At the height of the pandemic, the restaurateurs and shopkeepers of Tsukiji market in Tokyo must have dreamed of days like these. Columns of visitors shuffle along the narrow streets, pausing to inspect hand-forged kitchen knives and tsukemono pickles, and to sip gratis samples of green tea. Restaurants tempt the crowd with sticks of grilled wagyu and boiled crab legs.
But signs in English implore
