What is bias?
Also known as ‘cut on the cross’, cutting a garment on the bias refers to the grain at which the garment is cut. This is 45 degrees between the lengthwise and crosswise grains of the fabric. The lengthwise grain (warp threads) of the fabric runs parallel to the selvedge and the crosswise grain (weft threads) runs perpendicular to the selvedge. See diagram 1.
The history of bias-cut garments
The true queen behind the method of bias-cut garments was Madeleine Vionnet in the early 1900s. Much to society’s disgust, Vionnet left behind the trend of restrictive corseted undergarments and made bias-cut clothing that sheathed beautiful figures. It took a while before her ideas and methods were accepted and became high fashion. With time, these were applauded due to the
