The best taverna in Crete has been built on a rocky outcrop where the Aradena Gorge spills out to the Mediterranean. The arid cliffs stand sentinel over a glassy aquamarine bay. Each morning the sun chairs are laid out on Marmara’s pebble beach, slowly filling as hikers make their way out of the gorge; their swim to be chased by one of the best lunches on the island. There are only two ways into this gustatory paradise: by boat or by foot.
Crete is an island that rewards the hiker, with trails that zigzag all over. At 240 kilometres from east to west, it’s the largest island in Greece and
