You Can Fix It - Encyclopedia of Home Repairs - A Complete Encyclopedia of Home Repairs, Domestic Appliance Service Data and Household Hints

By John Wells

Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Read Books Ltd.
• Release date: Mar 6, 2013
• ISBN: 9781447489696

John Wells

John Wells is a retired naval engineer living in Annapolis, Maryland. A graduate of the U.S. Naval Academy and the Naval Postgraduate School, Monterey, California, he cut his teeth by writing technical documents for Navy shipbuilding programs that resulted in his ability to express ideas clearly and elegantly, but it’s been a lifelong obsession with classical literature that honed his skill to become a professional wordsmith who writes fiction that has readability and character-based dynamic storylines. A literary realist, he has developed a writing style suited to modern readers in this publishing era when novels have to compete with television and video games. He believes that “following the crowd” in writing guarantees mediocrity.

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WELLS

AN INTRODUCTION AND AN EXPLANATION

So that he who reads may repair

this book is written.

Why is it, one of our friends asked the other day, that everything in the house seems to ‘go wrong’ just when you need it most. Oil burners invariably pick the coldest day in winter to stop running while, with the same perversity of logic, the refrigerator finds summer’s hottest day ideal for a temperamental spree.

Most of us who own or rent a house are, sooner or later, sure to echo his complaint. Just when we need the mechanical equipment of our homes most, it always seems to be out of order. Yet, upon reflection we’ll admit that this is far from being true. Household appliances as they are built today are, in the main, mighty sturdy pieces of equipment. Not only do they usually render us efficient service day after day, but they afford us a degree of luxury and comfort that would make the splendors of kings of old seem like privations.

Of course no man-made machine is perfect. Irrespective of its price or purpose, conditions and care play an important part in its functioning. And it is for the very reason that the greatest load does fall on the oil burner during the coldest days of winter; the greatest burden on the refrigerator on hot days; the greatest demand on the toaster or mixer at the time that you’re giving a party or entertaining an unusually large number of guests, that most mechanical appliances seem to break down at the most critical moments.

Yet, because the vast majority of home-equipment manufacturers are honestly endeavoring to give the purchaser full value for his money, most of these breakdowns are traceable to minor causes which could be remedied quite easily and quickly IF the home owner only knew HOW! Granted that the instruction books which accompany the various appliances frequently do contain instructions for such minor repairs. Unfortunately, however, if our household may be taken as a criterion, this all-too-valuable information can never be found when needed. The result? Tempers are frayed, service calls hurriedly made, and then there are repair bills to be paid which, of course, help to make the dreaded first of the month even more burdensome.

The purpose of this book is to supply the home repairs information you need—when you need it. Most important of all—we have endeavored to make as easy as possible the task of finding exactly the data you want—quickly. There is no complicated table of contents, index or cross-index to battle with. This book has been arranged so that the chapters and chapter numbers correspond with the letters of the alphabet.

When the refrigerator stops running, chapter eighteen is where you’ll find what you want, for R is the eighteenth letter of the alphabet. Carpet Sweepers? Chapter three contains the information you seek. As for where the various chapters begin—the page immediately following this introduction tells the story. The general index at the back of the book gives the individual pages on which data concerning each specific appliance may be found.

So much for indexing. Now for contents. Under each heading you will find complete, detailed information as to methods of making general repairs to the house, the plumbing, the furnishings or any particular piece of household equipment that may need fixing or restoring. Directly after the general information, in the case of household appliances and equipment, particularly, you will find in simple, non-technical language the repair-data that most of the country’s largest manufacturers want you to have about their devices.

This alone should make this book unique, for, speaking from our own personal experience, most authors of books on the home, including government publications, have such a horror of being commercial that they lean over backwards in their efforts to avoid naming names. We have always considered that illogical.

When our toaster, vacuum cleaner or sewing machine goes haywire, it certainly would be helpful to know what the maker of the particular appliance we own has to say about how to repair it. To those manufacturers thru whose cooperation the valuable specific information has been included in this book, we take the opportunity, at this time, to express our sincere thanks.

May we emphasize, however, that the absence of data about any manufacturer’s devices does not in any way reflect on them or him. Nor does it mean, if you do not happen to see the particular make of some of the appliances you own included under the Manufacturers’ Section, that you will not find in our book exactly the information you need to make whatever repairs may be necessary. The Manufacturers’ Section is merely included as an ADDED SERVICE to our readers to supplement repair data about each particular appliance which represents absolutely the last word in complete, concise, comprehensive and detailed information as to how you, yourself, may fix it easily, quickly and safely!

As for why any particular manufacturer is not represented in our book, we are sure you will realize that with so many thousands of makers of home equipment in this country, it would be impossible to either secure or include specific details about every appliance in a book this size.

Let us also say at this point that we do not recommend that any reader of this book, if any there be, attempt to make major repairs himself. For these it is always cheaper, in the long run, to call upon a qualified service man.

Primarily this book is intended to enable you, when things go wrong with your house, its plumbing, furnishings or equipment, to first check up and discover the CAUSE! Second, it tells you how to make permanent repairs if such repairs can be made safely and satisfactorily by a layman. Third, it describes how major difficulties may be temporarily mended so that you need not in any way be inconvenienced while awaiting the service man.

Finally, you will find under various headings rather unique cleaning methods, time-saving housework shortcuts and household hints which we have found very valuable in our own home. We hope that they will prove as helpful to you.

THE AUTHORS.

INDEX TO CHAPTERS

Chapter 1. THE A CHAPTER

Chapter 2. THE B CHAPTER

Chapter 3. THE C CHAPTER

Chapter 4. THE D CHAPTER

Chapter 5. THE E CHAPTER

Chapter 6. THE F CHAPTER

Chapter 7. THE G CHAPTER

Chapter 8. THE H CHAPTER

Chapter 9. THE I CHAPTER

Chapter 10. THE J CHAPTER

Chapter 11. THE K CHAPTER

Chapter 12. THE L CHAPTER

Chapter 13. THE M CHAPTER

Chapter 14. THE N CHAPTER

Chapter 15. THE O CHAPTER

Chapter 16. THE P CHAPTER

Chapter 18. THE R CHAPTER

Chapter 19. THE S CHAPTER

Chapter 20. THE T CHAPTER

Chapter 21. THE U CHAPTER

Chapter 22. THE V CHAPTER

Chapter 23. THE W CHAPTER

Chapter 24 to 26. X, Y, Z CHAPTERS

CHAPTER I

The A Chapter

T is a long way from A, yet in this chapter we believe it best to immediately refer you to the T chapter of our book where you will find a complete list of the tools recommended for every householder. Repairs are easy to make when you know how and have the proper tools with which to make them. The purpose of this book is to tell you HOW—the tools section tells you what tools are necessary in every household if you want to be in a position to make repairs speedily and efficiently.

Please don’t misunderstand. Most of the implements listed you probably already have. It is not our intention to make you go out and outfit a veritable workshop for yourself, in order to be able to use this book to advantage. On the contrary, everything this book contains has been brought right down to rudiments so that you may do your mending the easiest way with a minimum amount of equipment and expense. Yet, when you have the necessary tools right on hand, it is surprising how much more you can accomplish—how much better the condition of your house is—and how important they are when emergency repairs must be made.

A word as to our method of arranging the book’s contents. Some chapters may seem much too lean while others will run on for pages. Take this, the A chapter, for example. Only three types of household equipment rightly belong here—Air Conditioning Equipment, Air Filters and Automatic Controls, in which we have included Aquastats, Thermostats, Gas Cut-offs, Oven Controls and every other type of automatic shut-off or regulating equipment.

The entire idea has been to enable you to find what you want, when you want it, under the heading which is most familiar to you. And so, general information about Electrical Equipment is under E, while each individual device is handled under its specific chapter heading, T for Toaster, W for Waffle Iron, etc. Furthermore, the general index at the back will enable you to immediately locate the particular page on which data concerning each individual subject and appliance may be found. We’re sure this kind of indexing will come in mighty handy when you need information in a hurry.

AIR CONDITIONING

There is no question that Air Conditioning for private homes is definitely on the way. The promise it holds forth of all-year-round comfort—cooling in the summer and humidified warmth in the winter—is too inviting not to be of vast interest. Already, many of the more expensive homes have been equipped with one or the other of the many units that have been developed for the smaller house. Unfortunately, however, the smallest systems are as yet so high-priced as to be still in the luxury class.

Furthermore, while the air-conditioning system of the future will undoubtedly offer repair problems of its own, today’s units are generally assembled from equipment already familiar to most home owners or renters. Oil or gas burners furnish the heat; compressors similar in principle to those in automatic refrigerators do the cooling; electric motors power the blowers; a small pump draws in the water used in the humidification; centrifugal fans or blowers differing from the ordinary household fan in appearance but not in principle, circulate the air; thermostatic and automatic controls of various kinds are used for regulating various functions of the unit.

In those systems where conditioning units are designed to take the place of radiators in hot-water or steam heating plants, the trouble jobs will be similar to those that exist in the ordinary heating system of the same variety. As for those air-conditioning devices which are sealed, self-contained units, such as the General Electric, these are designed so that repairs cannot be made by the layman. In fact, when something goes wrong even the company’s service men will usually replace the operating mechanism entirely, sending the old one back to the factory to be repaired and reconditioned.

Generally, therefore, in air-conditioning equipment where repairs are possible because of the construction of the unit, very much the same procedure is followed to check-up, find the cause of the breakdown, and make temporary or permanent repairs as is recommended under the individual instructions for the particular part of the appliance which is at fault. In other words, if the motor breaks down, valuable information as to what to do about it will be found under Motors in the M chapter. The compressor is usually a sealed unit, requiring expert servicing. Information about Refrigerators in the R chapter may prove helpful to you, however. Automatic Control information will be found later in this chapter. Fans and all other parts may be checked up in a like manner.

MANUFACTURERS’ SECTION

Westinghouse Unit Air-Conditioner

(Summer and Winter Conditioning)

All electrical connections are grouped under a single shield at the bottom of the cabinet. May be easily reached by removing a single plate. Humidifier is controlled by an electric switch with a solenoid valve. If for any reasons the fan stops, this valve automatically shuts off the flow of water. Water turns on again when fan resumes normal operation.

Refrigerant used is Freon, a non-poisonous, non-irritant, non-inflammable compound especially manufactured for the purpose. Compressor is two cylinder, vertical, single acting unit. Suction and discharge valves being of low inertia type have no cams or levers. Crankshaft dynamically balanced as in automobile engines. Bearings, wrist pins, and cylinder walls, lubricated by force feed system. Sylphon seal prevents leakage of oil or refrigerant from crank case. If it stops operating, FIRST check electrical connections, in accordance with instructions in Chapter 5. See same chapter for repair data.

Westinghouse Mobilaire

(Summer Air Conditioner—A Portable Unit)

Divided into two compartments, upper containing cooling coils and lower the condensing unit. Fan, fan motor and inlet and return pipes on left side of cabinet. Refrigerant—Freon. Condensing unit hermetically sealed, cannot be repaired at home. Check electrical connections FIRST when machine fails to operate. See instructions under Chapter 5.

Air-Way Electric Appliance Corp.—Aeriet Air Conditioner

(Summer or Winter Conditioning)

Motor—1/10 horse-power, A. C. or D. C. Operates atomizer, fans and water pump. Atomizer by pulley V belt, fans on direct shaft-drive, water pump by worm gear on shaft. If anything goes wrong, check electrical connections FIRST as described under Chapter 5. See individual chapters for motor, pump and fans.

AIR-FILTERS

Filter itself is extremely simple to install and offers no repair problem whatsoever. Helpful information on motor or fan repair will be found under the individual chapter headings. Speed of motor controlled in most makes of home units by a radio-like rheostat dial. This usually has a switch which, it has been our experience, requires occasional repairs. If filter stops operating, check electrical connections FIRST in accordance with instructions given in Chapter 5.

If equipment is switch-operated, be certain switch is turned on, checking the entire switch mechanism as sometimes the handle works free and turns without making contact with the arm or lever that connects it with the switch proper. If motor speed is rheostatically controlled, be sure rheostat arm is making proper contact, and that both arm and contact points are bright and clean.

If, after checking up on electrical connections, motor, switch and fan, you are still unable to locate the cause of the breakdown, call a service man.

AUTOMATIC CONTROLS

Practically every one of the modern household appliances has some form of automatic control. Ovens have heat regulators, oil burners have thermostats, pressure controls, aquastats and a whole host of other stats designed to insure safe and efficient operation of the equipment. Water heaters have gas cutoffs and temperature regulators. And so it goes. With the introduction and improvement of each device for greater comfort and convenience in the home, have come more and more control instruments designed to make the operation of the appliance as automatic and as foolproof as possible.

If you have or are about to get equipment regulated by such controls, make it your business to thoroughly familiarize yourself with the operation of each instrument. Because, primarily the purpose of such devices is to control or shut off the appliance to which they are attached, should anything go wrong, many of them have to be restarted again by hand. In some instances a reset button has to be pushed, in others a fuse must be replaced, while still others require the throwing of a switch or lever before the appliance they govern will function normally again.

Have the dealer who is selling you or has sold you your equipment explain, in detail, the operation of its automatic control apparatus. Ask him to actually demonstrate to you how it may be restarted when for some cause—the stoppage of the oil supply, overheating of the water, too great a boiler pressure or whatever other condition the control is set to guard against—the equipment fails to function.

If, after restarting the equipment, it operates but a few minutes and then again shuts off, in most instances the fault lies, not with the control but with the apparatus it regulates. Your next move, therefore, is to check-up on the appliance, itself. Look it up immediately under its appropriate heading in this book, and follow the instructions given.

However, if the restarting mechanism fails to operate, or your investigation of the equipment it regulates convinces you that it is the control which has gone out of order, our advice to you is to IMMEDIATELY CALL A SERVICE MAN! By their very nature such devices are necessarily of complex and delicate construction. Any attempt to repair or adjust them, yourself, may result in damaging the equipment and what would have originally been an inexpensive repair job, becomes a costly and time-consuming process.

Although the pages that follow contain detailed instructions for the adjustment and repair of many types of automatic control, these have been included primarily to be of service to you in case a repair man is not available. Especially in the case of heating equipment controls, immediate service is often essential for the preservation of health. In keeping with our policy of furnishing complete data for emergency repairs, repair information from various manufacturers of control equipment, ordinarily furnished only to expert service men, has been incorporated in the following pages. We counsel you NOT TO ATTEMPT TO USE IT, except for minor adjustments, UNLESS IT BECOMES ESSENTIAL FOR YOU TO DO SO!

TYPES OF AUTOMATIC CONTROLS

In the Manufacturers’ Section that follows, the following types of automatic controls are discussed:—

MANUFACTURERS’ SECTION

General Information

Lyon Electric Co.

In regard to the thermostats, there is very little repairing that the home owner can take care of. However, the equipment is very simple and there is rarely any repair necessary with the exception of the wafer thermostats which should be replaced occasionally or whenever the liquid in these thermostats becomes depleted.

We might mention one point that should be explained in regard to open circuit contacts frequently used in connection with these thermostats, that is, these contact points should be protected from dust, also an occasional inspection should be given to see that the points are clean. Otherwise dust accumulating on the points might cause the thermostats to fail when most needed.

Aquastats

(See Water Temperature Controls for equipment used in gas or oil hot water heaters that are a separate unit from the regular boiler.)

DUNCO (Surface Aquastat)

(Struthers-Dunn Inc.)

Type TS—106

If with Aquastat pointer turned to extreme right the burner shuts off before the desired temperature has been reached, loosen screw and turn pointer alone to 150° F. setting on dial. Tighten screw and then follow instructions below.

1. Set Aquastat pointer to highest setting by turning right.

2. Increase boiler temperature until boiler thermometer indicates that desired temperature of boiler has been reached.

3. Turn Aquastat pointer slowly toward left until burner shuts down.

4. Loosen holding screw on pointer and turn pointer alone to setting as shown on thermometer. Tighten screw.

MINNEAPOLIS-HONEYWELL

To Check Dual Control Installation (Type B)

Turn Aquastat indicator up the scale 15° above water temperature (to move Aquastat indicator simply insert key provided with each instrument into slotted end of shaft which extends through opening in front cover and turn right or left until the indicator stands at temperature desired).

Move Room Thermostat indicator 5° above room temperature. Burner should then start and continue to run until either the room temperature reaches the degree at which the Room Thermostat indicator is set or the water temperature at boiler reaches degree at which Aquastat indicator is set.

To Check Aquastat Installation

Make sure that indicator of Room Thermostat is set at least 5° above room temperature. Move the Aquastat indicator to the right and the B-6510 should start the burner at a point 10° above temperature of the water as indicated by boiler thermometer, and the B-2 4° above. Move indicator back to temperature indicated by boiler thermometer and burner will stop.

If the instrument is found to be in adjustment in the above tests, leave it alone. If it is not in adjustment follow the directions given below.

To Adjust the B-6510 Aquastat

CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the Aquastat until the water is heated and the instrument has had sufficient time to become uniformly heated up to water temperature.

Move indicator to the degree on scale corresponding to reading of boiler thermometer. Be sure that the lower contact screw is touching button in long blade. If it is not touching, screw it toward blade until contact is made.

Move indicator up scale until the burner starts. Then turn indicator down scale again to point corresponding to temperature shown by boiler thermometer and screw out lower contact screw until the burner stops.

Move indicator up scale on Aquastat to a point 10° above temperature shown by boiler thermometer. If the burner is running, screw out upper contact screw until it can be seen that screw is not touching blade. Turn indicator to left until the burner stops. Raise indicator again to a point 10° above boiler temperature and screw in upper contact screw until the burner starts.

The correctness of the adjustment should now be tested with the Aquastat and Room Thermostat in dual control according to directions given at the beginning of this section.

At the beginning of each heating season it is recommended that the connections and contacts in the entire system be checked up. All connections must be kept tight. The contacts in the instrument may be cleaned by inserting a piece of hard finish paper (not newspaper) between the contact points, pressing the blade contact down against the paper and pulling out the paper.

To Adjust the B-2 Aquastat

CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust B-2 Aquastat until water is evenly heated and Aquastat has had sufficient time to become uniformly heated up to water temperature.

Remove cover and adjust the indicator to a position on the temperature scale which corresponds with the temperature shown by the thermometer on the boiler. Turn the left hand adjusting screw in or out until it just makes contact with the left side of the pendulum in the end of which is mounted a contact disc. Now move the indicator 4 degrees up the scale and turn the right hand adjusting screw in or out until it just makes contact with the right side of the pendulum.

Use notched top of key, supplied with each instrument, to turn contact screws.

Electrical Supply Cut-off Controls

Mercoid Pyratherm

Early morning shut-downs are invariably caused by air entering a leaky suction line. The lines should be tightened, but if the leak cannot be found, the trouble can frequently be overcome by increasing the Safety time, thus allowing the burner sufficient time to clear the lines and start combustion before shut-down occurs.

SHOULD COMBUSTION FAIL TO OCCUR, when the burner is started the Pyratherm shunt circuit remains open and the ignition circuit remains closed as the stack temperature does not rise. The relay current consequently continues to flow thru heating element and after a predetermined set time releases Safety switch and stops the burner. It is then necessary to turn the reset button on the front of the case before burner can be restarted.

MINNEAPOLIS-HONEYWELL

Protector-relay for oil burners

Model R 103—1 (Used with Type B5 Pyrostat or Type A3 Protectostat).

If the oil should fail to ignite, or if the flame should be extinguished prematurely due to lack of oil or other causes, a safety shut-down will result. In order to restart the burner it will be necessary to depress and release the reset button before the burner can start again.

To Check R 103—1 Protectorelay Failures

First, move the indicators on the room Thermostat and Limit Control above the room temperature and above the boiler temperature or pressure, respectively, to be sure that these devices are both calling for heat. Then check the Thermal Safety Switch by depressing and releasing the reset button to see if the failure is the result of a safety shutdown. If this is not the trouble, and no momentary power failure has occurred, remove the cover of the Protectorelay and see if No. 2 Relay is closed. If closed, check Pyrostat or Protectostat to see if it has returned to the cold position. If the Pyrostat or Protectostat is in the cold position, and No. 2 Relay is still closed, the trouble may be a short circuit in the Pyrostat or Protectostat wiring.

Before proceeding very far with the investigation of a Protectorelay failure, be sure to check the current supply by connecting a test lamp across terminals No. 1 and No. 2 of the Protectorelay. If the lamp fails to light, it is an indication of fuse or line trouble.

Pushing No. 1 Relay armature closed by hand, to check the line voltage circuit, should start the burner motor. If the burner motor fails to start, and the power supply is all right, check the circuit from the Protectorelay to the motor, and inspect the motor itself.

If the burner motor starts when the armature of No. 1 Relay is pushed closed by hand, check the low voltage wiring according to the following procedure:

1. With a piece of bare copper wire short circuit the red, white, and blue terminals of the Protectorelay. Its failure to then operate indicates either lack of current supply or trouble with the Protectorelay itself. When Testing DC Installations, Omit This Paragraph and Pass on to Paragraph No. 2.

2. If the Protectorelay operates, remove the wire used to short circuit its red, white, and blue terminals, and shortcircuit the red, white and blue terminals on the Protectorelay side of the Boiler Limit Control. This is a test of the three-wire cable between the Boiler Limit Control and the Protectorelay. Failure of the Protectorelay to operate indicates a break in this section of cable, or loose connections at the Protecto-relay or Limit Control. On DC installations weak dry cells or Protectorelay trouble may also be indicated.

3. Remove the previous short, and short circuit the red, white, and blue terminals on the Thermostat side of the Boiler Limit Control. This is a test of the Boiler Limit Control itself, and the indicator of the instrument for this test should be set well above the boiler pressure or temperature. Failure of the Protectorelay to operate indicates poor contacts, an open circuit with the Limit Control, or the fact that it is out of adjustment.

4. Remove the previous short, and lay a piece of wire or two coins across the red, white, and blue terminal posts on the top of the base of the Thermostat. This is a test of the cable between the Limit Control and the Thermostat, and of the connections at the Thermostat and at the Thermostat side of the Limit Control. Failure of the Protectorelay to operate indicates an open circuit in one of these connections or a break in this length of cable.

5. Remove the previous short, and swing the Thermostat indicator well above room temperature. Failure of the Protectorelay to operate indicates poor Thermostat contacts, or the fact that the Thermostat is out of adjustment.

6. If the Thermostat or open contact Limit Control is not contacting properly, clean the contacts by pulling a piece of hard finished writing paper (not newspaper) between the contact points when held close. Be sure that no paper shreds remain between the contact points.

If No. 1 Relay fails to close automatically, but remains closed when pushed in by hand, a break or poor connection in the blue wire or a poor blue contact is indicated.

Chattering operation of the Protectorelay, with Boiler Limit Control and Thermostat in correct adjustment, indicates either a break in the red wire, or interchanging of the blue with either the red or white wire somewhere in the low voltage system. The low voltage wiring must be done correctly, with all devices wired together, color to color.

Continuous closure of No. 1 relay which can be stopped only by opening the line switch, or removing the red, white, and blue wires at the Protectorelay, indicates a short between the Limit Control and the Relay. If the Limit Control can control the Protectorelay, and the room Thermostat cannot, the short is indicated between the Boiler Limit Control and the Room Thermostat. Short Circuits in the low voltage wiring are sometimes caused by the bare wires coming together, but more often by staples being driven in too tightly and cutting thru the insulation of the cable.

IN GENERAL

It is important that the cover be left on the Protectorelay to protect its parts from dust and mechanical injury. Under no circumstances use oil on any part of the Protectorelay.

The contacts are so designed that they close with a wiping action, and are thus self-cleaning. It is recommended, however, that they be cleaned once a season by drawing a strip of hard finish writing paper (not newspaper) between them while held in the closed position. Be sure that no paper shreds remain between contact points. The contacts are made of fine silver, and may turn black with service. It is not necessary, and we do not recommend, that this discoloration be removed.

In cases of failure, always check the current supply to the Protectorelay and burner motor by connecting a test lamp across terminals No. 1 and No. 2 of the Protectorelay. If the lamp does not light it is an indication of fuse or line trouble. On DC installations test the dry cells periodically. It is generally advisable to renew them once a season.

If the outlined procedure has not enabled you to locate the trouble, and you are certain that there is an internal defect in the Protectorelay, pack the entire unit carefully and return it for repair or replacement to the manufacturer of the burner on which it was installed.

FLAME-SIZE CONTROL

Minneapolis-Honeywell Protectostat

Adjustment and Care

In adjusting the flame when first putting the burner in operation, it is frequently necessary that the flame be varied in size a good deal in obtaining the proper flame setting. It should be borne in mind that if a large flame is secured for a few seconds and then reduced considerably, the Protectostat will respond to this change in the flame which will result in the burner being shut down in the safety position. This shutdown will be due to the decrease in size of the flame which has occurred during the operation. If it is desired to continue to operate on the smaller flame, this may be done by stopping the burner for a few minutes and then starting it up. The Protectostat will then adjust itself to the smaller flame and permit normal operation.

When the amount of heat supplied to the Protectostat is limited as is the case with some burner installations, it may be necessary to make the instrument more sensitive. To obtain greater sensitivity, bend the ends of the aluminum fork slightly downward using a pair of long-nose pliers. This will reduce the travel of the fork between the upper stop and the lower stop and in turn will cut down the time required between the making and breaking of the Protectostat circuit. Make sure the current is cut off before attempting to make adjustments.

If Protectostat becomes less responsive to the flame, the cause is generally an accumulation of carbon or soot on the diaphragm due to improper combustion. The adjustments of the burner should be carefully checked and soot or carbon scraped off the diaphragm, using a piece of thin, stiff cardboard. Do not use a metallic instrument as it may injure the diaphragm.

Safety shut downs of burners for which there is no apparent cause are often traced to failure of oil pump to maintain proper pressure. In this case the size of flame is reduced and since the Protectostat has adjusted itself to the full sized flame, a point will be reached where Protectostat contacts will open and safety shut down will result. Cases have been found where an hour was required for a safety shut down of this nature to occur. Burner should be checked carefully when conditions occur as above outlined.

In very few instances, particularly where there is a small fire box, upon starting burner, the fire box will practically fill up with flame before the stack draft is established. The Protectostat will close its contacts but as soon as normal condition of flame occurs—the contacts will open causing a safety shut down. Normally to remedy this condition—check lower Protectostat Fork, and if it is not straight—straighten it with long nose pliers. If the fork is straight and safety shut downs continue we would suggest that a Pyrostat be installed in stack.

If Protectostat diaphragm is damaged it is possible to obtain new part either from the factory or any Branch Office. To install new diaphragm, first remove three screws that hold tube to Protectostat, then remove cotter pin from the pin which extends thru center of diaphragm. Then remove all screws from the flange which holds diaphragm in position. The diaphragm may then be removed and the new one installed.

In order to get pin back thru center of diaphragm, remove terminal block and hold the friction band and reset hook with one finger, then push pin thru the hole after which the washers and cotter pin may be put back into place. It is not necessary to remove any of the internal mechanism. When replacing terminal block see that forked arm slips in between contact points. Also see that contacts are apart when Protectostat is again mounted. If contact points are together—remove reset lever cap and push lever forward, then release.

Due to handling when first installed, it is possible that the contact points of the Protectostat will be in the hot position. This will be indicated if, after all connections have been made and the power applied, the Protectostat relay closes immediately. When this is the case, the burner cannot be started by the Thermostat. To correct this condition unscrew the small cap covering the reset lever, press the small lever forward or toward the boiler and release it. The Protectostat relay should then drop out when current is turned on.

At the beginning of each heating season it is recommended that the connections and contacts in the entire system be checked up. All connections must be kept tight. The contacts in the instrument may be cleaned by inserting a piece of hard finish writing paper between the contact points, pressing the blade contact down against the paper and pulling out the paper, making sure that no small piece of paper tears off and lodges between contact points.

NOTE

The foregoing instructions for adjustment have been written to apply to the single circuit or Type A-3 Protectostat, merely to simplify the explanation. The only difference between the Type A-3 and Type A-4 Protectostat is in the terminal block itself. The adjustments necessary are identical with the two instruments, and the added contact on the Type A-4 Protectostat is in no way affected by bending the fork to change the time of operation as above outlined.

GAS CUT-OFF CONTROLS

Welsbach

Before water temperature can reach 212° F. the Welsbach Hi-Temperature Gas Cut-off automatically shuts off the supply of gas to the heater.

When the water cools to normal operating temperature, the gas supply can be re-established by simply pressing a button. It is never necessary to replace any fusible metal or other parts to re-establish the supply of gas to the heater nor is it necessary to even shut off the gas or water supply to the heater. It is only necessary to REMOVE THE KNURLED SCREW CAP, PRESS THE BUTTON AND REPLACE THE SCREW CAP. Should conditions causing high water temperature not be corrected, the Hi-Temperature Gas Cut-off will continue to shut off the heater’s gas supply before hazardous temperatures are reached.

Multi-Duty Control

An emergency gas cut-off which shuts off the entire gas supply to the heater if the temperature of the water in the tank reaches 206 to 212° F.

This has a manual reset for the emergency gas cut-off which does not require the replacement of any parts or even of shutting off the gas supply to re-establish service and therefore can be reset by the owner.

OVEN-HEAT REGULATORS

Robertshaw Automati-Cook

THE MINIMUM BURNER FLAME PILOT AND THE INDEPENDENT PILOT MUST BE PROPERLY ADJUSTED BY THE PERSON INSTALLING THE RANGE. NO OTHER ADJUSTMENTS SHOULD BE MADE UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY, AS THESE FEATURES HAVE BEEN TAKEN CARE OF AT THE FACTORY.

THE MINIMUM BURNER FLAME PILOT can be adjusted when the oven is either cold or hot. First ignite the oven burner. Then move dial as far below 70 mark as possible. This closes the valve. Whatever gas is then passing to the burner is passing through the By-Pass and should burn about 1/8 in. high over entire burner. If the flame is too high or too low, unscrew knurled protecting cap and, with a screwdriver, turn adjusting valve slowly, either to the right or left, until the proper size Minimum Burner Flame is secured. When the above adjustment has been made, the oven burner flame will never go out completely as long as the oven burner gas cock is turned on.

THE INDEPENDENT PILOT is the small yellow flame that burns near the oven burner. It is a precautionary pilot and serves to relight the burner in case the Minimum Burner Flame Pilot is improperly adjusted. It is lighted with the burner and extinguished when the burner is shut off. By turning small screw at end