Call it ‘everyday’ or ‘today’. There are many ways of putting it but they all mean the same thing: being in the ‘here and now’, in the present moment, navigating by sight, which is the only thing we can, more or less, afford. In the current times, the present is the one thing we can be certain of, the day ahead of us, one step at a time towards the evening, until the next day comes. Perhaps it is no wonder that various collections do not make their customary separation between daywear and eveningwear, but instead let one merge into the other. Without questioning it too much, the fashion industry has understood that this is the way things are going. That what counts is being comfortable in your clothes, or that you can be cool and sexy in relaxed casual wear, because the key to everything is attitude, that ‘je ne sais quoi’ that French women know so well. So, the trend opens up to clothing that teams classic and which has nevertheless established itself as a trend, can be interpreted in the same way: living in the present helps us prepare for the future. It is not about philosophising but instead partly exorcising and partly learning to adjust, to master the means at our disposal in order to put them to good use later on. The shows stayed away from alien or other-worldly looks, instead sticking to more realistic and manageable pieces: metallic sheen, glossy or iridescent effects, sharp lines, alongside oversize, cosy volumes. If our final trend could be a movie, it would be called after its intrepid and slightly wild heroine, a bohemian cowgirl dressed in ruches and fringes, capes and cloaks, denim (or leather) and big boots. Yes, it is a movie we have seen before but we do not mind seeing it again, because it makes us nostalgic about a time, i.e. the ’70s or ’80s, when there was real hope for the future. A mixture of classic elegance and revolutionary spirit, an easy and understated wardrobe which, in the end, is what we need nowadays.
WOMEN COLLECTIONS A/W 2024.25
Apr 04, 2024
6 minutes
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