Captain Mark's Way

By Captain Mark Denebeim

True Caribbean Stories and Reflections of a Sailing Captain. From the Virgin Islands to Grenada, enjoy over 30 years of Caribbean madness as only a Charter Boat captain can recall, with photos. Contemplate 16 "One Page Wonders," presented to help view life and it's challenges. Everyone has their own way, this is Captain Mark's!

This is the only legacy of a young sailor who fell in love with the Caribbean at age 21. No one is spared from the multitude of "drinkin and stinkin" tales he experienced and witnessed ever since.

Captain Mark lives in Thailand today on his catamaran, creating new sailing stories at this very moment. He is very single and has no kids...that he knows of!

"I hope they serve beer in Davey Jones locker cuz that's where I'm headed when my Mother reads this book!"--Captain Mark

• Language: English
• Publisher: Captain Mark Denebeim
• Release date: May 29, 2013
• ISBN: 9781301658572

Book preview

Map of the Caribbean Sea

Book Jacket

Who the Hell is Captain Mark?

Captain Mark Denebeim is a native Californian who cut his sailing teeth on the strong currents and high winds of San Francisco Bay. Born in The City and raised in San Anselmo, just ten miles north in Marin County—when Marin was considered the coolest county on the planet—Captain Mark has had some wicked fun during his life.

In 1979, primarily the 21st year of his existence, Captain Mark earned his United States Coast Guard Captains License, his PADI Scuba certification, and a four year college degree where he wrote a 99 page thesis entitled Marijuana and Alcohol, Their Symbiotic Relationship in Society and Politics. He also managed to star in a dramatic stage performance, hitchhike around Mexico, Belize and Guatemala, compete in the International Windsurfing Championships, break his toe on a dock cleat, sail from Tampa to Tortola, sneak onto then jump overboard on cruise ships, steal the life ring off the tender to a USS nuclear aircraft carrier, and fall in love…with the Caribbean Sea.

Thus began a lifetime love affair and remarkable sailing journey through the beauty and majesty of the Caribbean islands…nah, it’s 30 years of booze, broads and sailing yarns as only Captain Mark recalls them , and they are all 100% true. I hope they serve beer in Davey Jones Locker because that’s where I’m headed when my Mom reads this book!

Captain Mark is a huge lifelong San Francisco Giants baseball fan—the 2010 AND 2012 World Champs!! He has also been obsessed at some point with Santana, Hendrix, Zepplin, The Who, Linkin Park, Red Hot Chili Peppers, INXS and the Stones. He is very single, lives between Delray Beach, FL and Picard, Dominica, (see www.SyndicateFalls.com) or on his current obsession, the Island Spirit 37 catamaran Sanctuary, somewhere in the Caribbean. He has no children…that he knows of!

For more Caribbean madness and photos see www.CaptainMark’sWay.com. Thanks for buying this book; I hope you enjoy reading it half as much as I enjoyed living it. Peace, Captain Mark

Captain’s Preface

Captain Mark Explains Why He Wrote Captain Mark’s Way

Dear Reader:

What follows is not a work of art, not in a literary sense anyway, nor is it meant to appeal to everyone as that would be folly. If it’s true that all we take with us when we pass are memories, then this memoir is simply the partial legacy of one man with a lot of time on his hands. Captain Mark’s time in the Caribbean has occupied only a small part of his life, though its impact is obvious and profound. How is this possible, you may ask, in a part of the world known for lewd and lascivious behavior, and a whole lot of drinkin’ and stinkin’ goin’ on?

Of one thing you can be sure; it is all true, every word, every lie. Not all of the following stories have made me, or my Mother, proud, nor am I ashamed of anything found herein. Sometimes you gotta laugh at yourself, and once in awhile you screw up. But looking back, it turns into a good laugh and humorous tale when you need an anecdote or a dose of reality. And sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do. After all, I am what I am, that’s all that I am, I’m Captain Mark, the sailor man!

This book is unique in that it mixes tall tales and off beat adventures with introspective and logical philosophies all in one book. What that should indicate beyond any shadow of a doubt, is that the author adheres to that basic of all paths to inner peace: Don’t take yourself so seriously; no one else does.

So try not to take every part of this book seriously. Just because it is all true, doesn’t mean you have to judge, or criticize or analyze. Let it be whatever it is at the time you read it, and hopefully, you will find parts interesting and entertaining. If I didn’t think it would be these things, I never would have written them down, and I most certainly would not have lived them in the first place.

I wrote this book because friends had been encouraging me to write about my time in the Caribbean and, separately, about my One Page Wonders (Philosophies). They all said I like your Way. Thus, I combined the two into one book and tried to make it flow seamlessly…or at least not look too bad side by side. If you don’t like what you read, blame those who are really behind this conspiracy, not me. When you find them, let me know…

Most of you reading this book are either related to me or are mentioned in the book and just love to see yourself in print (see One Page Wonder Two). Or it was free and you are locked in a padded cell somewhere…actually it would have to be both: the padded cell and its free. Not everyone will like what I recall or agree with what I share, but there is truly something for everyone. The first half of the book has more ribald and crazy stories than the second half (which is more of a cruising log of my more recent travels), though there are still plenty of wildlights throughout for you to enjoy.

If perception is reality, then perceive this to be a good read, and you can’t help but enjoy it. Why not laugh and contemplate when the opposite is nothing but a waste of time. There—have I prepped you enough? Then start reading!

I had to ask myself: Why would anyone want to read about some guy’s stories… everyone’s got stories. When you figure it out, let me know, I’ll be around sailing somewhere…making more of them.

Everyone has their own way, this is Captain Mark’s!

In addition to www.CaptainMarksway.com and www.oceanbreezetours.com, be sure to visit Captain Mark’s Dominica web sites: www.SyndicateFalls.com and www.BarbWireBar.com and register on line to join his newest business featuring All-Inclusive Luxury Match Making Holidays in Paradise at www.ParadiseMatch.com "Love Play Paradise in the U.S. and British Virgin Islands. And like"—and comment on—all of our pages on Facebook and Twitter!

Life is Short?

Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming Wow! What a Ride!"

—Hunter S. Thompson

Captain Mark’s One Page Wonders

Interspersed among the chapters of this book are some of Captain Mark’s unconventional but straightforward philosophies for you, dear reader, to ponder, contemplate and wonder about. One of Captain Mark’s favorite books is Dune, by Frank Herbert, a science fiction trilogy written in the 1960’s, featuring short philosophical quotes pertaining to the chapter that followed.

One such example: Fear is the mind killer precedes the chapter involving young Paul Atreides’ lessons of hand to hand combat as taught by the android Duncan Idaho. In other words, once you let fear enter your thoughts, you have lost the battle. I recall this quote often, especially when sailing solo offshore where maintaining composure and focus is vitally important to getting things done efficiently and safely…if I was to let fear enter the picture, it would only make the task more difficult and perhaps more dangerous.

While I don’t have enough One Page Wonders, as I like to call them, to precede every chapter, I have developed some thought provoking quotes and insights that may help you perceive life differently from your usual vantage point. Guests on my Caribbean charters often ask, What would you like me to leave here with aside from the great sailing, fun beach bars and shopping? My standard answer to everyone is: That you leave here willing to open your mind to the infinite perceptions of your life that your brain is capable of creating. In other words, that you let your wonderful active brain perceive your current life from a multitude of vantage points. Why not look at your life from many different perspectives, why limit yourself to the same routine day in and day out? All you are doing is cheating yourself if you don’t at least examine different evaluations of your current patterns; and a brain is a terrible thing to waste!

There is actual scientific evidence that this approach is beneficial to a longer more fulfilling life. Just like exercise for your physical condition extends and improves the quality of your life, so does utilizing your brain in various alternative ways help keep that muscle from atrophying. A brain surgeon of 25 years experience once told me that your brain actually grows and retains a healthier glow when you think outside the box and mentally explore ideas different from your usual thought patterns. He explained that by retaining the same thoughts and routines is akin to drawing a figure 8 in the sand with your finger, over and over. You feel like you are getting somewhere, but are actually in a constrained and predictable pattern. And to make matters worse, you are digging a rut in the sand; the more you draw the 8, the deeper you are making a hole that will be difficult to work your way out of.

When you allow your thoughts to deviate from the norm, you might realize that you have a great life, not a boring mundane routine one that you have been considering a change…or conversely, you might see your life as going in circles (or 8’s) with limited pleasure and that it’s time for something different. But you will never know unless you turn your brain loose and see what spills out. Many people do not even realize the type of lifestyle available to them in the Caribbean; full of simplicity, beauty and grace. That awareness alone could open the door to the limitless vantage points available for you to observe your regular life, which could then change it for eternity. So go for it!

For your FREE online booklet of Captain Mark’s One Page Wonders, click here if this is an eBook, or visit www.CaptainMarksWay.com/onepagewonders and download it there.

1978

Captain Mark’s First Time

There are three primary time frames when I travelled to the Caribbean on what I call Caribbean Walkabouts—to find out what it’s all about (Red Hot Chili Peppers Walkabout.) The first began in 1979 (ending in 1981) after graduating from Claremont McKenna College; the second was in 2006 when I chartered a 42’ yacht for 40 days and 40 nights aboard Captain Mark’s Ark; and the third in 2010-2012 aboard Sanctuary, my Island Spirit 37 catamaran.

But none of the stories and memoirs you are about to read would have happened, perhaps, if not for a particular friend or relative—who has vehemently requested anonymity—that I will call Fred. I owe it all to Fred, my love for the Caribbean that is, because it was his (or her) gift of a round trip plane ticket from Los Angeles to Mexico City in September, 1978 that first introduced me to the sparkling blue green waters and palm tree lined beaches of the Caribbean Sea. It was for my 21st birthday, and the only catch was that I had to take him, or her, along with me.

Fred was also in college, so we decided to head south during the upcoming three week Christmas semester break. The plan was to land in Mexico City, check it out for a day or two, and travel east for the Yucatan Peninsula and the beaches of Isla des Mujeres, Cancun and Tulum. Oblivious to the dangers and foreign nature of our surroundings, we hitchhiked and rode buses throughout Mexico and into Belize and finally Guatemala, where I flew back to Los Angeles and Fred would resume his quest for a higher education elsewhere.

Before travelling east to the Caribbean and the Gulf coast, the lure of Palenque and the Mayan ruins, and the magic mushrooms, caught our attention. Hitching out of Mexico City, we were picked up by a nice couple from New Jersey, celebrating some kind of dating or wedding anniversary, who dropped us off in the center of the charming town with nothing but our back packs and our wide eyed sense of adventure.

Fred speaks fluent Spanish which helped to quickly discern our way to the ruins. Once there, we purchased some mushrooms and hiked into the mysterious caverns and buildings left behind by a race of people that were never found or heard from again.

Fred has never been known to handle drugs or large quantities of alcohol very well. Just the summer before, while traveling together through Europe by hitching and by rail, I thought he had died in a Toledo gas station rest room from too much Sangria on our way through Spain. Another time I thought he was a goner while hiking the hills of Arosa, Switzerland when a sudden hail storm trapped us and he laid bed ridden with hypothermia! Still another time was just the year before in a quaint French town called Chateau Thierry, about 85 miles east of Paris in the famous champagne region of Rheims. There we partied hard, with Fred overdosing on the local bubbly, while we crashed in the loft of the champagne grower’s vineyard barn with some neighborhood kids. It was so bad that he hasn’t gone near a glass of champagne since!

We enjoyed the mushroom buzz for an hour or two, but Fred was now green and I knew it was time to get to town, find a place to sleep and take care of my little buddy. Once back in the town square, we ran into our New Jersey friends who told us that if we couldn’t find a crash pad, we could stay in their hotel room with them—-a very gracious offer to be sure.

After several futile attempts at securing lodging, and with Fred about to explode, we knocked on their door just after 9pm and burst our way in. Fred immediately went to their bathroom and spent the entire night utilizing the toilet, sink, shower, tub and more toilet. He slept in the shower while I slept on the bedroom floor at the foot of the romantic couple’s bed, who certainly regretted their offer by now!

The next morning we left Palenque with fond memories of the ruins and with Fred dragging 10 fewer pounds around. Hitch hiking was easier than we expected and we quickly caught a ride to Merida, a picturesque seaside port town known for making the world’s best hammocks. After a quick walk through the shops and marina we left for Chichen Itza and slept just outside the ruins in a corn field.

After touring the ruins, we eventually arrived at the coast, where we caught a ferry to Isla des Mujeres; The Island of Women. This is where I first fell in love with the Caribbean waters and the friendly people of the region. And I had to find out if that name was accurate or not.

We found a hostel type of lodge called Las Hamacas where all guests slept in hammocks in a communal room for $2 per night. The local food was also good and cheap and we were in heaven. We snorkeled in a forgettable roped off area called Garrafon Natural Reef Park where they required us to wear restrictive life vests in only 8 feet of water! I took mine off so many times that they asked us to leave. We also hitched a ride with some American tourists all around the tiny but adorable island. It was magnificent!

Leaving regrettably after 3 or 4 days, (with not too many sightings of women by the way,) we bypassed commercial Cancun and spent the day in Tulum, known for opal and silver jewelry and beach side camping spots. While in Isla Mujeres, I managed to acquire what was once called a lid of marijuana, a mild drug that I smoked from time to time. (Fred never tried even one hit, and I don’t think he has ever since!)

We then caught a ride on what is typically called a chicken bus headed for Belize, sitting in the next to last row in the back. The bus was packed with locals and crates of live chickens. Fred turned to me and asked if I thought it was a good idea to bring the weed across the border.

No, I agreed, but what should I do with it? I didn’t want to see it go to waste by throwing it out of the bus, so I smoked one joint with my head out the window while I contemplated this rather important dilemma. I figured that if I wanted to have some herb on the other side of the border, I would have to roll two big fatties and tuck them gently into each cuff of my Levi 501 blue jeans. I then proceeded to chew and swallow the rest of the leafy local grass with a ripe orange—to help wash it down—until it was all gone.

Several minutes later, the immense quantity of THC took effect and I was laughing at everything Fred said while trying to communicate with the quiet farmers and workers in broken Spanish. Fred just looked out the window and sighed—what could he do? And then the border appeared ahead.

We all disembarked and stood in line passing our bags to the tall black customs agents behind the long low counter. The cultural change from Mexico to Belize is especially dramatic in the look of the people and the architecture. When it was my bag’s turn to be searched, I stood before a 7’ tall black man with a huge afro. I broke out in uncontrollable laughter and said to Fred; Look, it’s Kareem Abdul-Jabbar! (Remember; this was back in 1978!)

I was laughing so hard they begrudgingly ushered us out to the Belize side of the building where we sat down on the front steps so I could pull myself together. About 30 minutes later, Fred asked if I was OK to travel. I thought I might be, but remembered first to open the cuffs of my jeans and look for the joints. Neither one contained the large spliffs I had put there prior to leaving the bus. That meant they were either on the bus or in the customs building or both. We decided NOW would be a good time to high tail out of there!

After playing some outdoor basketball with the not very talented locals in Belize City, we took a bus to Guatemala and enjoyed Lake Atitlan and Chichicastenago without incident before ending our journey in Guatemala City. Fred went on to adventures unknown and I flew back to Claremont and started making plans to return to the Caribbean sometime soon after I graduated in May, 1979.

What follows are the highlights and the wildlights (I invented that word!) of over 30 years of what I call Captain Mark’s Way—all thanks to my friend/relative/boy/girl that I call Fred. Wherever you are right now, little buddy, here is a toast of bubbly and a big THANKS to you!

One Page Wonder One:

Life is a Book, and YOU are the Author

I like to read books, and now I have written one. (See the list of my favorite books in Appendix F.) If you look at your life as if it’s a book, and you are the author, you should be able to create a masterpiece. As you turn each page, your life unfolds before you, and as the author, the story is totally up to you. So why not make it an interesting fascinating book filled with diverse and powerful chapters? No one else is writing your book of life, (unless you let someone else and then, by definition, you are still the author), so grasp the bull by the horns and make it a good read. This is your legacy; it is your life as you design and live it.

The beautiful part of writing a book is that there are chapters, so if you don’t like the chapter you are living, turn the page and start a new one. What are you afraid of? It’s your life, make it happen! No excuses, no drama, no problems. If you let others influence your