Cabbage, a member of the botanical species Brassica oleracea, is usually dismissed as the frumpy cousin of its more fetching and culinarily successful relatives brussels sprouts and cauliflower. But this large green sphere has much to offer: It’s nutritious; costs next to nothing; is readily available year-round; can be held for long periods in the refrigerator; and, just like its species mates, has the potential for extreme deliciousness. Certainly cabbage is a worthy and dependable denizen of the crisper drawer, and I suspected that—given a chance—it could be downright glamorous.
It was one of cabbage’s kin that inspired the notion. Years ago, I’d developed a simple and effective method for roasting brussels sprouts: I halved each one and tumbled them with oil and seasoning; spread
