Winter in Taos: Facsimile of Original 1935 Edition
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Winter in Taos - Mabel Dodge Luhan
WINTER IN TAOS
WINTER IN TAOS
FACSIMILE OF ORIGINAL 1935 EDITION
by
Mabel Dodge Luhan
New Foreword
by
Lynn Cline
New Material © 2007 by Sunstone Press. All Rights Reserved.
No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a review.
Sunstone books may be purchased for educational, business, or sales promotional use.
For information please write: Special Markets Department, Sunstone Press,
P.O. Box 2321, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87504-2321.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Luhan, Mabel Dodge, 1879-1962.
Winter in Taos : facsimile of original 1935 edition / by Mabel Dodge Luhan ; new foreword by Lynn Cline.
p. cm. -- (Southwest heritage series)
Originally published: New York : Harcourt, Brace, and Co., c1935.
ISBN 978-0-86534-593-5 (softcover : alk. paper)
1. Taos (N.M.)--Social life and customs--20th century. 2. Winter--New Mexico--Taos--History--20th century. 3. Luhan, Mabel Dodge, 1879-1962. 4. Luhan, Mabel Dodge, 1879-1962—Homes and haunts—New Mexico—Taos. 5. Taos (N.M.)—Biography. 6. Women intellectuals—New Mexico—Taos— Biography. 7. Women intellectuals—United States—Biography. I. Title.
F804.T2L8 2007
978.9’53--dc22
2007023142
WWW.SUNSTONEPRESS.COM
SUNSTONE PRESS / POST OFFICE BOX 2321 / SANTA FE, NM 87504-2321 /USA
(505) 988-4418 / ORDERS ONLY (800) 243-5644 / FAX (505) 988-1025
The Southwest Heritage Series is dedicated to Jody Ellis and Marcia Muth Miller, the founders of Sunstone Press, whose original purpose and vision continues to inspire and motivate our publications.
CONTENTS
THE SOUTHWEST HERITAGE SERIES / I
FOREWORD TO THIS EDITION / II
FACSIMILE OF 1935 EDITION / III
I
THE SOUTHWEST HERITAGE SERIES
The history of the United States is written in hundreds of regional histories and literary works. Those letters, essays, memoirs, biographies and even collections of fiction are often first-hand accounts by people who wanted to memorialize an event, a person or simply record for posterity the concerns and issues of the times. Many of these accounts have been lost, destroyed or overlooked. Some are in private or public collections but deemed to be in too fragile condition to permit handling by contemporary readers and researchers.
However, now with the application of twenty-first century technology, nineteenth and twentieth century material can be reprinted and made accessible to the general public. These early writings are the DNA of our history and culture and are essential to understanding the present in terms of the past.
The Southwest Heritage Series is a form of literary preservation. Heritage by definition implies legacy and these early works are our legacy from those who have gone before us. To properly present and preserve that legacy, no changes in style or contents have been made. The material reprinted stands on its own as it first appeared. The point of view is that of the author and the era in which he or she lived. We would not expect photographs of people from the past to be re-imaged with modern clothes, hair styles and backgrounds. We should not, therefore, expect their ideas and personal philosophies to reflect our modern concepts.
Remember, reading their words and sharing their thoughts is a passport back into understanding how the past was shaped and how it influenced today’s world.
Our hope is that new access to these older books will provide readers with a challenging and exciting experience.
II
FOREWORD TO THIS EDITION
by Lynn Cline
Mabel Dodge Luhan has yet to achieve the kind of iconic status bestowed on Georgia O’Keeffe and Willa Cather, despite her nearly legendary presence in Taos, New Mexico from late 1917 until her death there in 1962. Instead, her lesser-known legacy includes a rambling adobe that has been turned into a historic inn; an extensive collection of papers archived at Yale’s Beinecke Library; a four-volume autobiography, Intimate Memoirs; and this lyrical book, Winter in Taos, which offers a simple description of life in 1930s northern New Mexico patterned on the cycles of the seasons.
Luhan’s success as a writer pales in comparison to the stature of the literary guests she invited to Taos, including author D.H. Lawrence, poet Robinson Jeffers, and playwright and novelist Thornton Wilder. She never intended, however, to become a famous scribe. Having settled in Taos after living in Florence, Italy and Greenwich Village, New York, where her influential salons earned her an international reputation, she sought to put Taos, and herself as an arbiter of culture, on the world map.
Entranced by northern New Mexico’s rugged landscape and ancient cultures, Luhan hoped to reveal Pueblo cultural traditions to the Western world, believing that the Pueblo people’s life rhythms, bound tightly to the natural world, could restore a modern civilization beleaguered by war and bereft of faith. She worked hard to ensure that Cather, O’Keeffe, Lawrence, Jeffers and dozens of other significant creative guests who trekked to her adobe compound experienced the power of Taos first-hand.
Luhan fervently hoped that Lawrence would write a book about Taos Pueblo that would convince Americans to see Taos the way she did. Lawrence, who didn’t share her enthusiasm for Pueblo culture, never produced such a book, though he did fall in love with the region’s beauty. Other guests found life in Taos fascinating, but too remote and isolated for their tastes. Luhan, however, remained determined to live out her dream. She married Tony Luhan, a Taos Pueblo man, and immersed herself as much as possible in a new world that replaced all the ways I had known with others, more strange and terrible and sweet than any I had ever been able to imagine,
she wrote in Edge of Taos Desert.
Published in 1935, Winter in Taos starkly contrasts Luhan’s memoirs, Background(1933), European Experiences(1935), Movers and Shakers(1936) and Edge of Taos Desert(1937). The four volumes, inspired by Marcel Proust’s Remembrances of Things Past, begin with her birth in 1879 in Buffalo, N.Y. to a wealthy Victorian family and follow her life through three failed marriages, numerous affairs, and ultimately a feeling of being nobody in myself,
despite years of psychoanalysis and a luxurious lifestyle on two continents among the leading literary, art and intellectual personalities of the day.
Winter in Taos unfolds in an entirely different pattern, uncluttered with noteworthy names and ornate details. With no chapters dividing the narrative, it takes place on a single wintry day, yet moves well beyond the moment as Luhan describes her simple life in this new world
from season to season, following a thread that spools out from her consciousness as if she’s recording her thoughts in a journal. My pleasure is in being very still and sensing things,
she writes, sharing that pleasure with the reader by describing the joys of adobe rooms warmed in winter by aromatic cedar fires; fragrant in spring with flowers, and scented with homegrown fruits and vegetables being preserved and pickled in summer. She also delights in describing the traits of her cat, dogs, horses and the flock of pigeons residing at the 17-room adobe she and Tony designed that holds me, works me to death, bores me and will not let me go!
Luhan struggled constantly with self-doubt, a deep fear of failure, and the sense that she belonged nowhere, even after arriving in Taos. Her problems played out in her relations with others, too, and her domineering, often manipulative personality created rifts in many friendships. She admits to these issues in Winter in Taos, describing bouts of depression and melancholy and linking them to certain seasons and events. In a poignant passage, she writes that by giving up and relaxing into submission, acknowledging the perpetual and essential loneliness of life...there emerges a peace and contentment in one’s own small domain, and an almost tangible atmosphere of well-being that pervades it, which emanates, really, from one’s own heart, coming at last home to rest.
Having wandered the world, Luhan found her home at last in Taos. Winter in Taos celebrates the spiritual connection she established with the deep living earth
as well as the bonds she forged with Tony, her mountain.
This moving tribute to a land and the people who eked a life from it reminds readers that in northern New Mexico, where the seasons can be harshly beautiful, one can bathe in the sunshine until ‘untied are the knots in the heart,’ for there is nothing like the sun for smoothing out all difficulties.
III
FACSIMILE OF 1935 EDITION
WINTER IN TAOS
SOUTH SIDE COMMUNITY HOUSE (photograph by Angel Adams)
MABEL DODGE LUHAN
WINTER IN TAOS
Harcourt, Brace and Company, New York
COPYRIGHT, 1935, BY
HARCOURT, BRACE AND COMPANY, INC.
All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form.
first edition
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA BY QUINN & BODEN COMPANY, INC., RAHWAY, N. J.
Typography by Robert Josephy
The first farmer was the first man, and all historic nobility rests on possession and use of land.
EMERSON
AMICO SUO
BY HERBERT HORN
When on my country walks I go,
I never am alone:
Though whom ’twere pleasure then to know,
Are gone, and you are gone;
From every side discourses flow.
There are rich counsels in the trees,
And converse in the air;
All magic thoughts in those and these
And what is sweet and rare;
And everything that living is.
But most I love the meaner sort,
For they have voices too;
Yet speak with tongues that never hurt,
As ours are apt to do:
The weeds, the grass, the common wort.
ILLUSTRATIONS
SOUTH SIDE COMMUNITY HOUSE
(photograph by Angel Adams)
COURTYARD AND PIGEONS
(photograph by Ernest Knee)
IN THE HILLS
(photograph by Edward Weston)
CHARLEY AND ROSY
(photograph by Ernest Knee)
RED RIVER CHURCH
(photograph by Edward Weston)
FROM MY WINDOW
(photograph by Ernest Knee)
OUR SOUTH VIEW
(photograph by Edward Weston)
VILLAGE STREET
(photograph by Ernest Knee)
NEW CHURCH AT TAOS PUEBLO
(photograph by Angel Adams)
TAOS GIRL
(photograph by Carl Van Vechten)
TAOS PUEBLO
(photograph by Edward Weston)
SPRING EVENING
(photograph by Edward Weston)
GOING FISHING
EVENING OVER TAOS
(photograph by Edward Weston)
TONY
CHURCH AT RANCHOS DE TAOS
(photograph by Carl Van Vechten)
WINTER IN TAOS
One winter day, when Max came in to light the stove at eight o’clock, and all the smoke backed down into the room, and the sun shone through the blue cloud of it, and the air stayed just as it had been all night from the open windows—twenty above zero—I knew the soot had to be cleaned out of the chimney, the soot from the red flames of the pitch wood that makes the hottest fire of all as it burns, but hasn’t the sweet smell of cedar and piñon, which turn into small, white ash after they are burned.
When I rang the buzzer for my coffee, Mrs. Gonzales brought it through the blue haze, looking east and west as she minced down the seven steps and across the room.
Her thoughts were easily read: Inexplicable race! They keep the furnace going all night, but their windows wide open!
I sat up in the thin, sunshiny, smoky air and dragged my mother’s pink knitted shawl off the squat, carved bed post that Manuel made, and wrapped it around my shoulders.
Buenos días, Señora,
murmured Mrs. Gonzales, how are you today?
All right,
I answered cheerfully, and suddenly emitted a loud sneeze, too unexpected and unprepared to reduce to a refined measure.
Dio!
responded Mrs. Gonzales, looking at me rather cross-eyed through her drug-store specs.
Nothing,
I answered, sniffing backwards. Max is going to clean the chimney this morning so you’d better give him some old newspapers.
The coffee seemed scalding hot in contrast to the atmosphere I drank it in, and I remembered how Kitty used to jump up on the bed on cold winter mornings like this, and her hot milk would be cool as soon as I poured it into the saucer and she didn’t have to wait as usual, with her eyes half closed over the steam of it, pumping with her paws on the turquoise green blanket, impatient to sip, not daring to.
This Kitty still had then the glare of horror in her eyes that was in them when she followed Alexandra and me in the snow at the corner of the Kit Carson graveyard one evening. Lifting her paws and shaking them, crying with her face turned up to me, she had run back and forth across the frozen road, waving her tail in the air like a column of gray smoke. Seen only from the back, she looked gallant and gay and appeared to be dancing, but as soon as she turned around, one saw her anguished eyes were full of fear and hunger. How many evenings had she watched the sun go down and leave the world in its humming cold rigidity?
Then the sun was low and shining already below the branches of the cottonwood trees and turning the mountain into a big, crumpled rose. It is a lovely hour to walk about in the snowy lanes, hastening a little, for the bitterness of the night comes down fast. The air grows quiet. If there has been any wind, it ceases; and the snow squeaks under one’s feet and the telegraph wires sing a low song. It is sweet, but it is bitter, too.
This gray Angora kitty knew that bitterness too well, apparently. Her white nose and shirt-front were dingy and neglected-looking, and she had a ring of solid lumps of matted fur around her neck. That night she just wouldn’t go through it again, she seemed to be telling me, with her shrill, insistent meows. She raised her back and rubbed against my overshoes, swaying back and forth.
I picked her up and held her against my fur coat and she thrust her cold face inside my high collar and immediately began to purr.
I didn’t know what to do with her. I didn’t want a cat, although I must say I adore them. But a long time ago I made up my mind I had to choose between the joys of wild birds and our pigeons, and the pleasure of having two or three beautiful, long-haired pussies sitting around the big room on cushions, or washing their faces before the kitchen stove. There is nothing that makes a room so interior, so domestic and cozy and full of contentment as a nice cat beside the fire in the winter, or sitting in the open window in the summertime.
But they drive the birds away. Just when you are feeling the peace, perfect peace that emanates from a cat, it gets up, goes out into the garden, turns into a long, sinuous snake right in front of your eyes and starts to crawl up on some bird that you’ve begun to become acquainted with; and you have to start throwing stones or chasing it with a long stick; and all your participation in its smug enjoyment is turned into rage and indignation.
Really, to watch one’s own dear cat slink out on a branch of the great cottonwood tree, wrap itself flat around it, and then try to dip the baby orioles out of their bag with a long paw shaped like a lemonade spoon, is just about enough to turn one on the whole race of them forever.
Our pigeons live in a Mexican village reared high up on thick, long posts. I love the expression of their frame houses, that have been added to by Jose for years. They lean strangely in all directions, and look like a settled community. We are always cutting back the branches of the big tree that grows so fast beside the stream, because the cats come at night from all around to steal the young squabs that can’t fly yet. They cannot climb up the posts and reach them because the platforms of the houses jut out too far all around, but they climb the tree and drop onto the roofs from out of the branches. No matter what we do to protect the pigeons, the placita inside our wall is always strewn with gray and white feathers. One can hardly walk from the house to the gate any morning without that sudden pang in the heart that comes from seeing new feathers scattered on the grass or on the snow. Max sweeps them away, but more will be there.
COURTYARD AND PIGEONS (photograph by Ernest Knee)
It’s bad enough to have the neighbors’ cats always after our pigeons, but one doesn’t know them personally; I couldn’t bear it when our own nice kitties would be found sitting on their haunches in broad daylight, daintily pulling the feathers off a breast, mingling gray and white feathers with gray and white fur that seems of the same texture as well as color.
We didn’t use to eat our pigeons ourselves because we felt we knew them so well. We just had them. For generations they have been born there in those lopsided residences, and they aren’t afraid of anything because they don’t have to be. After all, one or two marauding cats a night among three or four hundred pigeons is not enough to send a signal all the way through the community. In the daytime, sometimes a hawk flies over them, and then they all rise in one movement and circle round and round the big tree, the alfalfa field, the house; and Max sees them alarmed and knows if it is an unusual time of the day for them to be circling about, or he notices if they seem nervous and their flight is troubled and broken, so he runs into the carpenter shop for his gun and shoots the hawk down; and pretty soon they’re all sitting along the walls of the placita again, or walking up and down the portals in front of their hacienda.
All day long they are cooing and roucouling, and