Decanter

KEKFRANKOS THE BLUE OF THE DANUBE

ne third of Hungary’s grapevines are red varieties, and the most important by far is Kékfrankos. Hungary grows more of this characteristically Central European grape than any other country, with 7,543ha (Austria is next with 2,630ha, where it’s better known as Blaufränkisch). Arguably Hungary has missed a trick by failing to lay claim to Kékfrankos as its own up to now, though this is changing. Research has found that it’s a cross of the promiscuous Weisser Heunisch (Gouais Blanc) with Zimmettraube Blau, and most likely originated centuries ago in old Hungarian territory (Lower Styria in today’s Slovenia). Its parentage makes it a half-sibling of noble grapes such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Furmint and Gamay among others – which gives a

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