National Geographic Traveller Food

TROMSØ

SEA FOOD SPECIAL FISKEKOMPANIET

During Tromsø’s evocative midwinter nights, two very different worlds exist alongside each other. Outdoors, snowflakes drift to the ground as shadowy figures shuffle under the glow of streetlamps, their heads bowed as if a Lowry painting has sprung to life. Indoors, the warmth and colour is overwhelming, and smiles come easily when refuge is taken. My thaw takes place at Fiskekompaniet (‘The Fishing Company’), a waterside seafood restaurant with windows that stretch to the ceiling, offering a sublime view across the harbour. As evening falls, distant lights flare from a ghostly hillside and the spindly, lit-up legs of the Tromsø Bridge spider across a vast fjord. The frozen night lends an ethereal stillness to the scene.

Fiskekompaniet has been serving up north Norwegian seafood since 1996, though its contemporary decor and navy, brown and gold colour scheme feel very modern. In a smart spot like this, it’s easy to forget that I’m sitting more than 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle. But despite its latitude and unforgiving climate, quality regional produce

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