I caught the first wave of my life, I bobbed on my board next to award-winning pro surfer Jamie O’Brien, my instructor at Turtle Bay Resort on O‘ahu’s North Shore. When he identified the swell he wanted me to catch, he gave me a push. I stood up, legs and arms wobbling, and in disbelief, rode the shoulder of a small wave for what felt like five minutes (but what must have been less than
Ripple Effect
Oct 31, 2023
3 minutes
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