It’s a debate my wine-industry friends often have over a table of empty bottles: “Is wine art?” The romantics, usually sommeliers, will cry: “Of course, it is!” and point to epiphany wines brimming with artistry. It’s usually winemakers who counterpoint, talking about the science of fermentation and how it doesn’t seem “magical and artistic” at 3am when the grapes are in and something in the winery has broken.
But really, it’s both of