ARLY IN THE MORNING, when chickens are hustling to get out of their coop and pelicans start clacking on a billabong, Matt and Lentil Purbrick of Grown & Gathered get up to start their day. On a three-acre patch in the middle of Tahbilk Estate Winery, Matt and Lentil grow organic food and flowers on land that’s been in his family since the 1920s. His parents still live on the estate, as does his grandmother, whose house was built in 1939 for Matt’s great-grandfather’s mother, Dorothy. A few years ago, Matt came back from 18 months of travelling and, needing to get away from life behind an office desk, decided to try his hand at farming. “I quickly figured out that
