SYDNEY
A new wave of Sydney restaurants is refusing to be tied to a single cuisine. Instead, these gastronomically nonmonogamous openings are incorporating delicious techniques without borders. In Surry Hills, Itō takes up two levels in the former Cuckoo Callay site. Inside, you’ll find chef Erik Ortolani (ex-Cho Cho San) doing clever takes on Japanese-meets-European snacks. Gyoza wrappers are repurposed as delicate ravioli parcels, piped with rich duck meat and served with a brown butter sauce, undercut by ponzu and sansho pepper; while yellowfin tuna is both diced finely and sliced and served neatly across a light bread cracker, seasoned with lime and salty bottarga. The room is elegant and intimate yet playful and bright, and will entice you to linger longer. Good news since the meal wraps ups with airy-light bitter-sweet mousse perfumed by hojicha (tea) with golden orbs of custard-filled doughnuts; joined by sake and Whisky Highballs.
In the CBD, chef Khanh Nguyen has taken on a broad Asian brief at Co-owners Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt (who are already behind an impressive swag of Sydney stalwarts including Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Monopole, Yellow, Cirrus and Brasserie 1930) lured Nguyen back to Sydney for the executive chef role. Nguyen, who worked with The Bentley team seven years ago, is happy to return to the fold. “They’ve both been amazing mentors for me and I’m so excited to work alongside them once again.” King Clarence will take its culinary cues from China, Japan and Korea. The restaurant will boast a custom-built barbecue and grill. Plus, there will be a large live seafood tank reminiscent of Sydney’s old-school Chinese restaurants, past and present. In line with all Bentley Group venues, King Clarence will have an extensive wine program, with current Cirrus Dining sommelier Polly
