There are elephants, and then there are Elephants. I discover this as I sit by a waterhole in Tsavo's Mbulia Conservancy, watching a group of eleven bulls taking a mud bath. One lounges in the ooze like a dumpling in gravy, occasionally spraying himself with trunkfuls of sludge. Two more stand nearby, throwing clouds of cayenne-coloured dust over their backs, while a fourth takes an invigorating scratch against a tree stump.
But these are no ordinary elephants: taller, leaner and more powerful than any I've seen before in Uganda or Tanzania, with tusks over a metre long, ears the size of tractor wheels, and tiny sunken eyes
