Los Angeles Times

Mystery among the vines: Why is the FBI probing some of Napa Valley's fanciest wineries?

A welcome sign greets visitors along St. Helena Highway, outside Napa, California, in the storied Napa Valley on Thursday, Feb. 4, 2021.

ST. HELENA, Calif. — Highway 29 winds along the floor of the Napa Valley through Yountville and St. Helena and up into Calistoga, passing by vineyards that produce some of the most celebrated and expensive wines in the world.

The road, lined with rows of grapevines planted along sun-dappled hills, is justly famous for its stunning beauty — and the stunning number of Michelin-rated restaurants, spas and boutique inns that have popped up among the vineyards.

And lately, for locals anyway, it is also the source of a pressing mystery: Why have so many of the fancy wineries along this road — and their rich and powerful owners — been named in federal subpoenas that were served late last year on Napa County?

"Please provide any and all documents relating to the following individuals, entities, and/or projects," one subpoena says, before unspooling a roster that reads more like a high-end tourist brochure than what is normally found in a court docket.

Among the glittering names whose, known for its bold cabernets and luxe St. Helena winery with a towering statue of a silver rabbit. , a former U.S. ambassador to Austria, is also named, as is her husband, , a former part-owner of the Dallas Cowboys whose art collection is so revered that portions went on loan to the Jeu de Paume arts center in Paris.

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