Florence and Tuscany
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About this ebook
Tuscany is located in the central western part of Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea. It gets its name from an Etruscan tribe that settled the area about three thousand years ago. It has belonged to the Romans, the Lombards, and the Franks.
More than four hundred years ago under the Medicis, Tuscany became a major European center. It is undoubtedly one of Italy's top tourist destinations as well as an ideal place for your villa when you hit it big, huge.
Florence is the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and the administrative center of Tuscany. It is one of Italy’s top tourist destinations, whose sites of interest are too numerous to list here. Siena and Pisa are two other major tourist destinations.
Tuscany is a center of industrial production, in particular metallurgy, chemicals, and textiles. Given the region’s importance as an international art center for centuries, don’t be surprised that it is an excellent place to appreciate and purchase fashion, jewelry,
leather goods, marble, and other items of beauty. Florence is the home of the house of Gucci.
Tuscany produces a wide variety of cereal, olives, vegetables, and fruit. But not only vegetarians eat well. It is home to cattle, horses, pigs, and poultry. One local specialty is the wild boar. On the coast, seafood is abundant.
Tuscany devotes over one hundred fifty thousand acres to grapevines, it ranks 4th among the 20 Italian regions. Its total annual wine production is about 58 million gallons, giving it the 8th place. About 70% of the wine production is red or rose', leaving 30% for white. The region produces 44 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine and 7 DOCG white wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is, in fact, no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. The region produces 9 DOCG wines. Tuscany also produces Super Tuscan wines, wines that may not have a prestigious classification but that are known to be outstanding.
This guide covers a visit to Florence and to Tuscany: the cities covered include Fiesole, Arezzo, Cortona, Chiusi, the Chianti region, Siena, Volterra, San Gimignano, Pisa, Carrara, Massa, the Versilia, Lucca, Pistoia, Montepulciano, Pienza, Grosseto, Massa Marittima, and Monte Argentario.
There are extensive descriptions and photos of the attractions.
The guide contains links to the websites of train and air travel companies.
It also has a listing of many reviews for the best-recommended restaurants that are at walking distance from the location where lunch or dinner are planned.
Enrico Massetti
Enrico Massetti nació en Milán, Italia, donde vivió durante más de 30 años, visitando innumerables destinos turísticos, desde las montañas de los Alpes hasta el mar de Sicilia. Ahora vive en Washington, Estados Unidos. Sin embargo, visita regularmente su ciudad natal y disfruta recorriendo todos los lugares de su país, especialmente aquellos a los que puede llegar en transporte público. Puede contactar con Enrico en enrico@italian-visits.com.
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Florence and Tuscany - Enrico Massetti
Plenty of things to do before going.
These are the few things you have to do before making a two-day visit to Florence possible:
Make Accademia reservations for mid-morning of the second day, you can do it online at http://www.uffizi.com/accademia-gallery-florence.asp. The Accademia is a must-see, although it shouldn't take more than an hour of your precious time. Michaelangelo's David is worth the admission, and you can take as little as 30 seconds of looking or 30 minutes of studying the sculptures. The other pieces in the museum are excellent, mainly the other Michaelangelo sculptures.
Make your hotel reservations
Make your train and/or air reservation
Unfortunately, to visit the Galleria degli Uffizi, you would need to spend a lot of time waiting in line, even if you make an advance reservation you still would have to wait for hours. It has therefore not been included in this itinerary.
The morning of the first day:
a view on Florence
View of Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo.
Before starting to see Florence one should first look down from the top of one of its grey stone towers at the red sea of roofs lying between the hills, scattered with villas, cypresses, and olive groves. The natural setting of the city is superb.
We start our visit to Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo, the most famous observation point of the cityscape of Florence, reproduced in countless postcards and a must-see for anyone visiting the city.
San Miniato
San Miniato
The old town can be appreciated in its entirety from the surrounding hills, especially from Forte Belvedere, from the Piazzale Michelangelo with the Romanesque Basilica of San Miniato al Monte, which offers one of the most beautiful views of the Arno valley.
From this point go up the monumental staircase of San Salvatore to San Miniato, with its façade of inlaid polychrome marble; this is more than decoration, it is color serving to express the architecture; the serene beauty of this façade is a foreshadowing of the Renaissance.
Frescoes by Spinello Aretino
In the interior, this peaceful expression of beauty in marble is continued. In the nave the Chapel of the Crucifix by Michelozzo, in the north aisle, the beautiful tomb by Manetti for a Portuguese Cardinal. In the Sacristy there are frescoes by Spinello Aretino, a pleasing minor master of the late 14th-century.
The crypt is the oldest part of the church (XI-century), is surmounted by the main altar that is supposed to contain the bones of San Miniato (although there is evidence that these had already been brought to Metz before the church was built).
As long as the rectory is concerned, it is accessed through its five arches that lead to three flights of stairs, corresponding respectively to the aisles of the church. The ceiling vaults rest on thirty-eight columns which are divided into three aisles inner and four sides. On this ceiling, there are frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi, dating back to 1341.
Forte Belvedere
Forte Belvedere
From here you can walk 15 minutes to Forte Belvedere (late 16th-century) which houses detached frescoes from various parts of Tuscany. Beneath is the Boboli Garden.
Today, the Forte Belvedere is one of the most beautiful sights of the city, hence the name, which competes advantageously with the Piazzale Michelangelo. During the summer, it is open to the public until late at night and includes a bar-restaurant and a nightclub. In 2006, the Alberto della Ragione Collection was exhibited and at a vantage point on the ramparts was placed a large sofa, a dozen meters long.
Going through the rusticated Porta San Giorgio, we come into the almost country lane of Via San Leonardo down which we walk towards the monumental complex of the Baptistery and the Cathedral.
This walk takes about 15 minutes.
The Baptistery
The Baptistery
We start our visit to the monuments of the old town with the most ancient building in Florence: the Baptistery.
It is of the 11th-century and has the same clean and linear architectural lines as San Miniato.
Venetian mosaic on the dome
The interior is an elegant octagon with a glittering Venetian mosaic on the vault.
On either side of the altar stand the impressive Mary Magdalene and the Papal Tomb by Donatello.
The Gate of Paradise
The bronze doors are of different periods; that facing the Cathedral, which Michelangelo called The Gate of Paradise, is the masterpiece of Lorenzo Ghiberti (1378-1455).
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore
Opposite the Baptistery is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The facade is from the 19th-century, but the interior impresses by the pure harmony with which the Florentines adopted (or perhaps adapted) the Gothic style. Giotto took part in the building of the Cathedral, which was completed by that genius of the early Renaissance, Brunelleschi, with his mighty dome.
Dante - Domenico di Michelino
In the north aisle, there are the fresco portraits of Dante, by Domenico di Michelino, of two captains of the Florentine army, the Essex knight, Sir John Hawkwood (Giovanni Acuto
) by Paolo Uccello, and Niccolò da Tolentino by Andrea del Castagno.
Campanile di Giotto
Leaving by the door at the end of the church, in the south aisle, we note the sharp curve of the apse and the rich shape of the Campanile, or bell-tower, which Giotto planned at seventy years of age.
Michelangelo - Pietà Bandini
The Opera del Duomo Museum is located just east of the Duomo, near its apse. It opened in 1891, and now houses what has been called "one of the world's most important collections of sculpture."
In the museum, there is the most dramatically eloquent of the four Pietà carved by Michelangelo, the one that the sculptor intended for his own tomb.
There are also some essential sculptures, including the Choir, with its garlands of putti and the realistic statue of the Prophet Habbakuk (known to the Florentines as lo Zuccone,
or Old Baldpate
) by Donatello.
The Duomo with Brunelleschi Dome
Orsanmichele
Orsanmichele
Along Via dei Calzaioli we pass Orsanmichele, a church as reliable as a fortress. Round its sides, between the richly decorated windows, there are statues by Donatello, Nanni di Banco, Ghiberti, Verrocchio and Giambologna. The shadowy interior is commanded by the Tabernacle, a masterpiece of sculpture as minute as a goldsmith’s work, by Andrea Orcagna (14th-century).
Next to Orsanmichele, there is an excellent example of Medieval civic architecture, the Palazzo dell'Arte della Lana.
Piazza della Signoria
Piazza della Signoria
From this point, it is only a few yards to Piazza della Signoria, the center of Florentine life for ten centuries. Here the people rejoiced in happy times and gathered in times of trouble; here Savonarola was burnt, artists displayed flit works they had just finished, and festivals, the Medici theatrical performances, and wedding processions took place. Here they still play the football match in 16th-century costume, which recalls ancient Florence.
When the Renaissance came along, this Piazza was already built, and it had to look elsewhere for space to express itself. The Palazzo delta Signoria was finished in 1314, but it took two more centuries to create the interior as we know it today. Gazing up from the ground, it makes one giddy, not so much for the height (308 ft.) but for the boldness with which the tower soars from the façade – a rare example of strength and elegance combined.
Loggia della Signoria
The Loggia della Signoria demonstrates with its semicircular arches that the Renaissance spirit was already mature in Florentine artists a century before. It was made in 1381. Here Benvenuto Cellini left his masterpiece, the Perseus, with its four base statuettes, perhaps even more perfect than the more massive statue.
A loggia is an architectural feature which is a covered exterior gallery or corridor usually on an upper level, or sometimes ground level. The outer wall is open to the elements, often supported by a series of columns or arches.
From the early Middle Ages, nearly every Italian comune had an open arched loggia in its central square which served as a symbol of communal justice and government and as a stage for the civil ceremony.
Michelangelo’s David
Passing a copy of Michelangelo’s David we enter the Palace. The left-hand courtyard has remained as it was in the 14th-century, but all the rest was transformed in the following centuries. From being the seat of government of a Republic, it became a royal palace. Michelozzo built the first courtyard in 1453, a century later, they applied stucco ornaments to the columns.
The Neptune fountain was made