“FOOD WAS A BIG PART OF MY CHILDHOOD.”
This sentiment, expressed by foragercook Roushanna Gray in “Wild at Heart” (p 56), or a variation of it, appears in at least six different places in this issue. Sierra Leone-born author and cook Mariama “Maria” Bradford refers to it repeatedly in her inspirational cookbook Sweet Salone (p 102).
And at least four out of five of the chefs whose restaurants I was lucky enough to experience on my gastromanic reunion