Craft Workbook: Sewing
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About this ebook
Charlotte Gerlings
Charlotte Gerlings was born in Reading, England into a home where her mother and grandmother were regularly occupied with dressmaking and stage costumes. She graduated in Publishing from Oxford Polytechnic (now Oxford Brookes) and began work in London as a design assistant with a leading art publisher, before moving into trade publishing. She gained an MA in Fine Art from Wimbledon School of Art and has written books on art history and crafts.
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Book preview
Craft Workbook - Charlotte Gerlings
To Thelma M. Nye, craft editor at B. T. Batsford Ltd for over thirty years and friend and advisor to many grateful authors and designers
Font cover: Shutterstock
Back cover: Photograph reproduced by kind permission of Janome (www.janome.co.uk)
This edition published in 2012 by Arcturus Publishing Limited
26/27 Bickels Yard, 151–153 Bermondsey Street,
London SE1 3HA
Copyright © 2011 Arcturus Publishing Limited
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission in accordance with the provisions of the Copyright Act 1956 (as amended). Any person or persons who do any unauthorised act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages.
ISBN: 978-1-78212-849-6
AD001661EN
CONTENTS
Introduction
PART I:EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS
Equipment
Needles, pins and cutting tools
Thread
Fabric
The sewing machine
Paper patterns
Notions
PART II:HAND SEWING METHODS AND TECHNIQUES
Threading a needle
Straight sewing stitches
Sewing an open seam
Sewing an encased seam
Curves and corners
Mending
Using a seam/hem gauge
Hemming
Casings
PROJECT: Drawstring favour bag
Binding
Gathering and pleating
Smocking
Waistbands and cuffs
Openings and fastenings
Making a hand-sewn buttonhole
Attaching set-in sleeves
Trimming: Beads, sequins and bows
PROJECT: Apron
Trimming: Edgings, rouleau and appliqué
PART III:MACHINE SEWING METHODS AND TECHNIQUES
Threading the sewing machine
The bobbin
The importance of tension
Troubleshooting
Stitch width
Machining special fabrics
Machining an encased seam
Machined seam finishes
Making darts
Shaped facings
Inserting a zip fastener
Topstitching
Machining a buttonhole
Shirring
Making piping [cording]
PROJECT: Dachshund draught excluder
Laundry and aftercare
Sewing terms
INTRODUCTION
The first needles were made from cattle bone and used to sew animal hides together with lengths of sinew. Between then and now, people have sewn clothes for warmth, tents for shelter, sails for voyages of exploration, and flags for nations. It could be argued that a needle and thread in a skilled pair of hands has played as great a part in civilization as the invention of the wheel.
However, as everyday items around the home, needles and thread are mere clutter until we unlock their potential – together with our own – and master the basic techniques of sewing. This book has been prepared with beginners in mind, providing a step-by-step illustrated guide from threading a needle and learning basic stitches, to cutting and shaping fabric, and machine sewing with confidence. Whether you are just starting to sew or would like a refresher, this book aims to be a handy reference. The terminology used throughout is UK-standard, together with the relevant US terms in square brackets [ ] to make this a practical guide for all readers.
There are sections on all types of equipment; threads, fabrics and trimmings; how to read paper patterns; and what goes into making a garment. One complete part is devoted to the sewing machine, especially useful nowadays when more and more households are investing in one. Other sections deal with smaller but important matters such as making repairs, using a seam gauge or inserting a zip. Finally, the book contains three easy projects for you to practise your sewing skills, before embarking on the more ambitious ones you have planned.
PART ONE:
EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT
A Needles, pins, pin cushion(s)
B Fabric and reels of thread
C Thimble
D Seam ripper
E Dressmaking shears
F Scissors
G Embroidery scissors
H Thread snips [nippers]
I Pinking shears
J Seam gauge
K Transparent ruler
L Fibreglass tape measure
M Tailor’s chalk
N Beeswax
O Iron
P Sleeveboard for dressmaking
Q Sleeve roll and tailor’s ham for dressmaking
R Sewing machine
NEEDLES, PINS AND CUTTING TOOLS
Hand sewing needles are manufactured in a wide range of lengths and thicknesses; the higher the number the finer the needle. Decide on the best needle for the job from the following basic list:
1 Sharps Medium-length and pointed, with a round eye, for general sewing with standard cotton or polyester thread.
2 Crewel or embroidery Pointed like sharps but with a long oval eye like a tapestry needle, for thicker or multiple threads.
3 Blunt-tipped Used for sewing knitted items, designed not to split the yarn.
4 Betweens Very short and sharp, with a small round eye. Used for fine stitching and quilting.
5 Milliners or straws Very long and thin, with a round eye, for