1 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Château de Vaudieu, Les Vieilles Roussanne 99
£95.99 Liberty Wines Richly aromatic, with deep pear and a touch of yellow melon. Lightly honeyed on the nose, more noticeably so on the palate, sweet oak spice melding with sappy acidity. Powerful in flavour but with great focus, clarity and freshness; this has huge length, without any excessive body. Good now, will be better in time. Grown on limestone soils, aged in barriques, 50% of which are new. Just 2,700 bottles produced. Drink 2023-2040 Alcohol 14.9%
2 SOUTHERN RHONE WHITE WINE OF THE VINTAGE Domaine de Beaurenard, Boisrenard Blanc 99
£76 Tannico †Nectarine fruit inlaid with a touch of fresh coconut. Full-bodied, generous and rounded, without any excessive oak – it’s matured mostly in foudre and some old barriques. Perfectly judged, well balanced and very long. It has great presence and energy, but nothing overt. Predominantly Grenache Noir with Clairette Rose, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Picardan, Picpoul Blanc and Picpoul Gris. 6,000 bottles produced. Biodynamic. Drink 2023-2040 Alc 14%
KEY PRODUCER Château de Beaucastel, Vieilles Vignes Roussanne 98
£100 (ib)-£160 Cru, Goedhuis & Co, Millésima Great concentration this year, making for a really intense, sappy Roussanne; pear tarte tatin flavours alongside intense cigar tobacco, cedar and sandalwood. Dense and concentrated, it’s weightier than the 2020 vintage, and riper and denser than most 2021 Châteauneuf blancs. Huge length. The oaking is robust and shows quite strongly, so give this time. All aged in oak, half new, half second-year, mostly demi-muids. Biodynamic. Drink 2024-2034
KEY PRODUCER Domaine de la Janasse, Prestige Blanc 98
£53-£56 (ib) Crop & Vine, Cru, Ideal Wine Co, Starling Wines, The Great Wine Co, VinQuinn Full-bodied and just a touch oily. The oak is forthright, and this has great concentration and huge power before a driving, saline finish. Almost too intense
