THIS JOURNEY BEGAN as an opportunity for me to work through some of my harder-to-tick-off bucket list items – swimming with whale sharks, walking with Komodo dragons, snorkelling Pink Beach, observing the famed lekking of birds of paradise, and exploring the insta-worthy blue waters of Raja Ampat.
But Heritage Expedition’s 19-day Indonesian Explorer voyage quickly became a life-changing re-education about the natural world. Spanning both the Wallace and Weber lines that mark the distribution of species between Australia, Papua
