINE ROADS, NUMEROUS ATTRACTIONS, ROMAN REMAINS, MINERAL SPRINGS—SWITZERLAND: THE MOUNTAIN PASSES, LONG GRADES AND EXHILARATING COASTS, LAKES OF BLUE AND MOUNTAINS OF SNOW, GOOD HOTELS—ITALY, GERMANY AND HOLLAND—ATTRACTIONS FOR THE TOURIST—BEST MONTHS TO VISIT THESE COUNTRIES AND WHAT TO SEE.
OF all portions of the world, Europe offers the best field for the use and enjoyment of the bicycle. Nowhere else is there such a variety of nationalities, manners, customs, languages and natural scenery so compactly joined to each other; or so great a number of magnificent cities, filled with the rarest treasures of art and architecture. And all these countries and cities are traversed by the finest highways in the world, enabling the tourist to wheel thousands of miles amid the most enjoyable surroundings. Every country is replete with historic interest, and no day’s run
is without its full quota of attractions.
For all these reasons it is not remarkable that wheelmen of the United States look forward to a European tour as the crowning pleasure of their cycling lives, and spend many hours planning ways and means to bring about a realization of this desire.
It is in the hope of giving useful information to L. A. W. members contemplating a cycle tour in Europe that this little book has been written.
It is realized that it is likely to be read by persons of widely varying tastes, and of different grades of ability to gratify these tastes: the man of ample means and leisure; the man to whom time is of more importance than the mere expenditure of money, and who desires to accomplish as much as possible in a limited period; the man who has more time than money; and the man whose time and money are both limited. It is this latter and most numerous class whose interests will be especially considered in the following pages.
THE ROUTE.
This is by far the most important matter in the preparation for the tour. In a brief summer vacation, only a very small part of Europe can be traversed by the cycling tourist, and too much care and thought cannot be given to make his route include that best worth seeing. The taste of the individual will have much to do in this connection. If he is an admirer of Scott and Burns, he has long ago determined that the land o’ cakes
is surely to be visited; if a lover of music, he has planned to give Germany a particularly large share of time; if of art, the cities of Italy hold forth attractions not to be resisted. What pleasure loving American thinks of omitting gay and beautiful Paris from his route; and as for England, it is a country so full of all that we have heard and read about since we could hear or read anything, that to pass it by would to the student seem like the play of Hamlet with Hamlet omitted.
COACH ROAD AT DERRYNANE, IRELAND.
But leaving out the specialists, there still remains a large class who have no particular desire to visit one country more than another, and who are waiting till their summer trip is over before deciding what they think the most attractive spots.
The writer, in his many trips abroad, has naturally formed his judgment of the various lands he has visited, and even though he may not always agree with others who have been over the same ground, he has written here the honest opinions of one who considers himself an average American in his tastes and ideas, especially since he has found them to correspond with the opinions of the larger part of his fellow countrymen in whose company these trips have been made. Our impressions of the exterior appearance of the various countries will be briefly given in the order in which they are usually visited.
Ireland.—Not one American in a hundred halts at Londonderry or Queenstown on his trip abroad. He either thinks Ireland not worth visiting or that he will take it in on his return. But the return is often made with no time or money to spare for the Emerald Isle, and so he never sees its beauties. For, truth to tell, Ireland possesses attractions all its own, that cannot be rivaled in Great Britain or on the Continent.
ON THE UPPER LAKE, KILLARNEY.
No finer trip for a wheelman can be found than that through counties Cork and Kerry, including the Prince of Wales’ route to the Lakes of Killarney via Glengarriff and the foaming fjords of Kerry. It is a microcosm of all that is beautiful in nature. The ride from Cork to Dublin is replete with interest, and, should you land at Londonderry, you will, after visiting the Giant’s Causeway, do well to wheel down the grand Antrim Coast road to Belfast. This road runs close to the Irish Sea for many miles and affords as fine a day’s run as can well be imagined.
THROUGH AN IRISH VILLAGE.
To one landing, as did the writer, at Queenstown in the early spring, only ten days from the bleak shores of New England, in the month of April, the softness of the air, the vivid green of the velvety lawns and the general semi-tropical aspect of everything was most surprising and delightful. To wheel over the gorse bordered highways is a decided novelty and to dash about the streets of Cork and Dublin on a pneumatic tired jaunting-car (Ireland was the birthplace of the pneumatic tire), with a glib tongued driver, is an experience one would not care to