Marathon & Florida's Middle Keys

By Bruce Morris

"The introduction to this guide contains general information about the history, land, climate, flora, and fauna. This introductory chapter also includes an outline of the range of activities available in the Florida Keys and the Everglades National Park.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Hunter Publishing
• Release date: Oct 28, 2009
• ISBN: 9781588438300

Book preview

MARATHON & THE MIDDLE FLORIDA KEYS

Bruce Morris

HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC.

www.hunterpublishing.com

E-mail [e-mail]

IN CANADA:

Ulysses Travel Publications

4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec, Canada H2W 2M5

tel. [phone] ext. 2232 / fax [phone]

IN THE UNITED KINGDOM:

Roundhouse Group

Atlantic Suite, Maritime House, Basin Road North

East Sussex BN41 1WR, England

tel.[phone], fax [phone]

[e-mail]

©  Hunter Publishing, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher.

This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

Introduction

Why Come?

How this Book is Organized

History

Florida Before Columbus

Explorers & Conquistadors

Pirates

Industries

Wrecking

Sponging

Plume Hunting

Cigars

Flagler's Railroad & the Overseas Highway

The Growth of Tourism

The Land

Barrier Reefs & How the Keys Were Formed

The Gulf Stream

Parks & Preserves

The River of Grass

Climate

Summertime

Hurricanes

Wintertime

Flora & Fauna

Birds

Big Cats

Deer

Insects

Raccoons

Reptiles

Life in the Sea

Dolphins

Fish

Manatees

Turtles

Whales

The Florida Keys & the Everglades Today

The Arts

Fairs & Festivals

Food

Cost

Music

People

Gay Life

Indigenous Cultures

Retirees

Conchs

Tourists

Adventures

On Land

Hikes & Walks

Beachcombing

Cycling

By Moped

In the Water

Beaches

Boating

Canoeing & Kayaking

Dolphin Interaction

Fishing

Scuba Diving

Snorkeling

In the Air

Flightseeing Tours

Author's Top Things to Do

Travel Information

The Region At a Glance

The Keys

Key West

Everglades National Park

When to Visit

Holidays & Cultural Events

Marathon & the Middle Keys

At a Glance

Getting Here & Getting Around

Area History & Highlights

Information Source

Sightseeing

Suggested Itineraries

If You Have One Day

If You Have Three Days

If You Have a Week

Beaches

Parks

Adventures

On Foot

Beachcombing

Birding

Bridge Walks

Golfing

On Wheels

On Water

Sailing

Canoeing & Kayaking

Dolphin Encounters

Fishing

Scuba Diving

Snorkeling

Sunset Cruises

Watersports

In the Air

Where to Stay

Ratings & Prices

Hotels & Resorts

Camping

Vacation Rentals

Where to Eat

Recommendations

The Best of the Rest

Nightlife

Introduction

As a boy growing up in Miami I fell in love with the beauty of the Keys and the wilderness of the Everglades. With a friend, I spent my weekends snorkeling, pole fishing along the Tamiami Trail and sailing in the Keys. When I was a teenager, my family moved to the hills of Tennessee (with its own wilderness charms) and I was unable to visit South Florida for almost 20 years. When I managed to return for a visit I was afraid that the over-development and urban sprawl I had seen in other parts of Florida had turned the Keys into just another tacky tourist haven. Thankfully, my fears were unfounded. Certainly, there are more hotels and cheesy, tourist-oriented attractions now than when I was a boy, but the minimal change surprised me. Although not totally unspoiled, both the Keys and the Everglades remain beautiful, full of wildlife and adventure. The fishing, diving and beautiful natural vistas I enjoyed as a boy are still there, and the magic of them can be easily appreciated by car, bike, boat or on foot.

To me, the greatest adventures in the Everglades and Keys involve the wonderful diversity of wildlife, plants and life in the sea. Part, if not most, of the fun of fishing is having an excuse to roam around the flats and reefs checking out birds and sea critters. The best part of scuba diving and snorkeling is looking for - and sometimes coming face-to-face with - some of the strangest looking creatures imaginable. On a short walk along any of the trails in Everglades National Park, you might just spot alligators, crocodiles, vultures or snapping turtles. I'm not much of a birder, but this region of Florida helps me to understand how enthusiasms can grow into intensely absorbing hobbies. Even with my casual knowledge of birds, I enjoy seeing anhingas, diving ducks, pelicans and egrets. I don't keep lists of the fish I see when diving, but I do enjoy browsing through reef fish identification charts after a dive and learning the names and habits of the psychedelically colored fish I encountered.

Adventure is where you find it and what you make it. It can be observing birds nesting, snorkeling almost motionlessly over sawgrass flats, watching shrimp do their thing, or scuba diving at the edge of the Gulf Stream while looking out for bull sharks and pelagic predators. But then, there is also plenty of adventure to be found almost any night on Duval Street in Key West.

Why Come?

Leaving the more earthly delights of Key West aside for a moment, the Keys and Everglades are places for people who enjoy the outdoors, particularly the sea. Because the water here is relatively shallow, calm and accessible, sea life is easily seen and appreciated. Coral reefs - surely one of the wonders of the world - are still astounding and relatively unspoiled, and the austere beauty of the Everglades has been preserved by the creation of the national park, which is now one of the Park Service's crowning jewels.

For the historically curious as well as hard-core party people or laid-back drifters, Key West is a paradise at the end of the road. If you plan to visit briefly for a few nights of fun, or want to stay awhile and gently go to seed (as so many do), Key West has all that lures such ambitions. The smell, flavor and visions of Hemingwayesque Old Key West with its pirates, spongers, quaint homes (many now serving as B&Bs) and historical walks exist in the middle of one of the premier party towns in the US. Key West lures the young, happy partygoers. A popular spring break destination, it has more festivals, street parties and loud, raucous bars and clubs than you'll have time to visit in a week. As a permanent residence for gay living and visits, the tolerant lifestyle and attitudes of the island are renowned.

While one can have a fine time in the Keys or Everglades without ever setting foot in a boat or dipping a toe in the water, the bulk of the area's charms lie offshore on the reefs, flats and in the canals and mangrove estuaries. To get the full Keys or Everglades experience, a boat, canoe, kayak or even an inner tube are required. Drifting over the shallow flats looking in the turtle grass at exotic seahorses is an experience that can't be had elsewhere. Some of the finest coral reefs in the world are hidden just a few miles offshore and are accessibly shallow, well preserved and astounding in their riot of color and unusual formations.

The sportfishing capital of the