Spice is often the party girl, the loud, bold, exuberant element in the mix,” says food writer Eleanor Ford in her new book A Whisper of Cardamom. “There is also another art, more subtle yet equally seductive. In sweet cookery, spice can provide a delicate fragrance, hard to put your finger on but one that gives backbone to a dish.”
Ford lives in London but draws inpiration from her world travels. Described by Yotam Ottolenghi as a “culinary detective”, she gives talks on spice around the globe. For her latest book she explores how spice lends dimension to desserts. She writes, “Flavours can be enhanced by a thoughtful addition from the spice cupboard, making chocolate more chocolaty and fruit taste more of itself. Added not in shouts but in whispers, an intrigue of spice deepens allure.”
Garam masala and chocolate chunk cookies
MAKES 18-20 COOKIES
“The best, squidgiest cookies enforce patience, as you need to rest the dough overnight to allow the flour to fully hydrate and the flavours develop,” says Ford. “Cook in batches as needed, as they are arguably at their finest warm from the oven while the kitchen
