epicure

Under the radar

In 2004, James Suckling was invited to a blind tasting wine dinner with 10 bottles to sample. The evening turned out to contain many surprises — one of which was how a 1989 Pétrus, a 100-point wine, appeared to be the unanimously voted worst wine.

The other? A 2000 Gere Attila Kopar Cuvée, a Bordeaux blend from Hungary, emerged as a crowd favourite. “Balanced, silky, and fruity… but I had never heard of it, much less tasted it,” Suckling described. As the American wine critic’s famous line goes: “When a Hungarian red beats Pétrus in a blind tasting, you know the world of wine is a gunslinger’s

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