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have climbed Kili twice, just before and soon after my 50th birthday. Both were spectacular experiences. The final ascent in the dark was the only section that I found really challenging. On my first climb — with ten work colleagues, eight of us reaching the top — we took the Marangu route, staying in huts. On the second, my two daughters and I trekked the Rongai route, which was preferable because there were fewer people

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