Gourmet Traveller

Hand-forged dynasties

Andrew Leung Hong Kong Dim Sum, Melbourne, Vic

“I was the chubby one of my three brothers so I got called fei zai, which means ‘fat boy’. We didn’t get emotionally traumatised in those days!” laughs Andrew Leung of his days growing up in Melbourne’s Box Hill. His dad, Kong Choi Leung was one of the city’s first dim sum master chefs, working at classic Melbourne Chinese restaurants such as Janbo and Flower Drum after arriving in Australia in 1982. “Sometimes I’d get lost in Chinatown so I’d go into the restaurants and the chefs all knew I was Kong Choi Leung’s son. They’d call him up and say ‘Your kid’s here’ and then they’d feed me. There’d always be duck and noodles ready for me wherever I’d go.”

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