For one Swiss family, a life spent on the river
Pan Thurneysen, tanned, lean, and ponytailed, bends over the side of the vessel he helms, one of the four small current-powered rope ferries that ply the Rhine River in Basel, Switzerland. He’s scooping a bowl of water for a boarding passenger – something he does for all dogs making the crossing with their owners.
Setting it on the wooden deck, he scratches the pooch behind the ears, greeting him in the local Swiss dialect. He then segues effortlessly into another language to engage with his
