t was raining the night I arrived in Bali. Swollen raindrops rippled in the koi pond that bordered the entrance to my room; the two orange residents calmly circling beneath the surface. It was a change of pace from the few hours that had preceded – my flight (Virgin Australia flies daily from major cities to Denpasar International Airport) landed well after peak hour, but the late-night streets still bustled with flashes of brake lights and blinkers, swerving motorcycles and honking car horns – friendly courtesy beeps, I learned, rather than the somewhat more aggressive
