ISLAND CALM
As the seagull flies, the needle end of the Ras Luale spit is barely 2.5km from mainland Tanzania, off the coast of Mbegani. Few people are able to point it out on a map, until you mention that this 9kmlong island reserve juts out into the Indian Ocean between Bagamoyo and Zanzibar.
Arriving by boat hints at what is to follow: sun-drenched days, salty lips, the breeze whipping hair into my face. At high tide, the spit transforms into three islands with crescent-shaped, virgin beaches. Other than a handful of fellow guests, there is no one else here. The double-storey, A-frame bandas of Lazy Lagoon Lodge disappear into the luscious mahogany and mangrove vegetation that is home to bushbabies, genets, vervet monkeys and