Jimi Famurewa reviews the Bear: Delicious, but who wants a chef’s counter in a pub?
Setting the atmosphere of a modern pub is increasingly complex; a delicate, compromised dance of punter expectation, gastronomic seriousness and some nebulous shared idea of what constitutes A Proper Boozer. Pool tables and dart boards are ghettoised to back rooms. Children are gently cattle-prodded out after 8pm. Football is shown on mute as recompense to those that hate it.
Still, I think the Bear in is the first time I can remember an
