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    The Heritage of Dress Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
    The Heritage of Dress Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
    The Heritage of Dress Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
    Ebook470 pages5 hours

    The Heritage of Dress Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

    By Wilfred Mark Webb

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    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherArchive Classics
    Release dateNov 15, 2013
    The Heritage of Dress Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

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      Book preview

      The Heritage of Dress Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes - Wilfred Mark Webb

      The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Heritage of Dress, by Wilfred Mark Webb

      This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with

      almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or

      re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included

      with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org

      Title: The Heritage of Dress

             Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

      Author: Wilfred Mark Webb

      Release Date: May 10, 2013 [EBook #42682]

      Language: English

      *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HERITAGE OF DRESS ***

      Produced by eagkw, Chris Curnow, Google Print and the

      Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net

      (This file was produced from images generously made

      available by The Internet Archive)

      THE HERITAGE OF DRESS

      Very early man in Java.

      (Chapter II.)

      PLATE I.

      THE HERITAGE

      OF DRESS

      BEING NOTES ON THE HISTORY

      AND EVOLUTION OF CLOTHES

      BY

      WILFRED MARK WEBB

      FELLOW OF THE LINNEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON

      CURATOR OF ETON COLLEGE MUSEUM

      WITH ELEVEN PLATES

      AND ONE HUNDRED AND SIXTY-NINE FIGURES IN THE TEXT

      LONDON

      E. GRANT RICHARDS

      1907

      TO MY WIFE

      HILDA E. WEBB

      PREFACE

      It would be difficult to find a subject of more universal interest than that of dress, and hosts of books have been written which deal with the attire that has been adopted at different times and by various nations or social classes. The ornamental and artistic sides of the question have also received much consideration, but the volumes that have appeared serve chiefly as works of reference. The present book aims at being of more immediate interest and usefulness; it starts with things as they are, and is really a popular contribution to the natural history of man.

      On all sides the advantages of observation and the need for the nature-study method in education are being rightly urged, but there is a tendency to narrow the purview. Anything in our environment is worthy of notice, and though attention is well directed towards that which is least artificial, we should not leave man and his works altogether on one side. There is material for observation, research, and deduction, even in a bowler hat and a cut-away coat.

      One of the pleasantest features in connection with the making of this book has been the kind and ready help which I have received from all sides. Here and there throughout the text the names of friends and correspondents who have given their assistance have been mentioned. To these I offer my hearty thanks, as well as to the following, who with suggestions, information, or with material for illustrations, have contributed in no small way to the interest of the book: Messrs. Fownes Brothers & Company, Mr. Allan A. Hooke, Mr. W. S. Ward, Mr. Karl, of Messrs. Nathan & Company, Messrs. Tress & Company, Messrs. Lincoln & Bennett, Mr. M. D. Hill, the Rev. A. W. Upcott, Head Master of Christ’s Hospital, Miss Clark, Miss Hodgson, the Rev. R. Ashington Bullen, Mr. Henry Miller, of the Church Association, Mr. Ravenscroft, of Messrs. Ede Sons & Ravenscroft, Mr. Paley Baildon, Mr. George Hertslet, of the Lord Chamberlain’s Office, Messrs. Wilkinson & Company, Mr. C. M. Mühlberg, Mr. W. S. Parker, of Messrs. Debenhams, Ltd., Capt. H. Trench, Major J. W. Mallet, of the Army and Navy Gazette, Mr. Basil White, of Messrs. Hawkes & Company, Mr. W. H. Jesson, Messrs. Souter & Company, Mr. William Lawrence, Mr. Heather Bigg, Dr. J. Cantlie, and the Rt. Hon. Viscountess Harberton.

      A glance at the bibliography, which is given on pages 363-7, will show the principal books and papers to which reference has been made.

      In connection with the illustrations, special thanks must be given to Monsieur Maurice Sand, the Editor of the Review of the University of Brussels, for his kind permission to reproduce a number of the figures used to illustrate a translation of Sir George Darwin’s article. These are Figures 14, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 26, 27, 30, 31, 33, 46, 48, 62, 63, and 82. Acknowledgments are due to Mr. St. John Hope for Figures 86-8, to Messrs. A. & C. Black for Figures 123 and 124 and 132 and 133, and to Messrs. Prewett & Co. for Figures 111 and 112.

      For the original of Plate II, I am indebted to the kindness of Captain R. Ford, of Plate III to Mr. Henry Stevens; Plate IV has been taken from a brass rubbing in Rugby School Museum, through the kind offices of Mr. J. M. Hardwich. I have to thank Mr. R. Bamber for the original of Plate VIII, which was obtained through his instrumentality. Figure B of Plate IX was kindly contributed by the Rev. A. W. Upcott, Head Master of Christ’s Hospital, and Figures B and C on Plate X were copied from Moseley’s Voyage of the ‘Challenger,’ by the kind permission of Mr. John Murray, while Figure D is due to the courtesy of General Robley. Plate XI is reprinted from The Reliquary, by the kind permission of Messrs. Bemrose and Sons, and the source of other illustrations is acknowledged beneath them, while the classic collection of pictures which were brought together by the late Mr. F. W. Fairholt to illustrate his Costume in England has proved, as will be seen, of the utmost service.

      In conclusion, I have much pleasure in calling attention to the time and care which Mr. W. J. Webb has expended upon the figures, which are a feature of the book; and I must mention the willing help which I have been afforded in a number of details by Miss Amy Astbury and Mr. Bernard Weaver.

      WILFRED MARK WEBB.

      Odstock, Hanwell,

      November, 1907.

      CONTENTS

      LIST OF PLATES

      LIST OF FIGURES

      I

      THE THRALL OF DRESS

      THE PRINCIPLES OF EVOLUTION APPLIED TO CLOTHES

      The numbers in the text refer to a bibliography at the end of the book

      Unluckily, perhaps, we are born naked and helpless, but no sooner do we come into the world than we are provided with body-guards in the shape of clothes. In consequence, our social position is made manifest. Our vanity is flattered at the same time that our modesty is assured. On the other hand, however, our skin may be chafed, our hair worn away, and, should our equipment strictly follow the dictates of the Goddess Fashion, our bodies may even be deformed and our lives shortened. Moreover, there are other penalties to be paid; we are kept warm in summer as well as in winter, the purchase of our attire may entail the spending of much money, while the mere donning and doffing of our clothes gives rise to a prodigious waste of time.

      Even tramps have at intervals to replace the rags which cover them, and while, for all practical purposes, every one else takes off his clothes when going to bed and puts them on again when getting up, many of those who are at work in the daytime dress for dinner in the evening.

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