STANDING IN FRONT of Dairyland Old-Fashioned Frozen Custard & Hamburgers in Milwaukee, chef and co-owner Kurt Fogle tells me with a calm, matter-of-fact confidence, “Milwaukee is the center of the universe for quality cheeseburgers.” His Midwest politeness then kicks in and he quickly adds, “No off ense to anyone else.”
He’s talking about cheeseburgers, but he could easily be talking about cheese curds, a signature side dish at the restaurant he co-owns with fellow chef Joe McCormick. “Kurt and I are cosmically aligned kindred spirits,” McCormick says.
The pair, both born and raised in Wisconsin, came up cooking in fine-dining restaurants in cities from Chicago to New York. After growing tired of working for other people, they returned to Wisconsin and to the popular foods of
