New Zealand Listener

Seductive scents

Some white wines, like chardonnay, impress with their substantial body and subtle, complex flavours. Others, the moment you stick your nose in the glass, can trigger the response, “Wow!”

These “aromatic” white wine varieties are exemplified by gewürztraminer, a high-impact wine, at its best arrestingly perfumed and spicy. Riesling, too, can unfurl a soaring array of lemony, appley, limey, peachy scents. Bottle ageing lets it acquire a multi-faceted, toasty, honeyed richness.

Albarino, grüner veltliner and viognier are also prized for their aromatic intensity. Pinot gris and sauvignon blanc can be enticingly aromatic, especially in our cooler winegrowing regions, but are big enough to merit their own, separate features in the Listener.

Askerne Hawke’s Bay Viognier 2022

Full of personality, this well-rounded wine was estate-grown, hand-picked and barrel-aged. Fragrant, mouthfilling and sweetfruited, it has generous, peachy, slightly spicy flavours, gently seasoned with toasty oak, good complexity, and a soft, creamy-smooth finish. (14% alc/vol) $27

Blackenbrook Vineyard Nelson Gewürztraminer 2023

This invitingly perfumed wine was estate-grown at Tasman, hand-picked and mostly handled in tanks (5% was barrel-aged). Pale

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