I’M CLIMBING HAND-OVER-HAND up a muddy, twisted tree-rooted hillside, grabbing vines to swing up and over logs dotted with lurid funghi. Dappled light filters through the rainforest canopy. One last moss-covered mound and there it is laid out before me: the neon-bright turquoise and emerald waters of the Wayag Lagoon dotted with jungle-topped limestone karst islands descending into the translucent depths. This is the jewel of Indonesia’s remote Raja Ampat archipelago, the bullseye of marine biodiversity on the planet, and it is spectacular.
Climbing Mt Pindito