AS a child, there was something so exciting about the mystery bumps and curves of my stuffed Christmas stocking, tinged with the anticipation of reaching in my hand and pulling out all the tightly packed treats. However, one thing never changed: at the very bottom, pressed into the toe, there was always a familiar plump little bulge: a sweet, juicy satsuma.
Nothing looks and smells more like Christ-mas than orange zest and spices, from delicate slices of dried orange woven into door wreaths and tree decorations to Christingles burning brightly in church. It might seem baffling that this non-native species should be such a key component of a British Christmas, but
