Roll's Round the World

By Rowley Macklin

In 2007 Rowley decided to backpack around the World for over a year. The mission: to inject some change and new experiences into his dull and predictable life. This is a light-hearted and humorous travel diary of his time in the USA, Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panamá, Colombia, Venezuela, Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, Chile, New Zealand, Australia and The Philippines.

Plenty of action, near deaths, adventure and misadventure, backpacking tips and prices. But most importantly some wonderful places and characters from around the World...

Some past reviews:

- Very good read,couldn't put the book down.
Very good book with a lot of action in it,wish i was on that journey but has inspired me to travel the world 1 day (Norman Worley)

- Better than Bryson?!
This has to be the best narrative of travel writing I have read since Bill Bryson. There are laugh out loud moments, as well as sheer shocking ones. A great, easy read. I recommend it highly, especially if you've travelled in the same regions, as it will be a great reminder of some fantastic travel memories. (DGG)

- Good book
Really enjoyable book only let down by the atrocious punctuation and a few factual errors. plurals do not have an apostrophe and the mayans are a long gone civilisation! That said, well written travelogue, would buy more of Mr Macklin`s ebooks (Shelley2802)

- Fascinating read
Fascinating read. It will make you want to grab your backpack and embark on your own adventure. Would recommend to anyone.

• Language: English
• Publisher: Rowley Macklin
• Release date: Apr 26, 2013
• ISBN: 9780957487055

Rowley Macklin

Rowley Macklin was born and raised in London, Notting Hill. After quite a varied career ranging from network engineer to ostrich farmer he has finally settled into the role of rice harvester in the Philippines and on few occasions is known to work in the IT Industry as a front end developer. He has also travelled extensively in Africa, Europe & the Far East. This is his first written works.

Book preview

Roll’s Round the World

A Travel Diary by Rowley Macklin

Copyright © 2013 by Rowley Macklin

Published by Rowley Macklin

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Dedicated to …EM & JM

Inspiring me in the past

...and now inspiring my future...

A huge thanks…

I would like to thank all the good people I met along the way. Without them, this book would have just been a fantasy. The hospitality of most people in their own countries was amazing. If I was half as hospitable in my own country, I would be proud of myself.

Gilbert, Guatemalan Walnut-faced Ninja Hero, Lorenzo, Javier (Guatemala), the homeless guy in San Jose, Javier (Colombia), Miss Bolivia, Fernando & Lena, Elvis, Gero, Joshua, The Elbow Kid, Bill & Bob & Billy-Bob, 'Gary' in La Paz Prison, Tintin, Joyce, Sheng, Sharan, Victor, Inkin' Ian.

Of course a special thanks goes to all the good people I was fortunate to travel or party with, even for a short while and prove my point that travellers who meet go through a process of 'Power Bonding.' Most people I travelled with I probably know better within a few months than people I have known for years. Naomi, Beachy & Shawnie, Doug & Amber, Phil, Angel, Lucy, Claire, Pam, Marcus & Theresa, Fab Fabio, Herbie The Hermit, Jess & Rob, Sumi, Mia, Joey, Matheus & Christina, Anne-Marie & Antoine, Torpen The Pipe, Aussie Mick, Andre, Jorge, Karsten, Tim, Adam & Wendy, Adam, Chris, Hannah, Meera & Dijle, Eugenie & Christian, Sean, Carolina, Jack, Nick, Steve, Angus, Goose, Will, Steve, Chris, Northern Minkettes Surekha & Krina, Helen, Vicky, Sophie, Ben, Alex, Daniel, Pablo & Barbera, Beate, Scouse Paul, Northern Monkey's Ivan & Chris, Susannah, Sarah, Mafalda, Neves, Samir, Liuba, Enrique & Daliena, Danny & Hayley, Dan, Frederico, Martin & Stina, Sheridan & Bonnie & James & Astrid, Robbie & Belinda & Jake & Jessica & Tusker & Rafiki, Hayley & Tom, Patrick, Coleen, Frank & Patricia, Christian, Stewart, Rebecca, Fiona, Rachel, Nicola, Mike, SAS Assassin 'I could kill you with my lil finger' Gerard, Graham, Andrea, Melissa, Corinne, Mark, Danny, Paddy.

Finally, I would like to thank everyone who read my online travel blog regularly and by doing so kept me writing enthusiastically. If nobody had read it, I sure as hell wouldn't have continued writing it. Dad, Mum, Leisa, Martin, Norman, Robbie, Belinda and Mick (the main culprits). Big thanks go out to you.

Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness. - Mark Twain

The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page. - St. Augustine

People travel to faraway places to watch, in fascination, the kind of people they ignore at home. - Dagobert D. Runes

For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move. - Robert Louis Stevenson

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. - Mark Twain

The journey not the arrival matters. - T. S. Eliot

If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home. - James Michener

Playlist

These tunes both helped tempt me into travelling and helped keep me going during rough times of travel. I never underestimate music and its soothing musical goodness...

- Free Bird - Lynyrd Skynyrd

- Ramblin' Man - Lemon Jelly

- Southern Cross - Cosby, Stills and Nash

- Universal Traveller - Air

- Back on the Road - Earth, Wind & Fire

- Sitting in Limbo - Jimmy Cliff

- Point of View - DB Boulevard

- Magic Carpet Ride - Steppenwolf

- Traveller's Tune - Ocean Colour Scene

- Comin' Home - Lynyrd Skynyrd

- Pure Shores - All Saints

- Time Won't Let Me Go - The Bravery

- Wish You Were Here - Pink Floyd

- You Give a Little Love - Paul Williams (Bugsy Malone)

- All Over the World - Electric Light Orchestra (ELO)

- Edge of the Ocean - Ivy

- Free - Deniece Williams

- Hit the Road Jack - Ray Charles

- I'm Mandy (Fly Me) - 10CC

- Road Trippin' - Red Hot Chilli Peppers

- Roam - B52's

- Sweet Home Alabama - Lynyrd Skynyrd

- Take the Long Way Home - Supertramp

- Three Little Birds - Bob Marley

- Top of the World - The Carpenters

- Passing By - Zero7

- Wake Up Everybody - Harold Melvin & The Bluenotes

- Wisemen - James Blunt

- The Staunton Lick - Lemon Jelly

- The Wind - Cat Stevens

Table of Contents

Chapter 1 - USA

Chapter 2 - MEXICO

Chapter 3 - GUATEMALA

Chapter 4 - HONDURAS

Chapter 5 - NICARAGUA

Chapter 6 - COSTA RICA

Chapter 7 - PANAMA

Chapter 8 - COLOMBIA

Chapter 9 - VENEZUELA

Chapter 10 - BRAZIL

Chapter 11 - ARGENTINA

Chapter 12 - BOLIVIA

Chapter 13 - PERU

Chapter 14 - CHILE

Chapter 15 - NEW ZEALAND

Chapter 16 - AUSTRALIA

Chapter 17 - THE PHILIPPINES

London, 11 Feb 2007

You're just like cross-town traffic, so hard to get through to you.

I guess the seed of the idea to pack up everything and travel around the world for a year all started on a cold, London Monday morning. I was stuck in what felt like 1,000 miles of traffic on the A406 (London North Circular), on my way to work. Looking around I saw the usual array of smiling happy people, honking horns, one-fingered salutes, verbal abuse, four-wheel drives with fake mud on the sides, exhaust fumes so thick I couldn't see the beautiful grey buildings on either side.

I was thinking about the usual nonsense that you do when wasting your life away in two hours of traffic: the price of petrol, how quickly the week would finish, what's on TV tonight, can I get back from work in time to beat the return journey traffic, when will Chelsea win the title and of course ...is this what life is all about?

Then, a song came on the radio that stirred the brain. It was Free Bird by Lynyrd Skynyrd. Although just a song, it made me wonder where I was right now in life. More importantly, what I could do about it. I was in a good job but I needed more. I was also in a long-term relationship that was beyond repair and very soon to be finished. I could change jobs? Change the relationship?

Then thirty minutes later Rambin' Man by Lemon Jelly came on. That was it! The final sign for me and in my mind I was already planning the next few years of my life. One thing I was certain of ...I wasn't going to be here on the North Circular next year! I would be staring at amazing sights (not exhaust fumes and grey buildings), meeting new people and living a carefree life for a while. My life needed an injection of change ...serious change.

Everyone has their reasons to travel: finding themselves, running away from themselves, to open their minds, meet new people, romance, and relaxation, get inspiration and of course ...find cheaper beer and drugs. My reason is quite simple; change. I'm not going to pretend I'm travelling to find my 'inner self'. For me, life's just too short not to travel. My mind craved new sights, sounds and experiences.

With The USA, Mexico, Central America, South America, Oceania and Southeast Asia in my mind I started making plans in my mind. I would have to save money as I've never saved before. Pot Noodles for dinner, bread and water for lunch, tea and porridge for breakfast, no weekend binges, no new clothes, sell the car. In fact, sell everything! Sell ...Sell ...Sell! eBay was my hobby and best friend after that.

London, six months later

Time won't let me go...

Within six months, I had saved enough money and settled my mind enough to start planning in earnest. I had my tickets booked and started organising my travel gear.

When I travelled in Africa, many centuries ago, I had used an 80-litre pack and very nearly destroyed my back in the process (and morale) for years after that. So this time round I was going to be Spartan with my belongings ...35 litres was my limit! Also, in the back of my mind I knew Central and South America weren't the safest places on Earth, so with minimal belongings I wouldn't be too fussed about losing them.

The departure date really is approaching mightily fast now. Most of my spare time at the moment is spent planning, organising and dreaming about destinations as well as driving most of my friends, work mates and family mad with constant talk of destinations and the perfect socks for hiking, the benefits of top-loading rucksacks vs. side zipped ones and silk sleeping sheets vs. cotton. Not the most interesting things to talk about in any circumstance but I'm in the travel zone and as my Mum would put it 'I'm already there'.

I have consciously not planned my route too much because I know from experience while you're on the road it changes depending on mood, money and recommendations. So, for the moment it's all about getting my travel gear in order: the pack, some clothes, medical stuff, this blog, paperwork and reading travel books and watching some travel documentaries.

Anyone who has travelled before will know, the anticipation of travel is almost as good as the travel itself. I don't think I've ever been this excited in my life.

Oh, and I'm also packing up all my worldly possessions because as of August 1st I am pretty much a homeless man (not strictly in the pushing a Tesco's shopping trolley, singing 'Papa was a rolling stone' and wearing a ludicrous hat and shoes made of a potatoes sack sense. Sort of between somewhere to live.

Anyway, this will be my last entry while I'm in Good Old Sunny England. The next entry will be from the US of A. Specifically New York city where my travels begin with my friend Naomi, who has chosen to join me for the first leg of this trip.

Hopefully, after eating King Kong sized portions of food and supping at the mystical springs and rivers of beer that I've been promised over there, I'll still be able to write on my mini mobile keyboard using sausage-sized fingers. We shall see.

Chapter 1 - USA

New York City, 03 Aug 2007

We're having a heat wave...a tropical heat wave…

Sweet Jesus it's hot here! It's so hot I've seen families sitting on chairs outside on the pavement of East 3rd street watching TV with a side-table full of drinks. Obviously a lot cooler outdoors than indoors. I very nearly joined them.

The journey to get here was pretty uneventful. Mind you, the flight itself was quite hairy with some heart-stopping turbulence. There were a lot of screaming US college kids on the flight, so for a brief moment I thought I was in the film Final Destination. Oh, and it took three hours to get through JFK's security: finger scans, retina scans, x-rays, nose scans, photos and forms to fill in. A bit over the top but they have their reasons of course.

My base for a few days here with my travel buddy Naomi is a 3-room dormitory style mini hostel on East 3rd street. It's kind of a rough old place. In fact when I walked up the steps to get to the door there was an old brother lying across the top step, drunk as a skunk but at $32 a night who can grumble.

We took a long walk through some nice historical ethnic areas in the evening, passing through Little Italy (I think we walked through the main street they used in The Godfather) and China Town where we had a top notch belly-expanding dinner for $6.

I'm a bit spaced out today with lack of sleep and jet lag so early night tonight as there's way too much to see and do for my last full day in New York tomorrow.

New York City, 04 Aug 2007

Feeling hot hot hot...

Yep, it's still boiling here. According to my accurate internal thermometer, it is 2 million degrees centigrade. So an early rise today to get as much in before the heat gets even more ridiculous.

Had a gut bursting breakfast of pancakes, bacon and syrup then Naomi and I marched all the way from China Town to Battery Park. The plan was to get the tour ferry to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island (where all the immigrants coming over were processed in the old days). I saw the huge queues and thought better of it. Instead, we got the free Staten Island ferry, which goes close enough to the Statue of Liberty to get a view and a feel of it.

After that we walked on to Ground Zero and had a look around the big gaping hole that used to be the Twin Towers. Very poignant and we both stood there for a while in contemplation. Obviously there was a lot of construction going on so didn't stay too long.

Had a huge hot dog lunch in a park in Wall Street where I rubbed shoulders with the kind of folk that shout 'Buy...buy....sell, sell!' every two minutes. Next stop was a subway ride to Brooklyn Heights so I could get a good view of Manhattan. And what a view it was. All manner of ships and boats cruising by, with huge skyscrapers in the background.

By this time I was already knackered and my brand new state-of-the-art $150 sandals had decided to start a war with my heels. The heels lost in the end and much blistering and bleeding followed. After numerous plasters were attached I carried on, cursing the sandals in between wowing at the views. I was surprised I wasn't arrested for littering as there was a trail of plasters wherever I went.

I couldn't really come to New York without seeing a bit of Central Park, so off to the subway again. I really like Central Park. It looks very natural and most importantly it retains a high number of freaky character dudes (as seen in most films set in New York).

There was a guy who had developed a new style of Tai Chi, which involved wiggling his arse around in the air (dance-hall stylee). Between each wiggle there would be a kick and punch combo. There was another dude who was walked up to everyone (including me), did a crap rap and then asked me what I thought of his new rap. Not understanding a single word of it and totally out of rhythm, all I could say was, Brilliant!

Fifth Avenue beckoned in the late afternoon. Shopping definitely wasn't on my list but I just wanted to soak up the consumer madness. It was absolutely jam packed with mad shoppers. I did pass by the Playboy Empire building and was very tempted to pop my head in to see His Lord Luckiness old Hugh Hefner himself.

Last stop of the day was the Empire State Building. I was really looking forward to this as I had heard the views over Manhattan and surrounding areas are beautiful. Walking inside we faced a huge queue. I thought, OK it'll be worth the wait so I queued ...and then I queued ...and then I queued some more. Two hours later we managed to get to the security checkpoint. The usual emptying of pockets and X-rays of my bag resulted in them confiscating my Swiss Army Knife until later. Their point being that I could have easily held up 400 people and a building hostage with it. Then followed a 30-minute queue to pay. Almost my entire daily budget was used to pay the steep $18 charge. Then another 30 minute queue to catch the lift up.

Finally, we get to the top and it was rammed with people. So it takes ages just get a glimpse of a view. Mind you when I did get a glimpse, it was a stunning view of Manhattan Island and Brooklyn.

On the way out, I had to queue again to collect my confiscated knife from the head of security. As I picked it up his parting nugget of advice was Hey, you shouldn't be carrying that thing around New York mister, it's dangerous. To which I muttered under my breath, Yeah, very true. I'll be sure to leave the particularly deadly plastic toothpick at home next time.

By night, my feet and legs were so sore from twelve hours of city walking that I couldn't even feel my bleeding blisters anymore (hurrah!).

Nice NY style pizza for dinner and a few bevies on Houston Street (all for $10...nice.). Got to get some rest for tomorrow's drive to Washington DC. After all this walking it's going to be nice to drive for a bit. I hope that my partner-in-crime Naomi is up to the navigational challenge.

NYC to Washington DC, 05 Aug 2007

Drop it like it’s hot…

Woke up to another scorcher in NYC. Mission this morning was to find an Internet cafe. Not an easy task apparently. It took two hours to find one near Houston. Next mission was to pick up the hire car. A bargain at $1000 (for a month) + $199 return fee as the car will have to get back from San Francisco to New York.

The car I originally ordered was a super economy car (possibly a 2-door Fiat?). My thinking was, as long as it gets me to San Francisco who cares. What I actually got was a Pontiac G6 GT Supercharged two million BHP with all the trimmings at no extra charge (Reeeeeesult!!).

Driving around New York was a daunting task but after 1 million honking horns and Arse hole! comments from cabbies (thought I was back in London for a while), I started enjoying it.

It was time to leave New York. Not a bad thing really. Don't get me wrong I really liked what I saw of NYC, even for the short time I was there but I don't like staying too long in one City (too easy, too expensive and too addictive and tempting to stay).

So, in the early afternoon I drove past New Jersey (popping into Tony Soprano's place for some Taglioni and Meatballs and a chat) then onto Interstate 95 south.

230 miles, 10 serious traffic jams and 1 serious swerve to avoid a broom lying on the road later, Naomi and I arrived in Washington DC and found a motel for $45 a night. Result, as I can park the car, get free Internet and have a night swim in the pool.

Washington DC & The Blue Ridge Mountains,

07 Aug 2007

Onnnnnnnnn the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia...

Ok, let me get the weather out of the way. It's even hotter than NYC here in Washington DC (100 F). Early start today to see some sites in DC.

First stop was a visit to Dubya's place (The White House). Walking around the centre of DC at the weekend is weird because it is so quiet, hardly anyone around. It seems at weekends all the workers go out of town leaving the centre desolate (good news for my sight-seeing anyway).

The White House was impressive but smaller than I expected. Had a brief chat and took a photo of an old dude who has been protesting against war for the last few decades. Apparently, he and his girlfriend do six-hour shifts of sit-down protesting. They have a nest for sleeping and eating set up directly opposite the White House (fair play to them).

Next was a one-hour (sweat inducing and 2 stone weight losing) walk to the Abraham Lincoln memorial. It was all very impressive and grand. The Americans really know how to build big. Walked up the steps and sat down there with an ice cream so I could re-enact Clint Eastwood in the film In the line of fire.

I could have spent all day in DC visiting museums and galleries but the Blue Ridge Mountain's beckoned. I was sweating like a pig and thought I would seriously self-combust when I got into the car ready for the long drive.

Off we drove, with the air-conditioner on full blast to freshen us up for the next few hours. After a few minutes, it seemed to be getting hotter and hotter. Was I really self-combusting? Why is it hotter in here than outside? Even Naomi was nearly fainting from the heat. Perplexed I parked up on a lay-by for some investigating.

After checking myself and the car I let out a big 'DOH’ when I realised the air con was on heat blower and to make the situation just that little bit worse I'd accidentally switched on my driver seat heater for the last ten minutes of the drive (damn those modern futuristic buttons!).

I know it's common knowledge but petrol really is cheap here. I've worked out I can make 340 miles for $38 (nice). Also, driving really is smooth here: good roads, clear signs, patient drivers and because of this, time seems to fly by on the road. So the three hour drive to Shenandoah National Park (part of the Blue Ridge Mountain range) was smoooooth (with a capital SMOO).

The $15 entrance fee into a park was easily worth it for some stunning scenery. We did a two-hour hike down to a waterfall and splashed around a bit in the freezing cold water, which certainly woke myself and my blistering ankles up. My cursed sandals have been demoted to backpack ballast at the bottom of the pack now. Damn them!

Found a lodge within the park that had tented chalets for $26 a night. Sadly, its high season here and everything was full so had to drive to small town called Harringburg where I found the usual cheap and cheerful Motel for $30 a night. God bless the cheap Motels.

Tomorrow I'm going to finish the drive through Blue Ridge using the Blue Ridge Parkway and then onto the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

On a side note communication has been a doddle here and people are ultra friendly everywhere (well, maybe not in NYC). Although one major problem keeps cropping up for me. Soda water is my favoured daytime drink of choice in hot weather. The words 'Soda Water' seems to draw a blank with everyone working in shops? I have tried 'Sparkling water', 'Fizzy water', 'Carbonated water' and I've even resorted to making bubbling noises to try and describe it. It's given me a complex now so I'm on the plain water until I can get to the bottom of this mystery.

Shaconage (Great Smoky Mountains), 08 Aug 2007

Don't go chasing Waterfalls...

Woke up with 25 bed bug bites all over my body. My research into the merits of silk sleeping sheets was obviously a load of bollocks really. I suspect I am now the carrier of two rival bed bug gangs who use me as food to sustain their gang fights.

We needed to stock up on essentials for a day of hiking in the Smokey's so went for a trip to Wal-Mart. Sweet Jesus the place is huge. It would put any Tesco's Supermarket to shame. Out of curiosity, I had a look at their firearms section and nearly bought a rifle for the bargain price of $650. Can't see this catching on at Tesco's back home.

The drive into the Smokey's was very scenic: lush and greenery everywhere. Made a stop at the Cherokee Indian Reservation and had a quick look at all the Native American gear. A lot of wigwams, leather gear and feathers. But sadly there's no space in my pack for any of it.

Parked the car in the middle of the Mountains and we did some serious hiking. Really stunning forests with butterflies everywhere, rivers and waterfalls. Obviously had a splash around the falls to cool down. Apparently, there are bears around these parts so whenever I heard a rustle in the bushes I was on serious red alert mode.

I once read somewhere that punching an attacking bear in the nose sorts them out. Not sure if I'm inclined to agree with that. It would probably just tickle them. Another option is to curl up in a ball or to wave your arms in the air and yell, to make yourself seem bigger. Pot luck really, depends if it's hungry or not. Anyway, I wouldn't hang around long enough to test these theories. I'd be too busy watching it from above in a tree, hoping it isn't in the mood for climbing.

After a good day's hiking, I drove to Gatlinburg and found a place to rest for the night. A bit pricier than the usual place but Naomi and I were both knackered.

Had a quick dinner in town. I'm noticing some mighty hefty people here. It's not just the buildings and scenery that's big in The US of A.

Quite a long drive tomorrow and we should reach Nashville (home of country music) by late lunch. Can't wait. I hope the bed bugs have decided to settle down, retire in the forests, and feast on some hefty bears instead.

Nashville, 09 Aug 2007

I'm on the road again...

Late rise today as I had a bed bug free sleep. Long drive ahead from Gatlinburg to Nashville (4 hours and 280 miles).

I have brought with me an 8-CD Spanish learning collection, as I need to get a good Spanish grounding for when I reach Central and South America. The promise by Michelle Thomas himself (the course lecturer) is that I'll have a good grounding within 12 hours. Où est la Piscine s'il vous plaît?

During a petrol stop, I had the misfortune to park next to a pickup truck with big lights, huge antlers on the front and full of rednecks drinking beer (all very cliché). It looked like all they were doing was sitting there drinking beer and shouting racist abuse at any Mexicans or Afro-Americans walking out of the shop. Goddamn Mexicano ...gowaaan back home...etc. Very weird and very disturbing.

Nashville is El Scorchio!! (104 F). We seemed to have arrived in the US during a major heat wave. Couldn't find any extra cheap lodgings so opted for a chain motel (Comfort Inn at $45 a night). As we had arrived in the late afternoon and the heat was stifling I made good use of the Motel pool for a splash around.

Relaxed in the evening at a country bar supping a few beers and watching some live country bands. Fantastic foot stomping stuff.

Nashville just seeps music. Everywhere you go in the music district there were guitar players outside, inside and just about everywhere. I suppose that's why they call it Music City.

The plan for tomorrow is to explore the city and in the evening do some Cowboy Slide Dancing steps and see a live Blue Grass band.

Nashville, 10 Aug 2007

Walk the line...

Early morning the temperature was nearing 100 Fahrenheit in Nashville. Holy shit this heat's too much for sightseeing. Still, had a look round the place. Saw the famous Studio 8 where loads of stars recorded, then Music row (where all the record companies and studios are). Also spent most of the afternoon in the Country Music Hall of Fame. Brilliant place to learn about the roots of country and Rock n Roll and a bargain at $14.

Food is well cheap here (as well as all over the US). Had a pasta lunch for $6.99. At night, the lively District beckoned. Nearly every bar (roughly 50) had a live band of some kind of music. Stopped off in BB King's bar for a few Buds and heard some live country rock. Then onto my favourite of the night Lilly's Bluegrass and Hillbilly Country Bar (great live band playing).

That night I did a lot of Whoopin and a Hollerin, some Rebel Slidin and a bit of Country Stompin. Top atmosphere all round. A swift nightcap at Tootsies and then off home to rest before tomorrow morning's long drive to Memphis. Elvis beckons. Thank you very much.

Memphis, 11 Aug 2007

I'm going to Graceland, Graceland, in Memphis Tennessee.

After a 3.5-hour and 210 mile drive, I'm onto CD 3 of the Spanish lessons now. Donde esta Memphis por favor?) I arrived in Memphis. As usual, it is seriously hot (102 F).

There are four things I really wanted to experience here and altogether I managed to do three of them.

First up was a visit to the Stax Museum of Soul Music ($12) where some of my favourite soul singers started out: Otis Redding, Carla Thomas, Booker T, Sam & Dave and Isaac Hayes. Great museum where you can hear and see the roots of Soul come alive. They even had Isaac Hayes pimped up car with fluffy carpet interior.

Next on my list was to see where the King himself lived. Graceland itself was surprisingly good. I thought it would be quite tacky but it was all in good taste. What surprised me the most was how small it was? I thought Elvis would live in a huge palace. I guess it shows in some ways what a humble person he was. Seeing Elvis's grave was a very sombre moment indeed.

Number three on my list was to see my all time favourite soul singer Al Green (now the Reverend Al Green) lead a three hour service at the Full Gospel Tabernacle in Rev Al Green Road. I was really looking forward to hearing him sing with his gospel choir but sadly (should have worked this out better) it only happens on Sundays. I'm only here for a day and night so due to time limitations (and bad planning by me) can't make it.

Number 4 was to hear some low down dirty blues. So off to Beale Street in the early evening for some Southern Fried Chicken and fried green tomatoes. I was sitting in the same Blue's bar where my Dad 8 years previously sat and had a few beers himself.

Then bar after bar of top live blues bands. Saw a great impromptu band in a small park playing some funk but my favourite was a blues band from Memphis called 2 Weeks Notice who played loads of classic blues and some Lynyrd Skynyrd thrown in. My request of Free Bird was eagerly played and very gratefully received. They were so good I bought the CD.

I have to say Memphis is without a doubt my favourite place in the US so far. It's got history, grit, friendliness and real soul. Nashville was a bit tacky in comparison. If I had the choice Memphis would be Music city. Viva Las Memphis!

For the next two days Naomi and I have to try and cover the 1089 miles from Memphis to Denver (Colorado). This will be the toughest drive of the whole trip and by the end of it I should be fluent in Spanish and skilled enough to drive for Ferrari in the next Formula 1 Grand Prix. We'll see.

Memphis to Stillwater (Oklahoma), 12 Aug 2007

Driving along in my automobile...

Woke up feeling rougher than a meerkats arse (way too much beer and blues last night). I've got 1,089 miles of solid driving ahead of me for the next two days (with night stops of course). The first bit of driving we passed straight through Bill Clinton's home state of Arkansas. Very flat landscape with farmland everywhere.

Next was Oklahoma, again flat farmland everywhere. Saw a lot of sneaky cop cars hiding from speeding cars; either on bridges, between bushes and behind advertising signs; ready to pounce on unsuspecting drivers.

We had left Memphis quite late in the day and covered 480 miles so far. By late night we found a totally cheap (literally) Motel on the outskirts of Stillwater. It was pretty rough and to strengthen my suspicion of roughness, just as we got to our room two flashing cop cars pulled up, the cops got out and hammered on the door a few doors from ours. The guy they were after was promptly dragged out and his room and pickup truck searched (I swiftly hid my Swiss Army Knife...just in case).

Finding petrol, food or a motel is a doddle. Every thirty or so miles there's always a cluster of shops (McDonald's, KFC, Subway and Taco Bells) and motels (Motel 6, Super 8 or Comfort Inn). It's a bit sad to see that in the towns there are hardly any convenience stores or diners, as fast food chains and Wal-Mart have taken over everything. Tomorrow another 600 miles to cover. Bed bugs be gone!

Stillwater (Oklahoma) to Bennett (Colorado), 13 Aug 2007

2-4-6-8... never too late

Bed bugs have been at it again, this time feasting only on my feet. I'm getting used to it now and my body seems to be toughening up. Bought a king-sized coffee (no really...it was huge) to keep me wide-eyed and bushy tailed for the next 600 miles of wide-open road.

As always, very smooth going on the roads. Bit pissed off I haven't found the cruise control for this spinky car yet. The 500 page user manual promises there is a cruise control but doesn't specify where. I'm a bit nervous about pressing any more buttons for fear of putting the seat heater and hot air on permanent blast.

The temperature outside was a steady 108F. God bless air-con. Very uneventful drive but we're just short of the 1,090-mile goal. Altogether we have clocked 2,400 miles. Just another 2,000 to go until San Francisco.

I have decided to stop listening to my Spanish CD's during long drives. If I ever suffered from Insomnia these CD's would be my medicine. Michelle Thomas's droning voice puts me straight to sleep after 10 minutes. Also worth noting; it's not Naomi's soundtrack of choice for a road trip. Lessons will continue on shorter drives and when there are plentiful Red Bull supplies.

Can't wait for tomorrow. A short drive past Denver then two days of hiking in the Rockies where eye-popping scenery, waterfalls and the Colorado River await.

Estes Park, Colorado (Rockies), 14 Aug 2007

those simple 'bear' necessities, forget about your worries and your strife

Very early rise today to finish the drive to the Rockies. Arrived at Estes Park (the main base for hiking into the national park) and drove around for an hour looking for cheap accommodation. Very scarce as this is a proper holiday resort destination. Finally, we found a budget motel and a room. Quite rough and poky but at a budget price, but who cares.

Like a true Aquarian, the rivers and waterfalls were my mission so we drove into the Rockies ($15 entrance). Parked up and went for a beautiful 7-hour hike. It was bloody hard work and uphill all the way but well worth it. Went through the forests, crossed rivers and saw some great waterfalls (Copeland Falls and Calypso Cascades).

As is always my habit when I'm near water, I had to jump in. Big mistake, as I forgot to check the temperature. The water was Freeeeeezing (with a capital FREEE). As swiftly as I jumped in, I jumped straight out again before I lost all feeling in my body.

Saw some crazy chipmunks darting all over the place, some decent looking squirrels (not the mangy kind seen in London's Hyde Park) and some colourful birds (blue with Mohican hairdos, and a big red-breasted one with a pointy hairdo). Halfway through the hike I saw a few signs to keep a lookout for bears ...and mountain lions!? (Sweet Jesus!).

So, Swiss Army Knife and a long walking stick in hand I continued, telling Naomi to use me as a bear shield if needs be. In the end the most dangerous animal I saw all day was a scruffy looking chipmunk with a bit of an attitude who gave me some backchat and a dirty look.

Taking it easy tonight after the long hike. Dinner was a lazy Chinese take away and watching TV in our Motel room (haven't seen TV for a week now ...not a bad thing really). Tomorrow it's either rafting on the Colorado River or a long trek to a secluded lake.

On a side note the people of Colorado are well friendly but I do smile when I hear them talk as it sounds suspiciously like the South Park accent (Drugs are bad ...hokay!). Need to research this further...

Estes Park, Colorado (the Rockies), 15 Aug 2007

There's a Moose in my Hoose...

(Sigh) What a beautiful place the Rockies are. Went for a slow and long early morning drive, stopping at some spectacular points. Felt a touch of altitude sickness (headaches and nausea). I'd better get used to high altitudes for Central and South America. I'm sure I'll be able to use a certain artificial stimulant to keep me going in those parts. Reached the highest driveable point in the USA (3,700 metres). What a view. Photos don't really do it justice though.

Made the mistake of not checking my petrol consumption (mountain roads really drain the petrol) so halfway across the mountain we were on empty. Luckily, we could coast all the way down to a small town on the other side called Grand Lake and fill up. Not so lucky for me was that the petrol was $1 pricier per gallon here than anywhere else. Lesson learned.

Saw a bit more wildlife today: moose, a hawk, beaver (nice beaver...) and millions of chipmunks. Today was a day of lots of smaller treks rather than a big one. Followed the Colorado river for a few hours (right at the source of it). I even made a feeble attempt at a swim in it but after losing feeling in my feet thought better of it. Then walked through some beautiful forest and came across yet more great waterfalls. Nothing like the rumbling sounds of a waterfall for an Aquarian to meditate and gather his thoughts. Easy, chilled night tonight as we reflected on the busy day.

I'll be sad to leave here as it really is a beautiful place but there is a long drive (roughly 400 miles) to Arches National Park in Utah to do tomorrow.

Moab (Utah), 16 Aug 2007

Goldfinger...

Late rise today because my legs were so sore they just didn't want to get up. Long scenic drive out of the Rockies. The route we took (Interstate 70 West) is the most scenic but difficult drive so far. Very winding and steep roads but worth every minute of it.

Stopped off at a place called Silver Throne for a feast of a lunch for the princely sum of $5.50 (corned beef hash, hash browns, 2 eggs and 4 pancakes ...Jesus my guts are going to regret that one). Nice resort town here and in the winter it's probably very packed.

Further up the road is the famous Aspen ski resort for the rich and famous. I'm noticing a dramatic change in the landscape from mountainous forests and green valley's to desolate stretches with red rocks and loose shrubbery. Starting to look like a place for Cowboys (no, not like my mate Arthur the plasterer ...proper Cowboys). Saw a few Cowboys at a petrol station in full gear. Full boots, pearl encrusted shirt and huuuuuge brimmed hat; looked kind of cool.

Finally crossed the state border from Colorado to Utah, the original home of the Ute tribe of Native Americans. I decided to leave the Interstate for the rest of the drive (can get a bit boring after five hours driving) and was lucky enough to pick a beautiful drive that followed the Colorado River. This was extra special as we had just seen the river at its source only yesterday and also cut through red rock canyons (nice).

Arrived in the tourist magnet town of Moab quite late and spent the next hour looking for cheap lodgings. No easy task as it was peak season and it seemed we had arrived just when two million Italian tourists had decided to descend on here (lots of ciao bellas and prontos in the air).

Finally found a great little motel called the Inca Motel. Had a smoke and a chat with the owner and it seems a lot of the family run Motels are being bought out by big chain Motels (Super 8, Motel 6, Holiday Inn) and then closed down. So from now on I'm boycotting the greedy chains and sticking to the smaller ones (well, not unless I'm desperate anyway).

Dinner was enjoyed at the kind of place I had really been looking for (unsuccessfully so far). A good, old-fashioned American diner with ample seating and good, cheap food. Got a steak, salad, potatoes, bun and coke for $5.99 (God bless the diner). Very hard to find them anymore because there are McDonald's, KFC's, Burger King's, Subway's and Taco Bell's everywhere (no really, they are everywhere).

Had a late night swim in the outdoor pool and was splashing around when I realised the pool was directly outside the main windows of a packed out restaurant full of staring tourists having dinner. A bit of muscle flexing, five press-ups and I quickly scampered out of there.

Tomorrow there's a lot to see. A slow drive through Arches National Park then onto Monument Valley and finally on to the Grand Canyon to find lodgings.

Gray Mountain, 17 Aug 2007

I was born...under a wandering star

Early rise as there's plenty of driving and loads to see today. First stop was Arches National park with its amazing natural rock formations that all look like arches. Sadly, the place was totally packed out with traffic jams just like a Monday morning on the North Circular.

My patience ran out so that part was cut short. The thing is everywhere you drive round here are amazing rock formations, so I wasn't that gutted about missing out on Arches.

Next stop was the Mexican Hat Formation. Really amazing how this huge rock has been naturally formed into what looks like a huge hat balanced on a body.

Then another 130 miles to Monument Valley and crossing from Utah into Arizona. Wow, the rocks here and the whole landscape is just brilliant. Reminded me so much of the Western films where the Cowboys would ride off into the desert.

Although this area is a huge tourist trap, (I think the Italians followed me from Moab) it's easy to escape the crowds. This area is Navajo country and you can see it's more tribal than anywhere else.

Stopped off to have a look at some Navajo curios and had a chat with a local Native American guy. He said this is Pow Wow season and every two weeks until October all the Navajo people travel around to drink, smoke and generally have a good time. At this point, I was dying to get invited to a pow wow, especially as it was due this very weekend (sadly never happened ...gutted). Oh, and