TASTED BLIND & NON-BLIND
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Clos des Papes, Blanc 96
£50-£55 (ib) Lay &Wheeler, Mann Fine Wine, NY Wines
Open aromas of dried pears, almost slightly hoppy. Full and rich, but good acidity and a lovely mineral touch despite being a big, powerful vintage. It’s not the most fine and elegant, but will be very good in time. The yield was down 50% this year due to hail. It’s worth waiting for this vintage, it will be wonderfully full and luxurious in time. Equal parts Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Piquepoul and Picardan. No malolactic fermentation. Organic. Drink 2029-2045 Alcohol 15%
1 SOUTHERN RHONE WHITE WINE OF THE VINTAGE Domaine de la Solitude, Vin de la Solitude Blanc 96
POA Dreyfus Ashby
Restrained aromatics yet a full palate with great textural wealth. Not as obviously oaky as the domaine’s other cuvées, this has interesting grain and texture. Powerful, saline, long and well balanced despite its richness and flamboyance. Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc with 10% each of Bourboulenc, Clairette Rose and Piquepoul Blanc. The third vintage of this cuvée, it’s already one of the most exciting white Châteauneufs available. Organic. Drink 2024-2034 Alcohol 13.5%
2 UNDER THE RADAR Domaine André Mathieu, Vin di Felibre Blanc 94
Floral nose, soft and silky on the palate. Alight oiliness with a little mineral glint helps bring freshness. It’s extremely well balanced, and is one of the better white Châteauneufs this year. Poached pear flavours linger underneath the wellintegrated oak. Drink 2024-2029 Alc 14%
TOP VALUE Château La Nerthe, Blanc 93
Buttered popcorn and tobacco leaf
