Columbia River Gorge Railroads
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About this ebook
D.C. Jesse Burkhardt
Photojournalist D.C. Jesse Burkhardt's roots in the Columbia River Gorge run deep. From 1994 until 2011, he served as editor of the Enterprise--the community newspaper in White Salmon, Washington, in the heart of the gorge--and his daughter was born at White Salmon's Skyline Hospital. Over the years, Burkhardt has lived in several gorge communities, including White Salmon, Northwestern Lake, and Snowden in Washington and The Dalles and Hood River in Oregon.
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Columbia River Gorge Railroads - D.C. Jesse Burkhardt
XSI.
INTRODUCTION
Railroads caught my spirit when I was a kid growing up near an east-west mainline in southern Michigan. The route that went past my boyhood home was a fast, modern Penn Central freight line that stretched from my hometown of Jackson, Michigan, to Elkhart, Indiana. There was something magical about standing alongside those tracks in Jackson, feeling the wind in my face and seeing the distant twinkle of an emerald signal light as the rails reached westbound toward an unknown horizon.
One summer, I experienced an unusual connection with the steel rails. On the afternoon of July 3, 1974, I was hiking in Owosso, Michigan, where an east-west mainline of the Grand Trunk Western (GTW) paralleled the tracks of the Ann Arbor Railroad. Only a short strip of tall weeds separated the two routes. With the July 4 holiday looming, the tracks of both carriers rested silent and still. As dusk approached, I cut through waist-high weeds, clambered up the GTW’s roadbed, and looked to the west. There was a red signal shining in the distance—about a mile off, I figured; maybe a bit farther. As I stood on those height-of-summer tracks and gazed westward, that light seemed to hold me with a mystical pull. For long minutes, I could not take my eyes away from that deep red glow shimmering in the waves of heat radiating from the roadbed gravel. The sight was haunting and beautiful.
A year later, I pointed my 1967 Dodge Dart westward, following the tracks until I arrived at and eventually settled in a region I have come to love as much as my home state: the Columbia River Gorge of Washington and Oregon.
There is an old saying: The only constant is change.
In the Columbia River Gorge, change is truly eternal. The gorge was formed through a combination of volcanic activity and the Missoula Floods,
a series of cataclysmic floods at the end of the last Ice Age, about 15,000 years ago. These floods periodically rushed down the course of what is now the Columbia River and scoured out the gorge region, fashioning stunning, deep canyons and rocky landscapes in the process.
As spectacular as the scenery often is in the gorge, with its tall waterfalls and steep cliffs, a dramatic political event also forever altered the region’s environment. In 1986, President Ronald Reagan signed the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area Act, which mandated the protection and enhancement of scenic, cultural, natural, and recreational resources in the gorge, as well as providing support for the region’s economy. The act protected roughly 292,500 acres in an 85-mile-long corridor on both sides of the Columbia River. The territory stretches roughly from Troutdale, Oregon, and Washougal, Washington (at the National Scenic Area’s western end), to Wishram, Washington, and Celilo, Oregon (to the east). The designated area is a land of scenic wonder revered by tourists and photographers for its natural beauty and by recreationalists for its fishing, kayaking, windsurfing, hiking, biking, and rafting.
The gorge is also home to two vital east-west rail routes. The first segment of the mainline tracks along the Columbia River in Oregon was completed in 1884 by the Oregon Railroad & Navigation Company, which later became part of Union Pacific Railroad. On the Washington side of the river, the Spokane, Portland & Seattle Railway opened its gorge mainline in 1908.
In the late 1950s, construction of dams on the Columbia River forced the relocation of long segments of the rail lines through the gorge, as the dams backed up the rolling river and flooded tracks that had been in use for decades. Also in the 1950s, the railroad industry itself underwent a major transition as the steam locomotive era came to an end. The end of steam operations brought a striking visual change as well, because colorful new diesel units replaced the venerable steamers, which were generally black. As a result, as the 1960s arrived, the trains gliding across the Columbia River Gorge countryside were literally imbued with a new coat of paint as motive power flooded through the area in a rainbow of colors.
By the early 1970s, the industry was going through yet another evolution, with railroad executives increasingly taking a hard look at the financial benefits of merging