Icon is a big word. Impactful, powerful and resolute. But it is not immutable, fashion influences perceptions of quality just as quality, to a great extent, determines fashionability.
The Langtons Classification is the barometer of it all when it comes to Australian wine. Solely based on consumer demand in the secondary market and the pricing that dictates, the Classification is dictated by consumer demand alone. There are no arbiters of taste in the form of a tasting panel, group of critics, Masters of Wine or anything else.