In the realm of timekeeping, wristwatches reign supreme as the embodiment of romance. They require dials that often rival the case itself in size, a necessity to ensure the clarity of time-telling. But the dial is far more than a mere functional component. It is the defining element that can elevate an ordinary watch into a captivating work of art. An exceptional watch may boast intricate mechanics and impeccable craftsmanship, yet without a dial that meets the lofty standards of aesthetics, it falls short of enchanting our sensibilities. Conversely, an unassuming daily companion can transcend into an object of fascination when adorned with a beautifully crafted dial.
The modern age has granted us the privilege of accessing well-crafted watch dials at remarkably affordable price points. Lacquer finishes, captivating sunray brushed patterns, intricate guilloché, and a plethora of ornate designs are all within reach. Japanese watches, in particular, have made a name for themselves by offering intricate dials, resplendent with vibrant colors and elaborate patterns, at prices that don’t burden the wallet. However, as one delves deeper into their collection and explores the myriad dial varieties, they will invariably encounter the revered word: enamel.
The rarity of enamel in contemporary watchmaking has rendered it somewhat enigmatic to many enthusiasts. It was once a commonly practiced art before other industrial methods of mass production and the insatiable chase for maximum profit took over. Typically reserved for watches that come with a hefty price tag, enamel retains an air of mystery. For instance, what are the differences between cloisonné, champlevé and flinqué enamel? Even more fundamental questions, such as understanding the basics of grand feu enamel or discerning the elements that define a high quality enamel dial worthy of its price, can be a daunting endeavor.
Hence, we invite you to embark on an immersive journey into the captivating realm of enameling. Recently, our team had the opportunity to visit an enamel dial making facility in Switzerland, and we are thrilled to unveil the secrets surrounding this intricate art form. In this exploration, we will delve into what enameling is, how it is made, how to evaluate its quality, and discover the artisans who create the finest enamel dials across various price ranges today.
WHAT ARE ENAMEL DIALS?
An art with a history spanning millennia, enamel, at its core, is a fusion of painting and firing techniques. It yields a hard, luminous layer of paint, exhibiting a distinctive sheen that emanates a warm and lustrous glow. Enamel may present itself in various forms, from transparent and opaque to opalescent, and it can integrate with techniques like engraving, painting or wire framing, some of which are exclusive to the world of horology.
What makes enamel particularly intriguing in its application to watchmaking is the scale. Dials are remarkably small compared to enameled cases or vases, yet they capture the traditional complexity and beauty of this art. Importantly, an enameled piece is not only visually stunning but also highly durable; it doesn’t age or tarnish, and it can even be safely cleaned in an ultrasonic bath without any adverse effects.
But what exactly is enamel, and how does it differ from glass or porcelain? Despite its primary composition being silica, enamel stands apart as a specialized type of glass. It requires specific techniques and a fusing process to adhere it to a baseplate, typically made of metal. While fusing might seem like a straightforward task, there’s some science involved.
Here’s the dilemma: the typical firing temperature of glass is north of 1,300 degrees Celsius, but the melting point of common enamel baseplates made of metals such as copper and gold is around 1,000 degrees Celsius. Therefore, there needs to be a “magic” to lower the firing temperature to avoid the melting of the baseplate in the fusion process while still retaining the beautiful vibrant look of colorful glass. To
